[BUILD] 1176 Rev A - Back to the beginning...

[jakearon]

Damn thats cool. Here is where Im at so far... few more things to stuff on the board. How is this looking to you all? Sorry, Im a newbie to this build.

Also, interms of C2, C7, C8, and C10, how do I know which holes to insert the pieces in?

Thanks

 

[evilcat]

Whatever holes you want, they are for different size of caps, that's all.
As for the soldering, it seems that you solder only on the bottom side, aren't you? You should re-heat the top and put a little more where it misses, my 2 cents

 

[jakearon]

Yes, I was going to do that at the end. So for something for C8, there are 11 holes, so only 2 of them will be used?

 

[evilcat]

You mean C7. Yes that's right, only 2 holes needed, from each side of the caps symbols of course.

 

[jakearon]

You mean use either of the two holes that are touching in the center? Sorry for the newbie questions!

 

[evilcat]

No, I mean (in the case of C7) for one cap leg choose whatever  of the 6 holes on one side of cap symbol, and for the other leg whatever of the 5 holes of the other side of the cap symbol.
Sorry for my english, hope I'm clear.

 

[jakearon]

Okay, thank you. Just out of curiosity, why are there those holes in the center then?

 

[evilcat]

For small caps

 

[jakearon]

WHich caps? They go under the orange things?

 

[rainton]

The "orange things" ARE caps 

capacitors - if you use bigger ones with a larger footprint
you can use the outer holes - and if you use caps with a smaller footprint you use the inner holes...

 

[jakearon]

got it... so nothing goes under the orange caps... they just take up 2 of those holes. got it. thank you and again, sorry for the Newbie questions.

 

[jakearon]

DOes anyone know of a replacement part for Sprague 225P15491XD3. It is currently sold out at Mouser and need to buy two of these capacitors for C2 and C8. Thanks

 

[evilcat]

You should try e-shops for DIY guitar amps, tube sellers and things like that. For example Tube Depot :
http://tubedepot.com/orangedrop.html

 

[jakearon]

I rather go through Mouser if possible... thank you though!

 

[jakearon]

ANybody else know of replacement parts?

 

[Harpo]

ANybody else know of replacement parts?

Don't get it. When you search in the passive components section for caps from the mouser.com site, you simply select a 1uF part, maybe axial and/or radial termination style (the pcb allows for both in this spot) to exclude SMD-parts and apply the filter.
This returns a result for 692 different electrolytic, 798 ceramic, 1704 film, 927 tantalum,... caps with wanted value 1uF for thru hole soldering.
FI click on the 692 electrolytic ones, if these are your prefered dielectric to further filter for a min.voltage rating of at least 30V (signal won't swing higher that supply rail), so select a maybe 35V rated part. Remaining result 9.
Alternatively click on the 1704 film capacitors, if these are your prefered dielectric to further filter for general purpose and a min.voltage rating of maybe 63V (higher voltage rating won't hurt, but increases size/cost). Remaining result 190.
Pick a stocked item at reasonable cost, or not...

 

[hymentoptera]

DOes anyone know of a replacement part for Sprague 225P15491XD3. It is currently sold out at Mouser and need to buy two of these capacitors for C2 and C8. Thanks

The current mouser cart has C1, C2, and C8 as all the same WIMA film cap now, and these will work just fine. If you want something different, as others have stated, there tons of vendors for vintage componants online, but new manufactured Sprague Orange Drops are soon going to be a thing of the past.

OTOH there's still some of these in stock, and it will work fine, but when they're gone they're gone
75-715P200V0.15
has an 18mm lead spacing, so you'll have to bend the leads in a bit for use at C2 and C8, and this cap is pretty big too, but it should still fit if you take your time and install them last. it might be tight fit at C1.

btw i found these by searching Mouser for a ".15uF orange drop". it also looks like there's some new cornell dublier items coming in soon too.

 

[ilikethesun]

Hello,

first I'd like to say thanks for all informations on this forum !

I just finished a dual 1176 rev D and it working great !!
Yesterday I finished a mono Revision A but at calibration time I got issues :

Sound is not very powerful and the VU Meter doesn't move... no modulation even if I boost Input and output to maximum... Do you know what can I test ? Do you need pictures to help me ?

Thanks !


EDIT :
I just changed the view meter with an other and it works now ! I tried again with the hairballaudio View Meter, doesn't work.So I'm sure that the view Mter from hairball doesn't work...
Do you think I can open it to fix it or something ??
The problem is that the other View Meter I have is not pretty, light is sooooo RED colour

 

[evilcat]

You have to begin somewhere, so why not at the beginning ?!! Send a test signal like 1kHz @ 0 dB and check your signal before and after your T-pad to see if it works, then before and after the transformer. Then if it's ok, put the comp in bypass and see if signal go through...etc

 

[ilikethesun]

I just changed the view meter with an other and it works now ! I tried again with the hairballaudio View Meter, doesn't work.So I'm sure that the view Mter from hairball doesn't work...
Do you think I can open it to fix it or something ??
The problem is that the other View Meter I have is not pretty, light is sooooo RED colour...