A few GSSL /turbo /super-sidechain wiring questions

[Praqtice]

Hi Group Diy,

I was wondering if anyone could help with some wiring related questions.

Nearly finished building a GSSL with Turbo and 2x Super sidechain (SSC) boards, just doing the final wiring but I'm a bit confused about the best way to hook up the 2x SSC boards and Turbo board with a Turbo/GSSL DPDT switch.
I've hunted around the forums but there seems to be many ways to skin a cat. Some of the diagrams/descriptions out there are a bit confusing or questionable and many are for a different configuration than I am building.

I found one diagram that I've made a modification to because it seemed to have L+R points for SSC on GSSL board the wrong way around. Otherwise it seems like it should work to me but I am a bit of a newb to the diy game, so I more than likely have got something wrong... Trying to use this and other projects as a way to learn about whats going on in the circuit rather than just blindly follow instructions and hope it works.

Can anyone see any mistakes in this diagram or confirm that it will work before I start soldering it up? Here's the image:

This is the Sidechain board I'm using:
https://plus.google.com/photos/108309409331755720628/albums/5181806817133197329?banner=pwa

My second question is about the EAO switch I'm using. I bought it from ssl spares and it has a few more lugs than I was expecting or need and am a bit confused about where to solder. There doesn't seem to be a datasheet available from EAO for this model either… There are 5x pairs of lugs. 1 pair on the rear are labelled "+" and "-" which I presume are for the led lamp? Another 4 pairs, one pair on each corner are labelled 1, 2. 3 and 4. Are these maybe 4x switches and I can just pick a pair and solder the "To" and "Return" points on SSC board?
If so does it matter which lug I solder "To" and "Return" on SSC?
Here's a couple images of the switch…

My third question is about the External Sidechain input on SSC boards. I'm using an XLR input which is grounded in series with the other XLR's. Do I just parallel wire Pin 2 (+) on XLR to "Ext." on each SSC board and leave XLR Pin 3 (-) and the "0V" point next to Ext. on SSC board unconnected?

My final question is regarding a problem I encountered. Whilst wiring up the rotary switch pcb, the ON and COM solder points came away from the board. 
I traced the ON point to the "C" wire in the ribbon cable and the COM point the pole of the attack switch. Can I desolder the "C" wire from rotary pcb and connect it directly to ON point on SSC pcb and connect the Attack switch pole directly to the COM point on SSC and this will be ok?

Many thanks in advance,

Sam

 

[Harpo]

Can anyone see any mistakes in this diagram or confirm that it will work before I start soldering it up?

should work (upper row of switch is not needed, IE 'L' on mainboard always connecting to SSCFboard2 L-input, so a SPDT instead of a DPDT switch would do the same. Maybe use the upper row for Oxford/Aarhus mode status display).

My second question is about the EAO switch I'm using. I bought it from ...
Another 4 pairs, one pair on each corner are labelled 1, 2. 3 and 4. Are these maybe 4x switches and I can just pick a pair and solder the "To" and "Return" points on SSC board?If so does it matter which lug I solder "To" and "Return" on SSC?

No pic shows the switches model number. Have a look at http://www.newark.com/pdfs/datasheets/EAO/BR01.pdf for your probably 2NC+2NO (could be momentary or maintained action) illuminated switch (could either be incandescent lamp at whatever voltage or LED and you want to know this for the value of the probably needed current limiting resistor in between, so pull the T5-module out to read the printed on number).
For switching function have a look at probably drawing 9 or 23 from pg.19. Depending on wanted status button pressed/released you connect between 1/2 or 3/4 per deck. If you link 2+4 per deck, this would be the common pole of a double throw switch.

My third question is about the External Sidechain input on SSC boards. I'm using an XLR input which is grounded in series with the other XLR's. Do I just parallel wire Pin 2 (+) on XLR to "Ext." on each SSC board and leave XLR Pin 3 (-) and the "0V" point next to Ext. on SSC board unconnected?

