My 1987 Midiverb II is acting up. Sometimes the LEDs on the front panel for Signal and Overload light up and stay lit, combined with some static, distortion or feedback mixed into the output. I've carefully and thoroughly cleaned the pots but it made no difference. I've also seen this behavior when testing with no signal passed through and no cables connected so I don't think it's necessarily audio related.
Front Panel Image: http://imgur.com/EcDBt2T
Overall, the unit still functions and I can usually get it to calm down and work with some gentle tweaking of the pots until the noise stops, but I want a longer term solution.
My electronics knowledge is rather spotty, but using what resources I could find online, I took a multimeter and checked all the voltages at the 3 regulators and all "seem" within the bounds of acceptable, but I could easily be mistaken.
The LM7912CT showed -19.76 in, -12.03 out, and .006 for common/gnd.
The 7812 (LM340T12) showed 19.8 in, 11.91 out, and .006 for common/gnd.
The 7805 (LM340T5) showed 9.36 in, 4.97 out, and .006 for common/gnd.
Voltage Regulators Image: http://imgur.com/FTFxON3
All the caps "look" fantastic—no leaks, none are puffed or exploded, etc., but being 30 years old, some/all could be dried up or faulty w/o any visible signs. FWIW, it's been in storage and not used much over the last 25 years.
I measured the resistance across all 3 of the pots and they seemed fine and smooth. All appeared in line with their specs: In/Out are 10k audio/logarithmic, and the Mix pot is 1k linear.
Question 1: How do I troubleshoot from here? It looks like it is getting adequate power--at least up to and leaving the regulators--and all other basic audio/FX functionality is working despite having to fiddle with the pots.
Question 2: On a side note, there appears to be a broken solder connection between a small ceramic capacitor and the leg of a metal ring around the 1/4" Defeat jack's opening--probably for grounding/shielding. It looks as though they may have been soldered together at one time and have come apart. There is an identical metal ring around the Right Input's 1/4" opening, and that one IS tied to a similar ceramic cap next to that jack, which is what makes me think my theory is correct. Am I missing something?
Possible Broken Solder Joint Image: http://imgur.com/0wpwPy3
Thanks,
JG
Front Panel Image: http://imgur.com/EcDBt2T
Overall, the unit still functions and I can usually get it to calm down and work with some gentle tweaking of the pots until the noise stops, but I want a longer term solution.
My electronics knowledge is rather spotty, but using what resources I could find online, I took a multimeter and checked all the voltages at the 3 regulators and all "seem" within the bounds of acceptable, but I could easily be mistaken.
The LM7912CT showed -19.76 in, -12.03 out, and .006 for common/gnd.
The 7812 (LM340T12) showed 19.8 in, 11.91 out, and .006 for common/gnd.
The 7805 (LM340T5) showed 9.36 in, 4.97 out, and .006 for common/gnd.
Voltage Regulators Image: http://imgur.com/FTFxON3
All the caps "look" fantastic—no leaks, none are puffed or exploded, etc., but being 30 years old, some/all could be dried up or faulty w/o any visible signs. FWIW, it's been in storage and not used much over the last 25 years.
I measured the resistance across all 3 of the pots and they seemed fine and smooth. All appeared in line with their specs: In/Out are 10k audio/logarithmic, and the Mix pot is 1k linear.
Question 1: How do I troubleshoot from here? It looks like it is getting adequate power--at least up to and leaving the regulators--and all other basic audio/FX functionality is working despite having to fiddle with the pots.
Question 2: On a side note, there appears to be a broken solder connection between a small ceramic capacitor and the leg of a metal ring around the 1/4" Defeat jack's opening--probably for grounding/shielding. It looks as though they may have been soldered together at one time and have come apart. There is an identical metal ring around the Right Input's 1/4" opening, and that one IS tied to a similar ceramic cap next to that jack, which is what makes me think my theory is correct. Am I missing something?
Possible Broken Solder Joint Image: http://imgur.com/0wpwPy3
Thanks,
JG