All you need to remember is that TDIF is four pairs of AES (with clock/sample rate stripped) in each direction... each AES pair runs over a 75-ohm unbalanced line.
True TDIF for long runs needs to be run via 8 x 75Ω coax (4 sends, 4 returns) and of course, the pins need to be reversed at the opposing ends.
1+2 are on pin 1 (with the shield on pin 14)
3+4 are on pin 2 (with the shield on pin 15)
5+6 are on pin 2 (with the shield on pin 16)
7+8 are on pin 2 (with the shield on pin 17)
7+8 are on pin 10 (with the shield on pin 22)
5+6 are on pin 11 (with the shield on pin 23)
3+4 are on pin 12 (with the shield on pin 24)
1+2 are on pin 13 (with the shield on pin 25)
... forget which are the sends and which the returns... but run these 8 coaxes. The remaining nine pins are also wired according to the pattern that you should notice emerges: i.e. each pin at one end oes to it's mirror-image equivalent at the other end...
pin1 goes to 13, pin 14 goes to 25
pin2 goes to 12, pin 15 goes to 24
pin3 goes to 11, pin 16 goes to 23
pin4 goes to 10, pin 17 goes to 22
pin5 goes to 9, pin 18 goes to 21
pin6 goes to 8, pin 19 goes to 20
pin7 goes to 7
pin8 goes to 6, pin 20 goes to 19
pin9 goes to 5, pin 21 goes to 18
pin10 goes to 4, pin 22 goes to 17
pin11 goes to 3, pin 23 goes to 16
pin12 goes to 2, pin 24 goes to 15
pin13 goes to 1, pin 25 goes to 14
Notice that this list reads the same reading upwards as downwards...
You can make a TDIF extender by crimping a couple of D25s topgether, but swapping one so it's reversed.
The only time you hear a difference is when there's a big problem. -Forget about it.
Keith