AD200 Bass Mesa Boogie Schematic Requesto

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opacheco

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Hi to everyone!
I have been having a rare noise when turn any pot in one AD200 Bass Amp MESA BOOGIE and I would like to know if Do you have its schematic? I have some schematic but I believe that isn’t the appropriate schematic!!

I will appreciate any help!
Thanks
opacheco
 
Hi to everyone!
I have been having a rare noise when turn any pot in one AD200 Bass Amp MESA BOOGIE and I would like to know if Do you have its schematic? I have some schematic but I believe that isn’t the appropriate schematic!!

I will appreciate any help!
Thanks
opacheco
Any idea?

opacheco
 
Is the amp in question a Mesa Bass Buster 200? I couldn’t find any schematics to help out. Mesa might provide you with it since it’s a legacy product. If the amp is indeed an Orange AD200 as others suggested above, here are some tips:

I see this traced preamp was posted above by CJ but here are the other docs I have. I have fixed several of these, all manufactured around 2008. Orange was using pretty junk filter caps and they seem to go bad. They are pretty standard footprint radials / snap-ins so you can get good computer grade long life caps for this application. The screen grid resistors should also be replaced with a way better quality part (I like Ohmite 40 series, part #45F1K0E or 45J1K0E I think)

the circuit boards aren’t super fun to work on. IIRC you have to disconnect a lot of terminal spades from the transformers. Been a minute since I’ve had one open.

This amp runs the power tube plates really hot (I think they measure around around 600VDC at 120VAC) and I have really only had good luck in terms of long-term reliability and stability on the road with the Gold Lion reissue KT88 in the power section and likewise the EHX 6550, which is a fairly similar tube. Avoid JJ power tubes in this amp (personally, I avoid them all of the time)

Whole lot of work for an amp that I don’t particularly love the sound of 😅
 

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Last edited:
another problem with Orange is that painted chassis.
you have to check all the ground points because that paint is thick.

and the push-on ground lug is always falling off like a VW bug distributor lead.
 
Is the amp in question a Mesa Bass Buster 200? I couldn’t find any schematics to help out. Mesa might provide you with it since it’s a legacy product. If the amp is indeed an Orange AD200 as others suggested above, here are some tips:

I see this traced preamp was posted above by CJ but here are the other docs I have. I have fixed several of these, all manufactured around 2008. Orange was using pretty junk filter caps and they seem to go bad. They are pretty standard footprint radials / snap-ins so you can get good computer grade long life caps for this application. The screen grid resistors should also be replaced with a way better quality part (I like Ohmite 40 series, part #45F1K0E or 45J1K0E I think)

the circuit boards aren’t super fun to work on. IIRC you have to disconnect a lot of terminal spades from the transformers. Been a minute since I’ve had one open.

This amp runs the power tube plates really hot (I think they measure around around 600VDC at 120VAC) and I have really only had good luck in terms of long-term reliability and stability on the road with the Gold Lion reissue KT88 in the power section and likewise the EHX 6550, which is a fairly similar tube. Avoid JJ power tubes in this amp (personally, I avoid them all of the time)

Whole lot of work for an amp that I don’t particularly love the sound of 😅
z11111,
Wow that’s exactly the problem that I have had! Now I need to re-check the decoupling electrolytic caps that I had an idea this is the failure in my amp from the beginning!!

Another thing I saw is the solder flux in almost every spade and several components terminals!!…I need to clean them for rare cracking noise!!

Thanks a lot infinite thanks for your magistral comments
opacheco
 

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another problem with Orange is that painted chassis.
you have to check all the ground points because that paint is thick.

and the push-on ground lug is always falling off like a VW bug distributor lead.
Ok CJ, I will check that!

Thanks
opacheco
 
……The screen grid resistors should also be replaced with a way better quality part (I like Ohmite 40 series, part #45F1K0E or 45J1K0E I think)
Dear z11111,
Which ones resistors do you talking about? The grid for power tubes, right?

Thanks
opacheco
 
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