1176 Push Button Question

[Junction]

Damn, I should've checked for these in the electronic shops when i was there today .... I have seen many of these switches, supplied in banks, a bank of 4 is common and I think these rectangular buttons are also available. I can check next time and report back, probably within 1 week, if anyone interetsed.

Michael

 

[edanderson]

[quote author="Echo North"]
The end caps *look* like they are 5mm squares so the may be too big for the 3mm F switches.
[/quote]

i'm fairly certain that those switches have the same 3mm square end on them with a 5mm square stop for the spring and cap. the caps that ua supplied you should fit fine on the F series switches.

to get the whole deal you're going to have to either order from toneluck or c&k / ITT / Cannon.

ed

 

[Echo North]

Thank you for the reply MNats!

I'm looking over the UA ratio board now here is a very crude drawing of it:

I'm guessing pin 1 on the UA board would equal "21" on the mnats board, and pin 2 would equal "GRN".

Do you see any problems here?

Thanks again,

Mike

ps. for those interested the mnts push botton layouts are on the main page at the bottom:
http://www.geocities.com/m_natsume/1176.html

 

[Echo North]

Updated Hookups:
The Mnats hookup point names might be off because I was having a hard time reading small back words lettering...you should get the point though.

*Hookups Wrong See next post*

Seems right? I haven't gone over it with a fine toothed comb but I don't know that I'm experienced enough to know if there is a significant difference between the boards.

Mnats, do you see any potential problems or mods that should be made?

Thanks again,

Mike

 

[Echo North]

Ok...if anyone still cares...

I went through the UA boards tonight carefully. I did find a few errors in the resistor values in the drawing above and the switch layout is reversed.

I am now happy to announce it is the EXACT same as the Mnats board. If you are interested in using the UA ratio switch bank and board here are your hookups:

UA------------Mnats
1---------------21
2---------------GRN
3---------------20
4---------------BLK
5---------------Rel Pot
RED------------15

The meter board is a little different because the Mnats version has a bypass button instead of a +8. It is a lot more simple though.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[Vas]

Hi Mike!i'm interested in those too!so please keep posting! :thumb: how did you order from universal audio?I'm interested in 4 sets(for 4 units)+knob sets for 2 units(i have already 2 sets of knobs from a past order from purple!)

BEST REGARDS
BILL

 

[Echo North]

Hi Bill,

Call UA support at 877-MY-UAUDIO and listen for the "Order Parts" option. They may ask you what unit it's for...I jut said it was for a UA1176 that was out of warrantee.

I'm getting the F series switches from Digikey today. If the F series switches and UA caps fit one another..that gives us two options:

1: Order a complete assembly from UA ($40 per bank + shp). Pros: Ready to use and switches are interlocking. Cons: Cost.

2. Order F2UEE switches from digikey and Caps from UA (About $10 per bank +board/eching costs +shp) Pros: Cost. Cons: Non-interlocking and you'll need to be able to etch boards.

Like I said, I'll post later tonight on whether or not the UA caps fit the F2UEE switches.

Thanks!

Mike

 

[Vas]

THANKS FOR THE INFO! :grin: I will try the universal audio option,i dont realy care about cost and i think that interlocking option is important,plus i have no experience in etching pcbs!
anyway i will try from universal audio website(I LIVE IN GREECE!)

I HAVE DONE SO RESEARCH MY SELF AND I GOT A PART NUMBER FOR 2PDT,INTERLOCKING,TERMINAL SHIELDED,GOLDEN CONTACTS,ITT-C&K SWITCHES IN 4 BANKS, THE PART #IS F-2U-GR-TB-AU
FOR CAPS
F15-01
AND FOR CHASSIS
C04-15
AS FOR THE POWER SWITCES I HAVE 10 OF THEM(ITT NE-18)THAT IF I GO WITH THE UNIVERSAL AUDIO OPTION I WONT NEED THEM!
BEST REGARDS
BILL

 

[Echo North]

Yes I have seen the ITT/Cannon switch bank part numbers. The problem I ran into was I cannot find any stock.

Digikey has the switches (although the gold plated are almost $5..that is why I used the silver). But no one has the chassis or caps. If you find these parts in stock anywhere let me know.

Thanks!

Mike

 

[Vas]

I think those part # never ment to be on stock,but you have to make a special order so if you are really interested(and there is any interest in doing a group buy,i will go for 28 switches)i can mail them and see if i can get an offer,if not,UA board will do fine for me,cause as i have already told you i cannot etch pcbs(unless you made some for me too if you finally go with ITT switches ! :grin: )Did you finally got the UA banks to work?i saw your ratio board wiring diagram but what about meter board?
BEST REGARDS
BILL

 

[Echo North]

I'm still waiting on many of the parts for my build. So I'm still a week away from starting my build. I'm 100% positive the ratio board is the same...I went through it in detail. Those hookups above should be right.

I quickly looked over the meter board. It's the same...but different in that the Mnats/Gyraf boards have the bypass switch where the +4 is on the UA/original unit..and the +4 on the +8 (no +8).

The hook ups are simple but if you hook it up for bypass instead of +8 you will have to cut the pcb traces to the +4 switch (making it independent from the board) then wiring the board just like mnats boards. In this case the +8 position becomes +4. This board is very simple though. You'll see what's happening when you see it. I've just made it sound confusing.

I really want to hook my Mnats board like the original though (bypass on the attack switch, +4 and +8 metering) I'm working on this now. Has anyone done this? Any tips? Advice? Warnings?

Thanks,

Mike

 

[Echo North]

Good news!

I got the F2UEE switches today and the UA caps fit perfect!

So one switch with silver connectors and cap is about $2 ($8 for a bank).

Mike

 

[Vas]

HI MIKE!Is there any way to post here some part numbers for the universal audio banks?
thanks in advance
best regards
bill

 

[Echo North]

The numbers on my invoice are:

Ratio:80-0013
Meter:80-0014

FYI, I have heard you can haggle with these guys and get the price down as much as 50%. In fact, on the invoice there is a "discount" column.

Worth a try.

Mike

 

[Vas]

THANKS FOR THE INFO!I will let you know how it went!
BEST REGARDS
BILL

 

[Vas]

HI!i just got back from universal audio!unfortunatelly they cannot sell direct to international customers which is bad cause their local distributor is all about profit and i'm sure he is going to raise up prices :sad:
Anyway ,let me know if you or anyone could in a future order add some thinks for me!
or if there is a possibility of someone etching some boards so we can go with the c&k option,if that goes on i already have a source for cheap ITT NE18 power switches,and i could contact itt/cannon (my brother lives in germany!)and give as an offer for the correct part#(interlocking,chassis,e.t.c)
BEST REGARDS
BILL

 

[Echo North]

PM sent!

Mike

 

[Echo North]

Hi just a follow up for people looking into pushbuttons.

The UA banks worked great on my unit. I will have more details in a bit when I get the front panel back and get the unit completely done.

BUT A WORD OF WARNING. I was looking closely at the "replacement caps" I got from UA and they are different then the caps on the switch banks I bought from them. They look like the ITT caps...same width as the original UA caps but a few mm shorter.

I don't know why they would sell replacement caps that are a different size? Unless these are from a different product and they sent the wrong ones.

Weird.

Mike