Oscilloscope Repair Attempt

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Whoops

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Hello,
I acquired an used BK Precision 2160  Oscilloscope.

The unit powers on but there seems to be no sweep going on,
I have a fixed spot on the screen, Im sending 1K from the signal generator and the spot doesn't move with or without the 1K signal being applied to the input.
I also tested it with different test probes.

IMG_6046.jpg


I cant seem to find info on this brand, so I dont have a Service Manual.

I guess something is wrong with the Sweep circuit,
but please let me know your thoughts?

Thanks
 
Looks like the  Horizontal timebase /sweep circuit has failed,or its not being selected correctly.
Do you get any Vertical deflection if you change the trace position or apply a couple of volts DC to the input ?
Check all internal plugs sockets,and ,or PCB card connectors.
Warning, do this off with power disconnected, that CRT EHT supply is lethal, probably 10-20Kv, that is obviously present !
If you are brave enough ,check the LV power supply voltages, most quality scopes have these printed on the PCB
Without a schematic you are going to struggle IMHO.
 
s2udio said:
Do you get any Vertical deflection if you change the trace position or apply a couple of volts DC to the input ?

Unfortunately no.

s2udio said:
Check all internal plugs sockets,and ,or PCB card connectors.

Checked all of this with the unit disconnected.
And then very carefully with the unit connected using a Wooden Chopstick.
No change, no news.

s2udio said:
If you are brave enough ,check the LV power supply voltages, most quality scopes have these printed on the PCB
Without a schematic you are going to struggle IMHO.

Will try to check the PSU voltages.
Filter caps look good at a visual inspection, no Bulging.

I only found 1 website on the internet with this oscilloscope, I contacted them to see if I could buy a service manual.
It's a shame because the oscilloscope has really nice specs, is in really good physical condition and looks well made also.
 
I guess if I only have a Dot in the middle of the screen it means that both the horizontal and the vertical are not working.

Have to check the voltages but it's getting hard without the schematics or service manual.
I checked the pcb's to see if there were some test point with voltages marked, but can't see any.

From the information I was able to gather this is a rebranded product and it's the same as the BK Precision 2160, Elenco S-1360 and Pintek PS-605.
 
Whoops said:
I guess if I only have a Dot in the middle of the screen it means that both the horizontal and the vertical are not working.
It is highly unlikely that both  the horizontal and vertical would quit at the same time, I would look at what is in common for both: the power supply. One way to shoot from the hip would be to measure all larger electrolytics in power supply world to check for DC about 1/2 to 3/4 of what they are rated for. You might stumble on the problem, or at least be in the right neighborhood, should you find one reading way low. Same with any voltage regulators, look for appropriate voltages between pins.

At least you have the HV supply, that is some good news.

Many scopes have a horizontal input, I don't see one on the front, is there one on the back, along with a switch?

Do the intensity and focus knobs do anything?

Is the momentary beam find switch stuck in? Does the spot move when you push it?

Any internal fuses?

Gene
 
Looks like a Hung Chang OS-620 rebrand. I've got one (in pieces) under the Elix name (HC-L202)

good luck!
 
PS. I have high quality schematics and foils if you want to attempt the repair. They are fairly basic units.
 
home_listening said:
Looks like a Hung Chang OS-620 rebrand. I've got one (in pieces) under the Elix name (HC-L202)

good luck!

Sorry, But thats not correct.  It is not similar at all to the Hung Chang OS-620 .

As I told Before it's the same Scope as the BK Precision 2160, Elenco S-1360 and Pintek PS-605
 
Gene Pink said:
It is highly unlikely that both  the horizontal and vertical would quit at the same time, I would look at what is in common for both: the power supply. One way to shoot from the hip would be to measure all larger electrolytics in power supply world to check for DC about 1/2 to 3/4 of what they are rated for. You might stumble on the problem, or at least be in the right neighborhood, should you find one reading way low. Same with any voltage regulators, look for appropriate voltages between pins.

Yes like you say if both the horizontal and vertical are not working it's probably a common fault for both.

