API 312 Thread!

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Insomniaclown said:
Edit: Just wanted to talk about the impedance switch quickly.
Sorry, just saw this, glad to hear you sorted the stuff out. APIs really do sound great. for your impedance switch, did you end up just swapping the Load R, or are you switching primaries from series to parallel and vice versa?


and soundcave, that looks like fun!
 
Hey Mitsos! I am just varying the load R with a couple of resistors on a DPDT switch. I had to locate the switch on the back panel so that's why its not in the pictures. I am still playing around with different mics to see what effect it has, and if I chose my impedances well. I am thinking I should have bought a DP3T switch to add 1K in there, but so far I like it.

They really do sound great!  ;D My 2 channels are pretty different, but I haven't spent enough time with them to pick a favourite. Hopefully I'll be able to really sit down with these this week and get some recording done.
 
cool...I'm still thinking of doing the pot thing on one of my boxes..

let us know what your findings are..
 
Will do! I can post some sound samples as well of a couple different mics on a couple different sources. Me explaining things sometimes doesn't work out too well.
 
Hi all, i'm just in the process of putting together my parts list for a 4x API312 build.
I'm planning on using the fivefish PSU-2448mk2 to rashion power out to the 4 boards.
Anyone know if a 160VA 25V-0-25V will suffice???
Thanks in advance
 
That's plenty! I am using a 15VA 2 x 18V with Mike fatoms power supply to power 2 channels, plus 2 JLM VU meter buffer boards and 2 34mm VU meters (LED's), and I still have some power left over.
 
Hi all,
Just wondering if these pots will do the job? :::
http://au.element14.com/bi-technologies-tt-electronics/p160knp-0qc20a10k/panel-pot-10k-log/dp/1760787

There seem to be about 30 different pots with the same specs and the price range is all over the place....

Also, has anyone had any experience with the Five Fish Audio DOA-17 opamp?

I'm in the process of selecting 2520 styled opamp and this one caught my eye due to the clean layout. I was going to go for the gar2520 from classicapi but the PCB looks like a mess....

Cheers!
 
frazzman said:
Hi all,
Just wondering if these pots will do the job? :::
http://au.element14.com/bi-technologies-tt-electronics/p160knp-0qc20a10k/panel-pot-10k-log/dp/1760787
sure, but for usual behaviour with increasing gain when dialing clockwise, you probably won't like it.
(BTW, please update your profile with your location data.)

There seem to be about 30 different pots with the same specs and the price range is all over the place....
... and none of these will do the job for usual behaviour.
With varying resistance (the pot) in the shunt arm of this non-inverting gain stage you don't want these specs. You want a rev.log taper pot.

Just for examples sake with an ideal taper pot (there is no such thing) for a linear dB gain increase.
pot.rotation%resistancedB gain
0%100006.01
10%402610.82
20%196715.61
30%103520.41
40%56125.21
50%30630.01
60%16534.82
70%8639.59
80%4144.35
90%1549.15
100%054.00

Instead your selected, same wired, log taper pot will give you nearly all gain crammed in the last 10% of pot rotation.
pot.rotation%resistancedB gain
0%100006.01
10%99856.02
20%99596.03
30%99146.05
40%98356.08
50%96946.15
60%94396.27
70%89656.50
80%80337.01
90%59748.52
100%054.00

For an australian source for your rev.log pot maybe ask Joe Malone at JLM-Audio.
For a british source maybe ask Colin from Audiomaintenance.

good luck
 
Doh, I get it now...appreciate the explanation!
I know jlmaudio has these pots, however i've been trying to consolidate my suppliers for this project as the postal costs are stacking up to around $100 for sourcing from multiple suppliers...

Harpo said:
frazzman said:
Hi all,
Just wondering if these pots will do the job? :::
http://au.element14.com/bi-technologies-tt-electronics/p160knp-0qc20a10k/panel-pot-10k-log/dp/1760787
sure, but for usual behaviour with increasing gain when dialing clockwise, you probably won't like it.
(BTW, please update your profile with your location data.)

There seem to be about 30 different pots with the same specs and the price range is all over the place....
... and none of these will do the job for usual behaviour.
With varying resistance (the pot) in the shunt arm of this non-inverting gain stage you don't want these specs. You want a rev.log taper pot.

Just for examples sake with an ideal taper pot (there is no such thing) for a linear dB gain increase.
pot.rotation%resistancedB gain
0%100006.01
10%402610.82
20%196715.61
30%103520.41
40%56125.21
50%30630.01
60%16534.82
70%8639.59
80%4144.35
90%1549.15
100%054.00

Instead your selected, same wired, log taper pot will give you nearly all gain crammed in the last 10% of pot rotation.
pot.rotation%resistancedB gain
0%100006.01
10%99856.02
20%99596.03
30%99146.05
40%98356.08
50%96946.15
60%94396.27
70%89656.50
80%80337.01
90%59748.52
100%054.00

For an australian source for your rev.log pot maybe ask Joe Malone at JLM-Audio.
For a british source maybe ask Colin from Audiomaintenance.

good luck
 
312's typically use a rev log taper don't they? Don't know. I used a stepped switch in mine. Love it! Classic API has a 25K pot for 312 builds.

