1 ohm 5,000 dollar subwoofer

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rock soderstrom said:
Ha ha, 1 Ohm! Thats the right load for my mighty 2A3 single end  tube power amp  ;D
When dealing with auto-phoolery the amplifiers are typically voltage limited to roughly 12v so to get more power from speakers it is logical to drop the impedance of the voice coils. IIRC Bose made <1 ohm voice coils, so they could wire their iconic 901 model's 8 drivers in series, and also used those drivers in car audio applications.

For higher power the auto-phools use DC-DC switching PS to step up the 12v to higher voltages for mo powa.

JR
 
> amplifiers are typically voltage limited to roughly 12v so to get more power from speakers it is logical to drop the impedance.......... for higher power the auto-phools use DC-DC switching PS to step up the 12v to higher voltages for mo powa.

It would be absurd to run a "$5k" speaker on a $13 12V Bridge amp (36 Watts). All car-sound amps above factory radios run boosted rails.

For a long time they boosted to +/-40V giving ~~150W in 4 Ohms. Then doubled-up for 300W in 2 Ohms, and so on; also Bridge-mode on +/-40V. Assuming enough switcher and audio guts, this does look like 2,800 Watts in 1 Ohm.

It is also absurd to think any speaker this size can dissipate 20KW. A long 8-inch coil is more like 2,400 Watts. Indeed Memphis Audio VIV2200.1 — 2,200 watts RMS x 1 at 1 ohm - $949.99 is in that zone. (Amazing thing: size of a large book, no cooling fins. 200 Amps @ 12V.)
 
200 Amps @ 12V

I remember before class D sub amps were popular, to get that kind of power to size ratio required water cooling and other gimmickry. Orion had a monster, as well HiFonics.  I don't even think they were 2ohm stable.

Collosus
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JohnRoberts said:
so to get more power from speakers it is logical to drop the impedance of the voice coils. IIRC Bose made <1 ohm voice coils,

We designed this back then for them:

https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/TDA1566.pdf

Two 4Ω or 2Ω capable BTL channels or one 1Ω capable BTL channel

Were initally surprised by the 1 Ohm as well, but OK, it was a given and it can be done.
 
Back in the 70s/80s I was doing some design consulting for Rudy Bozak (consumer electronics delay system). He made his own mid range driver with a metal cone (5" IIRC). This was before car audio took off and I suggested to Rudy that his speaker might have application in car audio market and asked him how hard it would be to make a lower impedance voice coil... He answered no problem but he had zero interest in that market, and I dropped it.

Its no secret that standard car speakers were already 3.2 Ohm, again for obvious reasons. Car batteries and electrical systems used to be 6V before 12V became popular (mid 1950***s).

JR

**** I had a 54 Ford with 6V stock electrical that I converted to 12V. An old trick we used was to tap into the middle of the lead acid battery between cells with a sheet metal screw to power 6V car radios. Not great for battery life (more professional conversions used 2x 6V batteries, often mounted in the trunk and rotated them periodically to share the pain).  The 6V starter motors work really great on 12V until they don't.
 
Many of the serious car audio guys will run subs at 1 ohm or .5 ohms. This is at power levels north of 10000 watts. They also make adaptor plates for adding up to 6 additional alternatives, and many of these guys will have 6-12 additional batteries......

The guys that build systems and compete in "db drag racing" events can easily hit 160db+ with these systems.
 
iampoor1 said:
Many of the serious car audio guys will run subs at 1 ohm or .5 ohms. This is at power levels north of 10000 watts. They also make adaptor plates for adding up to 6 additional alternatives, and many of these guys will have 6-12 additional batteries......

The guys that build systems and compete in "db drag racing" events can easily hit 160db+ with these systems.

I seen some of those shows...
 
events can easily hit 160db+

I confess I was into the sport in the early 2000's.  Sold equipment and did installations. It was fun to find creative ways to maximize reflectivity.  160db was in no way an easy achievement back then without serious speaker displacement.  I much preferred the one amp / one speaker category as it became about enclosure geometry and port tuning rather than throwing gobs of money at the  problem.

Got out of it when people started filling their footwells with concrete, replacing windshields with 3" lexan, dashes with MDF,  welding their doors shut, etc. 
 
scott2000 said:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gOuTwkSvUgE

:eek:

I don't get it, lol! What's the idea behind that?  At 23.30 min it looks like a real pleasure to be in this car and listing to that wonderful music  ;D ;D ;D
 
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