The Problem with tis PSU is that it's mounted under the CRT Tube so you can't reach or measure the components while the unit is mounted. Also there doesnt seem to be any test points marked on the PCB in other places of the circuit to make a PSU rails check easy.
I took the PSU pcb out to clean it and visual inspect it. Strangely there's really not any big Filter caps, was not expecting for this, there just 3 filter E-caps and not that big. check the pic:

IMG_6069.jpg



Gene Pink said:
Many scopes have a horizontal input, I don't see one on the front, is there one on the back, along with a switch?

Guess it's on the back, although I don't see any switch.
these are the connection at the back

Screen%20Shot%202016-05-12%20at%2011.27.10%20AM.png



Gene Pink said:
Do the intensity and focus knobs do anything?

Yes, Intensity and Focus work perfectly.


Gene Pink said:
Any internal fuses?

Not any that I can see.


 
Whoops said:
The Problem with tis PSU is that it's mounted under the CRT Tube so you can't reach or measure the components while the unit is mounted.
I took the PSU pcb out to clean it and visual inspect it. Strangely there's really not any big Filter caps, was not expecting for this, there just 3 filter E-caps and not that big. check the pic:

IMG_6069.jpg

Take another look at those three caps, the upper blue one appears to be bulging around the Napoleon scribes in the pic. I suggest that you replace it, and test all the other caps including the small ones and the semiconductors in that area, starting with the ones on the heatsinks. And that little bridge rect, just to the lower left of the big black cap.

A large portion of the energy used in a scope is the HV to light the crt (the switcher and potted flyback at the bottom of the board with the anode/focus wires?), the rest doesn't need much current, that seems about the right size. They do need a lot of different voltages, though, all those transistors on heatsinks that hide under the crt.

I don't suppose the bottom comes off of this scope? That would make things much easier, very hard to troubleshoot without powering it up. I feel your pain.

Another trick is to tack on a bunch of different color wires to the solder side, and bring them out to a terminal strip to measure while assembled and on. The terminal strip is to keep any wires from touching, causing more problems. Write down color=voltage both AC and DC, take it back apart, and see what makes sense, and more importantly, what doesn't make sense.. Rainbow colored ribbon cable is handy for this. Although it is time consuming.

these are the connection at the back

The Y out is the sweep voltage out, some signal generators have an input to voltage-control the freq. over perhaps a 1:10 range,  handy for measuring freq response using a slow sweep freq.

The "Z" input, modulates brightness. I never could find a use for this, other than perhaps to feed it a video signal, a saw tooth wave into the vertical input, and watch television. In glorious black and green.

Color TV, but just one color, not all of them. ;)

Gene
 
Got the schematics for this circuit, unfortunately theres no component values on the schematic, but it's enough to help the troubleshooting.
The schematics I got were for the Elenco S1360 older model, they match my unit.

here is the PSU Schematic:

Screen%20Shot%202016-05-12%20at%2010.39.54%20PM.png


I Measured all the voltages at the transformer secondary and every value is spot on.

Replaced all the PSU Electrolytic caps with new Panasonic 105º

Replaced BD901 and BD902 Bridge rectifiers

Replaced IC's U901 and U902, these are MC4558 Opamps

Unsoldered Q901, Q902,Q903 and Q904 and verify them with my Atas DCA Pro, all the transistores measured good. Soldered them back on

Tested all the PSU diodes, all tested well

Problems:

After the BD901 regulator I'm measuring +-15v instead of +-18.
Collector of Q902 I'm measuring +1.7v instead of +12v.
Collector of Q903  I'm measuring -0.9v instead of -12v.

All the other circuit boards are disconnected from the PSU board.

Any idea of what might be causing this?
the only thing that I didnt had time to do today was measuring the resistors one by one because I have to lift one leg up, visually they look fine.

theres one strange thing with the DB901 bridgr rectifier. I measure it with the + and - legs in the air so it was not connected to the rest of the circuit. I have 16VAC coming from the transformer, after BD901 I'm measuring + and - 14VDC, thats really strange shouldn't the votage after rectification go up by an 1.414 ratio? I changed the Bridge Rectifier for a new one and the same happens.

thanks
 
Whoops said:
Got the schematics for this circuit,

That helps a bunch.