Whatever you might call ground. For external-key-Input (not output/send) wire XLR-pin2 to 'Ext.', XLR-pin3 to '0V', XLR-pin1 to shield/case. (0V reference voltage connects to case in exactly 1 point.)

My final question is regarding a problem I encountered. Whilst wiring up the rotary switch pcb, the ON and COM solder points came away from the board. 
I traced the ON point to the "C" wire in the ribbon cable and the COM point the pole of the attack switch. Can I desolder the "C" wire from rotary pcb and connect it directly to ON point on SSC pcb and connect the Attack switch pole directly to the COM point on SSC and this will be ok?

Yepp. Only connect the SSCF board with relay fitted (only one DPDT relais needed for soft bypass) to these spots on control pcb for the bypass function.

 

[Praqtice]

Thank you so much Harpo. I should be able to finish it now!

I see what you mean, much simpler. I think have an spdt the same size somewhere. Indicator would be nice but panel is drilled and on it's way and I just want to hear it now!

So with an SPDT this should work?

No pic shows the switches model number. Have a look at http://www.newark.com/pdfs/datasheets/EAO/BR01.pdf for your probably 2NC+2NO (could be momentary or maintained action) illuminated switch (could either be incandescent lamp at whatever voltage or LED and you want to know this for the value of the probably needed current limiting resistor in between, so pull the T5-module out to read the printed on number).
For switching function have a look at probably drawing 9 or 23 from pg.19. Depending on wanted status button pressed/released you connect between 1/2 or 3/4 per deck. If you link 2+4 per deck, this would be the common pole of a double throw switch.

Ok so I would connect 'To' to 1 and 'Return' to 2 and this should mean the compression is in when the led is on and the switch is in and in bypass when switch is out and led is off?

The switch seems to be maintained action.

I've used a T5 LED that I bought for the switch, the voltage was recommended from SSC help page although I can't remember it just now. I also replaced the resistor on SSC board to match T5 led voltage as recommended on SSC page too, so this should be ok.

Many thanks again!

 

[gyraf]

[edited thread title to distinguish from the GSSL help thread]

 

[Harpo]

Ok so I would connect 'To' to 1 and 'Return' to 2

Order of 'To' and 'Return' doesn't matter for standard SSCF wiring. The switch just makes or breaks the relais coil power connection between these spots.

and this should mean the compression is in when the led is on and the switch is in and in bypass when switch is out and led is off?

If it is the switching function from drawing 9 or 23 from pg.19 of linked datasheet (you didn't quote/show the switches printed on number), pins 1/2 are NormallyConnected (normally=switch not pressed in). If you want compression enabled and LED connecting to SSCF-board showing up when switch is pressed in, connect to switch pins3/4 for the NormallyOpen function.

 

[Praqtice]

hi harpo,

i had to shelve my gssl project for a few months until i had some free time from work to get back to it.

i managed to wire up the eao switch the other day and fired the compressor up for the first time. haven't listened to any sounds through it yet but just feeding a signal into the inputs, all pots/switches and sidechain modes seems to be functioning correctly on the meter. no smoke or fire, very happy!

i connected the 'to' and 'return' points to 3/4 pins on the eao switch and this enables the compressor when the switch is latched in, which is perfect.

the only problem seems to be that the led doesn't illuminate at all if the switch is in or out. i'd like it to illuminate when the compression is enabled and the switch is latched in.

i've switched the resistor on the ssc board for the correct value (330ohm i think, was a while ago) and using recommend voltage rating for 5.5k led.

i connected the 'led in' + and - points on the ssc board to the 2x pins marked + and - on the end of the switch. + to +, - to -
so i'm a bit confused as to what might be wrong?

i decided to not connect the 'meter led' points to the meter incase this might be something to do with it?

the eao switch is marked: 01. 282. 825 2

many thanks again for all your help and time.

regards,

sam

 

[Harpo]

i've switched the resistor on the ssc board for the correct value (330ohm i think, was a while ago) and using recommend voltage rating for 5.5k led.

