1176 kit
- Thread starter johnheath
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
either you buy the complete kit from hairball (http://www.hairballaudio.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=159) or only the part kit and get the parts needed from mouser, which can be cheaper (http://www.hairballaudio.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=143)
alternative: Micandmod http://micandmod.com/en/studio-hardwares/218-1176ln-revd-mono-complete-kit.html
alternative: Micandmod http://micandmod.com/en/studio-hardwares/218-1176ln-revd-mono-complete-kit.html
hymentoptera
Well-known member
johnheath said:
Another +1 on the Hairball kits. Many of the things in the mouser cart you may already have, like pots, caps, resistors, transistors, fuse, etc. You can go through and selectively remove or add what you don't need. Also, there's a complete kit available from hairball with everything included. The only real alternative at that price range is the Warm Audio WA76, but it's an already built commercial product and that's no fun is it?
hymentoptera said:johnheath said:
Another +1 on the Hairball kits. Many of the things in the mouser cart you may already have, like pots, caps, resistors, transistors, fuse, etc. You can go through and selectively remove or add what you don't need. Also, there's a complete kit available from hairball with everything included. The only real alternative at that price range is the Warm Audio WA76, but it's an already built commercial product and that's no fun is it?
No, true… I guess that I have most of the stuff except for some odd resistor values and such.
I have heard about that Warm Audio but building is the drug here =)
hymentoptera
Well-known member
Build threads for each of the most popular projects. The Rev A thread is only 100+ pages long, and the Rev F/G is only 20+ pages, the others are 200+ pages, but this pretty much everything you'll ever need to know about these builds.
Gyraf/mnats Rev J. This is the mnats "improved" version of Gyrafs original board, and was the main commercially available board for awhile, but I know some people who are still building these. I still have a pair of unbuilt boards around here somewhere. Footprints on the PCB for Lundahl transformers. Boards are still available at Hairball:
http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=646.0
Rev D. Next came the Rev D, and it remains the most popular project I believe. If you'd not sure which to build, then you can't go wrong with the Rev D.:
http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=20058.0
Rev A. Back to the beginning, they say. The original class-A amps on in/out, note this project it still uses the more modern version of the gain control amp, but that just makes it more stable in the highest ratio settings. Probably the most colorful version of all. If you want a wild beast, this is it:
http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=29981.0
Rev F/G. The "G" is opamp on the input, like the "J" board, so no input transformer. The F does use a transformer on input. Same PCB, it's up to you how to build it. Different output transformer and output pot than other versions. These are considered the cleanest sounding of all revisions.:
http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=33834.0
If you're still not certain which to build, read through some of those threads and I'm sure you'll find what you're looking for.
Gyraf/mnats Rev J. This is the mnats "improved" version of Gyrafs original board, and was the main commercially available board for awhile, but I know some people who are still building these. I still have a pair of unbuilt boards around here somewhere. Footprints on the PCB for Lundahl transformers. Boards are still available at Hairball:
http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=646.0
Rev D. Next came the Rev D, and it remains the most popular project I believe. If you'd not sure which to build, then you can't go wrong with the Rev D.:
http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=20058.0
Rev A. Back to the beginning, they say. The original class-A amps on in/out, note this project it still uses the more modern version of the gain control amp, but that just makes it more stable in the highest ratio settings. Probably the most colorful version of all. If you want a wild beast, this is it:
http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=29981.0
Rev F/G. The "G" is opamp on the input, like the "J" board, so no input transformer. The F does use a transformer on input. Same PCB, it's up to you how to build it. Different output transformer and output pot than other versions. These are considered the cleanest sounding of all revisions.:
http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=33834.0
If you're still not certain which to build, read through some of those threads and I'm sure you'll find what you're looking for.
hymentoptera
Well-known member
johnheath said:
I will leave a proper answer to someone more experienced, as I have never ever used the real machine. I suppose it all comes down to distortion. Distortion from the FET limiting, distortion from the transformers, etc. The Rev A, for instance, was before the "LN" designation, which stood presumably for "Low Noise".
If it matters, Jim Williams of Audio Upgrades has been quoted as saying that the Rev G is his favorite, and he's a known fanatic when it comes to low distortion, low noise, and ultra-wide frequency response.
Of course the real answer is "build one of each"
ruairioflaherty
Well-known member
hymentoptera said:
I'm sure Jim is a nice chap but I would be very careful about taking his advice on how things sound...
There has been a huge amount written about the differences between the various 1176 revisions. I've liked every version I've heard, DIY and original. They are all useful.
For me the key to the 1176 is it's compression action or timing, how it grabs and lets go. The line sound is less important.
I have an original Rev H that I'm just about to recap, will probably mod the front end to D spec with a UTC o12 for fun. Will post on that when I get time.
For me the key to the 1176 is it's compression action or timing, how it grabs and lets go. The line sound is less important.
[/quote]
Yes, I built a couple of LA2A's and they are not quiet but it is possible to keep the noise below threshold and I love the compression from those… in this case I am looking at possibly the biggest rival to the LA2A… the 1176 and I think that a "LN" version of any kind would do?
Regards
/John
[/quote]
Yes, I built a couple of LA2A's and they are not quiet but it is possible to keep the noise below threshold and I love the compression from those… in this case I am looking at possibly the biggest rival to the LA2A… the 1176 and I think that a "LN" version of any kind would do?
Regards
/John
musika
Well-known member
I have a couple of boards from quite a while ago that were never built, but wondering now what revision they are:
Labeled: 1176PD Gyraf 2002
They have the Lundahl I/O transformer circuits.
Does anyone know ... are these Rev D ?
Labeled: 1176PD Gyraf 2002
They have the Lundahl I/O transformer circuits.
Does anyone know ... are these Rev D ?
ruairioflaherty
Well-known member
musika said:
They are not.
ruairioflaherty
Well-known member
weiss said:
Pretty vague. I don't find 1176s to be noisy in general. Then again it's not exactly my first pick for quiet music where noise of any kind is an issue.
ruairioflaherty
Well-known member
johnheath said:
I would build a Rev D to start. The kit is easily available, the project is well supported and if you decide you don't like it it would be the easiest to re-sell after the fact.
