Attach logo/nameplate to microphone body

[rock soderstrom]

I'm building two ultra lowbudget mics again for a newcomer band and this time I want to label them with a nameplate/logo.


The t.bone SC450 USB microphones (which I received as a gift) unfortunately have this logo engraving, which I would like to make invisible.
How would you do that? Fill it with putty (and sanding) or cover it?

I have decided to cover it up and have made a sheet of metal (0.5mm thick) which I will "tattoo" using the toner method.

How do you fix such a logo plate? Glue (with which glue) or screws/rivets?

Bonus question: Does anyone have a good tip on how to make the curve of the logo plate analogous to the microphone body? I'm not really a sheet metal worker.

Here my test body:

 

[k brown]

Hmm -

Both filling the engraving and attaching the plate are both complicated by the fact that the body has already been painted.

If you were to fill the engraving it would have been best done with auto-body glazing putty, but on bare metal.

As far as curving the plate to match body, method would depend on what metal it is, and would be complicated by the fact that the mic body is tapered. After being bent to fit to body it will have a slight 'smile curve', which you may or may not like.

As to attaching the plate, the least unctuous and most redily available would be RTV silicone, but again, best done on bare metal.

 

[ElSmurf]

If ultralow budget is your aim, here's what I would do : put the metal plate on the lower part of the body, bend it with your fingers until it's somewhat curved, then put a sturdy tie strip (or two) around it, pull that sucker tight and cut it off again. Hopefully the smaller circumference at the bottom will make it so that the curve of the metal plate will kind of align with the upper part of the body, with the engraving. Then use either superglue or double sided tape used for carpeting. With the superglue method you could use another tie strip to keep it in place while the glue cures.

But as k brown said, the best and cleanest would have been to fill the engraving with automotive putty, on bare metal, then sand it flat and finish the body.

 

[garp]

with a cone design like this one i'll certainly use the lower part of the body to bend the plate and then use epoxy glue and strong masking tape to ensure the plate to fit the curve while curing

 

[pmfalcman]

Practically all has been said above, I will just add: degrease thoroughly before glueing, no matter which method you will choose.

Also, as ElSmurf said - after afixing, press the tag down firmly for several hours if you use double sided tape. (The carpet tape should be best for it is thin.) Which will be tricky because tapered body. Zip ties may slip, I'd probably try string wrapping tightly around and holding ends with zip ties. Try beforehand

If you go the silicone route: no need for RTV kind, the regular neutral, transparent one holds like crazy. But for this you'd need the tag to perfecly hug the curve - you won't be able to wrap it with string nor zip tie the tag - it will slide around madly.
Place the mic body horizontally. Put a dab of silicone on the tag, press slightly, no silicone can get squeezed past the edges, spray fine mist of water on the tag and surrounding area (not too much!), making sure no water gets under the tag. Press firmly to squeeze the silicone out. Holding the tag steady with one finger clean the excess silicone with paper towel. It won't stick to the wet surface and will leave no unsighly marks when dried.

 

[pmfalcman]

BTW it is also best to glue bare metal to bare metal. Otherwise the bond is only as strong as the bond between the paint and the body.

If the body is powder coated - no worries, it's tough as nails.
If spray painted... It depends on prep and type of the paint. Two-part automotive also holds well. I wouldn't worry.
Worst grip has the rattle can paint.

 

[kingkorg]

I'm building two ultra lowbudget mics again for a newcomer band and this time I want to label them with a nameplate/logo.


The t.bone SC450 USB microphones (which I received as a gift) unfortunately have this logo engraving, which I would like to make invisible.
How would you do that? Fill it with putty (and sanding) or cover it?

I have decided to cover it up and have made a sheet of metal (0.5mm thick) which I will "tattoo" using the toner method.

How do you fix such a logo plate? Glue (with which glue) or screws/rivets?

Bonus question: Does anyone have a good tip on how to make the curve of the logo plate analogous to the microphone body? I'm not really a sheet metal worker.

Here my test body:

View attachment 135189

Ive made badges using plates like that. Print whatever you like on a printable transparent paper, put on top of the plate, and then cover it with transparent epoxy. Use lighter to "cook" the air bubbles out of epoxy before it settles. I stick them to the body using epoxy as well. Smooth, rounded surface is formed by itself thanks to surface tension and viscosity of the glue.