Knowing the voltage between the LED terminals at sscf board without LED fitted, the type of base T5.5 module (if it is a single white LED inside, these already have a -wild guessing- 630R, 1K5 or 1K8 resistor inside the module for the rated 12V, 24V or 28VDC supply to operate these at 14mA, so number will be 10-2109.3139, 10-2112.3139 or 10-2113.3139) as well as the value of the maybe needed current limiting resistor is essential. (see my reply to you from your initial post 'so pull the T5-module out to read the printed on number').

i connected the 'led in' + and - points on the ssc board to the 2x pins marked + and - on the end of the switch. + to +, - to -
so i'm a bit confused as to what might be wrong?

seems correct.

i decided to not connect the 'meter led' points to the meter incase this might be something to do with it?

nothin' to do with it.

the eao switch is marked: 01. 282. 825 2

...wich seems to be operating correctly. Your problem is the illumination and knowing this part number will get you a step further when reading the parts data from pg.10 for LED.

 

[Praqtice]

thanks harpo!

i took out the led and it says 28v AC on the side. seems a bit too high. i'm sure it was supposed to be 12v

 

[Praqtice]

i mean 24V sorry. would this led work?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MARL-209-997-22-38-LED-T5-5-24V-SLIDE-WHITE-/350819406909?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item51ae77543d

 

[Harpo]

i took out the led and it says 28v AC on the side. seems a bit too high. i'm sure it was supposed to be 12v

i mean 24V sorry.

When this module has 24VAC printed on and originates from EAO, this part most likeley is part.no 10-1112.1199 (24V @25mA) or 10-1112.1279 (24V @50mA) from pg.9, both not a LED but an incandescent lamp that can be operated at AC or DC.
You still keep requested values a secret (module part number, fitted resistor values in series to this part, DC voltage across terminal) and my cristal ball seems to be too blurry.

 

[Praqtice]

When this module has 24VAC printed on and originates from EAO, this part most likeley is part.no 10-1112.1199 (24V @25mA) or 10-1112.1279 (24V @50mA) from pg.9, both not a LED but an incandescent lamp that can be operated at AC or DC.
You still keep requested values a secret (module part number, fitted resistor values in series to this part, DC voltage across terminal) and my cristal ball seems to be too blurry.

hi harpo,

apologies again for the confusion. i am new to these sorts of builds and am guessing to a large extent. thank you for your patience. ill try and provide as much info as i can.

the led lamp i have is not an eao part but one i found on ebay and hoped would work. i can't find any more info on the part other than the '28VAC' written on the side as it doesn't seem to be listed on ebay any more.
i think i will have to replace it with the correct eao part?

here's a picture of the part i have:

i switched the 2k2 led resistor on ssc board to 330R as recommended by barclaycon on this thread:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=32986.0

The component values on the SSC PCB are for an LED (to show IN and OUT).
If you are going to use a T5 wedge lamp (like in the EAO switch) or a LED lamp, then choose a 24volt type and change the value of the resistor on the PCB from 2k2 to 330 ohms.

other than this one resistor all parts are as standard on ssc board.

the only other info i have for switch is printed on the side of the main switch housing:

01.282.825 2
μ 50E3
LAMP MAX 60V/1.2W
5/250 ∼
250V AC 5A K7
300V AC SD

at the +/- points on the switch i measured 29.6V DC when the switch is engaged/latched (compression 'in')

this is the closest product i have found in eao catalogue that i think matches the spec i need...?
http://products.eao.com/index.php?IdTreeGroup=2350&IdProduct=53355

many thanks for your time again.

sam

 

[Harpo]

Sure you pushed in your module with correct orientation ? Turn it around 180deg.and give it a try again.
The recommended additional current limiting 300R resistor value was for a 24V module. Yours is a 28V module (coming with built in higher internal resistor value), so use a 150R instead. The 300R should still work, but will give a little less brightness if your module isn't broken.

 

[Praqtice]

we have light!

so simple... led was wrong way around. feel very stupid.

thank you harpo!