I Measured all the voltages at the transformer secondary and every value is spot on.

Replaced all the PSU Electrolytic caps with new Panasonic 105º

Replaced BD901 and BD902 Bridge rectifiers

Unsoldered Q901, Q902,Q903 and Q904 and verify them with my Atas DCA Pro, all the transistores measured good. Soldered them back on

Tested all the PSU diodes, all tested well

You tested the zener diodes for their reverse zener voltage?

Odds are, if they act as diodes on a multimeter, they are probably fine.  They tend to fail either shorted or open, never seen one actually shift it's reverse voltage breakdown point, the main use of a zener. Easy enough to test, look up the number and determine the voltage, power supply set several volts above that, anode to minus, cathode to plus through a 1K resistor, measure voltage across diode.

Problems:

After the BD901 regulator I'm measuring +-15v instead of +-18.

You meant BD901 bridge,  something seems to be loading down that transformer winding and bridge in a big way. A major clue.

Collector of Q902 I'm measuring +1.7v instead of +12v.
Collector of Q903  I'm measuring -0.9v instead of -12v.

All the other circuit boards are disconnected from the PSU board.

That doesn't look like a circuit that needs a load to function, but someone with better chops than I, will need to confirm this. Anyone care to jump in? With no load, I believe you should get +/- 12v out of it. It appears to be cross-coupled, so that the - rail tracks the + rail, and if the - rail drops, Q904 shunts some + rail to ground to keep up, hard to tell without resistor values. A tracking supply would be expected with sensitive instrumentation that is flat to DC and is not expected to drift over time. Honestly, I do not have a full grasp of that circuit. But it is obvious that a single component failure in that circuit will take down both sides.

Any idea of what might be causing this?
the only thing that I didnt had time to do today was measuring the resistors one by one because I have to lift one leg up, visually they look fine.

Resistors below 1M almost never fail lower in value, check them in-circuit in both directions with your test leads,  wait for the readings to settle as whatever capacitors charge from the measurement current. Any that read much higher than marked in either direction, are bad. Circuit unpowered, of course. This is not a definitive test, but it will catch most bad or open resistors that aren't in parallel with other resistors, easier than unsoldering a bunch of legs.

theres one strange thing with the DB901 bridgr rectifier. I measure it with the + and - legs in the air so it was not connected to the rest of the circuit. I have 16VAC coming from the transformer, after BD901 I'm measuring + and - 14VDC, thats really strange shouldn't the votage after rectification go up by an 1.414 ratio? I changed the Bridge Rectifier for a new one and the same happens.

That's normal, with the bridge output not connected to anything, you have no filter capacitor at all. Your meter is interpolating a lot of 120 (100?) hz half-wave humps between peak and zero, and coming up with an average of  14V.  Connect any small cap across the bridge output, and you will get your expected (16V X 1.414) minus one diode drop in the bridge.

Since we seem to have it narrowed down to the +/- 12V supply, check that trimpot (VR 914) that appears to set both +/- 12V, they can get dusty,old or corroded with the wiper going open. Measure for 24V across the output rails, note which way the pot slot is facing, and work it end-to-end about 20 times to burnish off any corrosion on the wiper that may be preventing a decent connection to the carbon track, and if you are lucky and see real output, set it for 24V.

Have you checked the op amps? Another down-n-dirty trick, if they are expected to operate in a linear fashion as they would be in this circuit (not as digital comparators with output swinging from rail to rail driving relays or something), measure both + and - input pins. They should be within a couple millivolts of each other depending on internal offset, as they should be in a linear circuit that is operating linearly. If not, check to make sure the output has swung hard in the direction expected. IE, if the + input is more + than the - input, the op amp output should be pulling towards +.  This output current can generally be confirmed by measuring voltages on whatever resistors are connected to the output.

Or just change out the chips as they are in sockets, are they anything unusual/hard to get?

