[BUILD] CAPI VP2X~500 Series~Preamp Kit~Official Support Thread

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Will do. I don't have face plates on them so I already have them labeled 1 and 2. 1 is the more questionable unit. Although, as I has mentioned earlier, both units give me pproblems. I'll upload them on Monday when I go to my studio. Thanks for your help Jeff! I can't wait for these to be working 100%. I've had them for a year now!
 
Hello Jeff, all

Hope you had a great New Year!

I have a quick question.  I messed up the t-pad on one of my VP26 builds... and in trying to desolder the item to put in a new one, I lifted some of the pads making it very difficult (if not impossible/impractical) to insert a new t-pad.

I noticed on your website you have a t-pad pcb board.  I'm curious if this is sufficient for what I need to do to replace the tpad.  If I followed instructions wiring the t-pad A, B, and C pads with the corresponding A, B, and C pads on the PCB board, would the t-pad be "backwards" if the pcb were on the opposite (front) side of the main PCB?  Or is the board supposed to be flush with the main PCB?  Mainly curious about its alignment with the L- bracket and faceplate.

I'm not sure if its an old adapter not applicable with the new builds, or what else I can do without scrapping the board altogether.

Thanks in advance,
Oren
 
As long as the t-pad and adapter PCB does not physically interfere with the main PCB, it can be placed where ever it fits. The main thing is the wiring must go to the corresponding letters.
 
It appears that all R's are placed correctly. At this point, I would recommend injecting signal and following it thru the circuit to see where the problem starts. There are some steps for doing this in the first few pages of this thread.
 
Forgive me Jeff,

Where on the Main PCB is "A, B and C" located for the wires from the tpad adapter PCB? is that the opamp's "+ and -" on the bottom, and "c" between the +/-V?

http://www.classicapi.com/catalog/images/gallery/VP26/Rev_B/VP26-Rev-B.1-scan.jpg

Thanks in advance,
Oren
 
Oh sorry, I was thinking of a previous Rev of the preamp PCB. Maybe we should see what your board looks like now. There may be some traces to repair/jumper.
 
I forgot I have a hairball audio Lola haha! I tested the ML2520 opamps I have in the vp26s and they appear to be working correctly with my Lola. I have to probe it now like you said. I can't imagine what it could be
 
Hey Jeff,

Sorry for the delay, here's the front PCB.  As you can see a few pads have been burnt, and although I haven't completely cleared the holes of solder, I hoped there would be an alternative wiring of the tpad PCB adapter so I dont have to worry about this corner of the PCB being fried or going bad in the future.

 

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Although the PCB doesn't look great, it does appear that all traces and pads are intact. Just follow this pic and wire A to A, B to B and C to C.
 

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Hi,
So Im having issues with my vp26. I have built it over the last couple of months as parts have been available and finished today, minus one knob, and the volume is VERY low even when everything is all the way up. I also finished a VP28 with all the op amps etc and was successful except for a phantom power issue (it was also a lot neater than the first). This pic shows that R1 isnt in place but it was added after the pic was taken. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
 

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Jeff, I built the op amps and I switched out the ones on my vp28 and still had the same issue. I built this a little at a time so it's very possible I missed something so I need to just revisit the build guide and check into the missing gain resistors  :-[
 
Hey guys,

It seams like my gain knob is sticking out a little too much. Anyone ever dealt with that ?

Also, I'm not so sure about the opamp. Does it look ok to you ? (pre built 2520 red dot) It doesn't seams like it's properly secured in the sockets..

 

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