The gar2520 may look a bit messy, but it sounds great!
 
I can't find any 10k resistors, even though I know I have at least 300 somewhere here. I went ahead and used an 8.2k in the zobel with the 220pf cap and the 150k load resistor. I know the 'original' schematic has a 5.1k there but 10k has been strongly suggested for the EA transformers (which I'm using). Will the missing 1.8k make an audible difference?
 
Zobel networks are a point of contention. Some folks think that they are not needed at all, and think transformers sound better without them. There may be an slight difference in sound, but it won't hurt anything to give it a try. You can always change it later.
 
anyone got ideas for LED Vu meter? Something simple like a 5 segment led meter? Anyone know anyone who has boards? Fivefish have a LED meter thats perfect but its a bit pricey for something so simple....
 
I´m using fivefish ( http://www.fivefishstudios.com/ ) led vu meters. they work fine on my mitsos api boards....
they dont offer them in the online shop, just write them an email.
 
So I just wired up another two boards, this time using the transformers from Classic API as opposed to the ones from Cinemag. However they are not working. I've started by checking the resistance across pins 1 and 4 of the input transformers (EA2622) and I get no reading, where I do get a reading when I conduct the same test on my cinemag boards. Where should I go from here?

I did use the same zobel network as I did for the cinemags, but surely this wouldn't stop the board from functioning?
 
What boards are you using? Depending upon that, you may need to manually jumper wire the primaries in parallel. 1->2 and then 3->4.
 
HI there, I will message Mitsos privately as well, but I wants to ask a couple questions on the Mitsos 312 (TRAFO output) BOM

I will be using Ed Anderson Input and Output transformers

What I would like to know is for R10 and R12 what value this should be for the Ed Anderson EA 2622 Transformer    It says on the  Mitsos BOM 312_trafo_out_parts that it is trafo dependent 
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AlLnoomi0jdjdGUwYzI0a2RQdk5PdXZ4dC1OQ3NJOGc&hl=en#gid=0


Secondly Under Switches on the same BOM,  it says to buy 3 x  4PDT latching well buying illuminated switches and  1 x 2 PDT latching well buying illuminated switches
I cannot for the life of me find them!,
If someone could lend me a link to one of the american sites -  Mouser etc...  that would be awesome!

Lastly I went to the Omeg site to find the PC16 ECO Potentiometers and couldn't :-( I know i'm pathetic and i'm embarrassed,  do I need to order the brackets separate or are they available form Omeg and if so they will know??

Thanks very very much for any help!
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
laddie.music said:
What I would like to know is for R10 and R12 what value this should be for the Ed Anderson EA 2622 Transformer   
I found this googling "EA2622 zobel", I would confirm with Jeff and/or Ed:
RL=150K, zobel = 10K + 220pF
RL= R10,
R12 is part of hte zobel, the other part is CZ, 220pF.

Secondly Under Switches on the same BOM,  it says to buy 3 x  4PDT latching well buying illuminated switches and  1 x 2 PDT latching well buying illuminated switches
I cannot for the life of me find them!,
If someone could lend me a link to one of the american sites -  Mouser etc...  that would be awesome!
I believe hairball and groveaudio both sell them. (both are in the WM and have e-stores

http://hairballaudio.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=28&products_id=87

http://www.groveaudio.com/onlinestore/switches_mpb.aspx)

I used all 4PDT switches and simply cut the bac 6 legs off of the phantom one. (make sure you cut the right legs obviously!)

Lastly I went to the Omeg site to find the PC16 ECO Potentiometers and couldn't :-( I know i'm pathetic and i'm embarrassed,  do I need to order the brackets separate or are they available form Omeg and if so they will know??
http://www.omeg.co.uk/e16typ1.htm

Depending how many channels you are building I would off-board the pots and spread the panel controls out a bit.  In which case you won't need the bracket. But, if you want the bracket, it would be the 5th one down in the list.  (If you're only building a couple of channels you may be able to get the pots as samples, if you need more, I think minimum is 10.  Also, if you offboard them, then there is no reason you HAVE to use the Omegs, you can use any 10K-25K revlog pot if you change the feedback resistor to match the pot value and adjust the feedback cap to give you the same cutoff frequency (you can use other values as well, search around here, there is a thread where it's explained very nicely by Bo Hansen and (IIRC) Harpo.
[/quote]

good luck, hope that helps!
 
Awesome, thanks sooooo much my friend!, beautiful looking boards btw, just got them (were in australia for months didn't get to see till now!)

One more question for now if it's ok

C1 and C2  you list 100-120uF 35V Panasonic FC

I'm guessing the 100 would be brighter and 120 would be more rolled off?,  although obviously I have no idea which number I should choose and why?

Thanks heaps!
 
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