Gene

 
Gene Pink said:
You tested the zener diodes for their reverse zener voltage?

Odds are, if they act as diodes on a multimeter, they are probably fine.  They tend to fail either shorted or open, never seen one actually shift it's reverse voltage breakdown point, the main use of a zener. Easy enough to test, look up the number and determine the voltage, power supply set several volts above that, anode to minus, cathode to plus through a 1K resistor, measure voltage across diode.
I tested them using the multimeter diode function. I can try to test them with voltage like you say.

Gene Pink said:
Resistors below 1M almost never fail lower in value, check them in-circuit in both directions with your test leads,  wait for the readings to settle as whatever capacitors charge from the measurement current. Any that read much higher than marked in either direction, are bad. Circuit unpowered, of course. This is not a definitive test, but it will catch most bad or open resistors that aren't in parallel with other resistors, easier than unsoldering a bunch of legs.

Will Do that.

Gene Pink said:
That's normal, with the bridge output not connected to anything, you have no filter capacitor at all. Your meter is interpolating a lot of 120 (100?) hz half-wave humps between peak and zero, and coming up with an average of  14V.  Connect any small cap across the bridge output, and you will get your expected (16V X 1.414) minus one diode drop in the bridge.

Thank you, that makes sense I was not really understanding this.

Gene Pink said:
Since we seem to have it narrowed down to the +/- 12V supply, check that trimpot (VR 914) that appears to set both +/- 12V, they can get dusty,old or corroded with the wiper going open. Measure for 24V across the output rails, note which way the pot slot is facing, and work it end-to-end about 20 times to burnish off any corrosion on the wiper that may be preventing a decent connection to the carbon track, and if you are lucky and see real output, set it for 24V.

Will Check that

Gene Pink said:
Have you checked the op amps?

Yes, I forgot to say before, I changed them also for new ones. The Opamps are 4558
 
I tried everything and still was not getting the right voltages on the +12v and -12V rails.
Maybe I was missing something, I really dont know.

So I decided to convert those rails to use 7812 and 7912 regulators instead of the original circuit with transistor and opamp.
Actually this was done by the manufacturer in updated revisions of this PSU.

here is the new circuit of the PSU :

modified%20PSU.png



this was the original version:

Original%20PSU.png
 
Now the +12V and -12V are Fine, I have the exact voltages there.

The other 2 rails read a bit low,
In the +145V  I'm getting 117V
and in the 5V rail I have 3.6V

What Resistor values could I change to Bring up the voltage in those rails?

Thank you

modified%20PSU%20voltages.png

 
Are you sure the primary of the power transformer is correct for your local mains voltage?  In other words, are you in a country with 220vac mains and the unit is set for 240vac?
 
mjrippe said:
Are you sure the primary of the power transformer is correct for your local mains voltage?  In other words, are you in a country with 220vac mains and the unit is set for 240vac?

Yes,
Primary is set for 240VAC

As I said before all the transformer voltages at the different secondaries are spot on.

Thanks.

Do you know what resistor values could I change to Bring up the voltage in the 145V and 5V rails?



 
You dont want to be changing resistor values, you need to find the faulty part and replace it.  Measure and measure again! Remove from circuit if you think the circuit will load it. Put in sockets for the opamps so you can remove them.
 
radardoug said:
You dont want to be changing resistor values, you need to find the faulty part and replace it.  Measure and measure again! Remove from circuit if you think the circuit will load it. Put in sockets for the opamps so you can remove them.

I've done all of that already.  So I have to move on.

The Osciloscope is used so at some point someone might have changed for some reason some resistor values in the rails.
As the schematic doesnt show values, and as the Service Manual doesnt have a Parts List for the PSU I cant confirm that the resistors that are fitted in the PSU, although working properly, are the stock values.

Both the 145V and 5V rails are working , although at a lower voltage.
I just need to bring that voltage up.

So I would like to ask if changing the resistors R909 in the 145V  rail and the R970 in the 5V rail would allow to vary the output voltage?

Thank you


 

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