 

[rock soderstrom]

Many thanks for all the tips!

Both filling the engraving and attaching the plate are both complicated by the fact that the body has already been painted.

That's not a big problem, it's just my test body anyway. The paint can be sanded down quickly, the paint in the engraving is a bigger challenge.

As far as curving the plate to match body, method would depend on what metal it is, and would be complicated by the fact that the mic body is tapered. After being bent to fit to body it will have a slight 'smile curve', which you may or may not like.

Yes, that sounds realistic and is a challenge for me. I'm excited

I think I'll try both methods (plate vs putty) and see which works better for me.

I will show my results, no matter how bad it gets.

Thanks again @all

 

[Papa Tango Charly]

Many times i have I used epoxy to fill in the tbone markings. Then I sanded everything, the paint is perfect. Best

 

[elskardio]

Ive made badges using plates like that. Print whatever you like on a printable transparent paper, put on top of the plate, and then cover it with transparent epoxy. Use lighter to "cook" the air bubbles out of epoxy before it settles. I stick them to the body using epoxy as well. Smooth, rounded surface is formed by itself thanks to surface tension and viscosity of the glue.

Beautiful result!

Any recommandation on the type/brand of epoxy?

 

[rock soderstrom]

Many times i have I used epoxy to fill in the tbone markings. Then I sanded everything, the paint is perfect. Best

Sorry for the probably stupid question, when you say epoxy, which product do you mean exactly? Link maybe?

Any recommandation on the type/brand of epoxy?

+1

 

[kingkorg]

Beautiful result!

Any recommandation on the type/brand of epoxy?

Sorry for the probably stupid question, when you say epoxy, which product do you mean exactly? Link maybe?

+1

I just happened to stmble upon this one, and it does the job. Watch some videos on YT on how to use lighter to get the air bubbles out of epoxy. Also for extra shine use some aluminum kitchen foil. Plate - Aluminum foil - Transparent sticker with a logo - Epoxy.

 

[Papa Tango Charly]

I would use very small size sand paper.
you can also mix the epoxy with color pigment. I have repaired many metal stuff like this

 

[rock soderstrom]

I just happened to stmble upon this one, and it does the job. Watch some videos on YT on how to use lighter to get the air bubbles out of epoxy. Also for extra shine use some aluminum kitchen foil. Plate - Aluminum foil - Transparent sticker with a logo - Epoxy.

My test series continues - here is another body shell that I am preparing. Let's see if I can get some epoxy glue locally? I still have this 2k filler available, I think that would work too.

 

[rock soderstrom]

Okay, I will also test this epoxy glue...5,49€

 

[rock soderstrom]

Let's continue with my experiment in photo love story style:

As a reminder, I want to fill the t.bone engraving first, I started with UHU 2K epoxy glue. It's the first time I've worked with it, the application was easy, the smell takes some time getting used to.

After 24 hours of drying it looked like this. I built myself a device to sand away the excess epoxy.

The step drill was filled with plenty of masking tape and old clothes until it had the right diameter.

This works really well and is an efficient help to speed up the sanding process. You definitely have to leave the cut-outs for the switches on the drilling machine side, otherwise it is the perfect tool for shredding your fingers. Take care!

I started with 240 grid sandig pads. It worked well, too well. The epoxy was apparently pulled out of the engraving in one piece by the heat (which occurs during sanding). Damn. Heat and epoxy are not good friends.

However, the result of my sanding rig was so convincing that I changed my plan. Now I wanted to see if I could simply grind away the engraving?

I now start with 100, then 180, 240, 400 and 1000 grit sandpaper and I have to say it works very well. Within 10 minutes, the engraving is no longer perceptible with my fingers and barely visible. You won't see anything after priming and varnishing. Great, you can really do it that way.

If the end-bell wasn't made of copper I would probably polish the whole mic body up to chrome style, that would be easy to do.


A word about safety. If you want to replicate this, the metal naturally gets very hot during sanding, so be careful! Wear gloves or use the grinding pads as thermal spacers.

Stay tuned!