[BUILD] 1176 Rev F/G - new board, new transformer!

[Squarey-SINEfeld]

Im currently building the Rev F, and I was wondering if you can use ceramic capacitors in place of mica caps.
Also, can I use a 63V/.1uF/10% capacitor in place of a 100V/.1uF/5% capacitor? It seems I should have double checked the mouser cart against the Hairball BOM. Please forgive me for the newbie question. Thanks!

SS

 

[Echo North]

Im currently building the Rev F, and I was wondering if you can use ceramic capacitors in place of mica caps.
Also, can I use a 63V/.1uF/10% capacitor in place of a 100V/.1uF/5% capacitor? It seems I should have double checked the mouser cart against the Hairball BOM. Please forgive me for the newbie question. Thanks!

SS

yes to all

 

[Squarey-SINEfeld]

Thank you sir. That takes a lot of worry off of my mind!

-SS

 

[badasstommyd]

Hi, I'm currently on my first build which is the Hairball 1176 Rev G.  I appear to have a few parts missing, and probably should have checked the hairball BOM against the Mouser cart.  I'm missing the 2k Q bias Trimmer, R38 and R39 the 1.2k resistors, R59 the 3.9k resistor, plus parts C35 and C28 are supposed to be 0.1uf ceramic or film capacitors, instead I have 2 x 1uf film capacitors, will these work in place?
with regards to the trimmer; is that the same as the other 2k trimmer included on the board? Does anyone know of anywhere else in the UK I could obtain one of these from as I can only find the ones that Mouser sell, and they have to be shipped from the states.

would this be a suitable alternative?
http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/2k-Wr3296w-10-3-8-Cermet-Trimmer-Pot-68-1944

 

[Echo North]

Hi, I'm currently on my first build which is the Hairball 1176 Rev G.  I appear to have a few parts missing, and probably should have checked the hairball BOM against the Mouser cart.  I'm missing the 2k Q bias Trimmer, R38 and R39 the 1.2k resistors, R59 the 3.9k resistor, plus parts C35 and C28 are supposed to be 0.1uf ceramic or film capacitors, instead I have 2 x 1uf film capacitors, will these work in place?
with regards to the trimmer; is that the same as the other 2k trimmer included on the board? Does anyone know of anywhere else in the UK I could obtain one of these from as I can only find the ones that Mouser sell, and they have to be shipped from the states.

would this be a suitable alternative?
http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/2k-Wr3296w-10-3-8-Cermet-Trimmer-Pot-68-1944

Remember the 2k zero adjust is a panel mounted pot.  Are you sure you didn't use that in the trimmer spot instead of over in the QBias?

 

[badasstommyd]

Hi, I'm currently on my first build which is the Hairball 1176 Rev G.  I appear to have a few parts missing, and probably should have checked the hairball BOM against the Mouser cart.  I'm missing the 2k Q bias Trimmer, R38 and R39 the 1.2k resistors, R59 the 3.9k resistor, plus parts C35 and C28 are supposed to be 0.1uf ceramic or film capacitors, instead I have 2 x 1uf film capacitors, will these work in place?
with regards to the trimmer; is that the same as the other 2k trimmer included on the board? Does anyone know of anywhere else in the UK I could obtain one of these from as I can only find the ones that Mouser sell, and they have to be shipped from the states.

would this be a suitable alternative?
http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/2k-Wr3296w-10-3-8-Cermet-Trimmer-Pot-68-1944

Remember the 2k zero adjust is a panel mounted pot.  Are you sure you didn't use that in the trimmer spot instead of over in the QBias?

After sending that message earlier, it dawned on me that's exactly what I have done.

with regards to the 0.1uf capacitors, I was supposed to receive 0.1uf but received 1uf capacitors.  My local electronics store stock 100nf capacitors with a 20% tolerance, is it possible to use these instead?

 

[Squarey-SINEfeld]

So I have a fully assembled Rev F that compresses, and sounds great. After turning it on and off a couple of times, it likes to blow fuses. Does anyone know what I might be doing wrong?

-SS

 

[Echo North]

Hi, I'm currently on my first build which is the Hairball 1176 Rev G.  I appear to have a few parts missing, and probably should have checked the hairball BOM against the Mouser cart.  I'm missing the 2k Q bias Trimmer, R38 and R39 the 1.2k resistors, R59 the 3.9k resistor, plus parts C35 and C28 are supposed to be 0.1uf ceramic or film capacitors, instead I have 2 x 1uf film capacitors, will these work in place?
with regards to the trimmer; is that the same as the other 2k trimmer included on the board? Does anyone know of anywhere else in the UK I could obtain one of these from as I can only find the ones that Mouser sell, and they have to be shipped from the states.

would this be a suitable alternative?
http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/2k-Wr3296w-10-3-8-Cermet-Trimmer-Pot-68-1944

Remember the 2k zero adjust is a panel mounted pot.  Are you sure you didn't use that in the trimmer spot instead of over in the QBias?

After sending that message earlier, it dawned on me that's exactly what I have done.

with regards to the 0.1uf capacitors, I was supposed to receive 0.1uf but received 1uf capacitors.  My local electronics store stock 100nf capacitors with a 20% tolerance, is it possible to use these instead?

As long as the voltage rating is sufficient.  Film caps, 35 or 50V

 

[Echo North]

So I have a fully assembled Rev F that compresses, and sounds great. After turning it on and off a couple of times, it likes to blow fuses. Does anyone know what I might be doing wrong?

-SS

In rush current.  make sure you're using slo-blo fuses.  You could increase it a little say350mA.  If you still blow say 500mA slo blow you've got a problem.

 

[Squarey-SINEfeld]

A bump in mA did the trick! The compressor sounds great! Thank you Mike.

 

[sktellis]

When I plugged my Rev F in, I heard a pop and had smoke coming from the area around Q8. I opened the bottom of the chassis to take a look at the pcb and noticed that positive side of CR1 was not soldered in all of the way. This is my third build and I must have just overlooked that. My question is I need to find out what blew... Was it Q8, CR1, C14 or even R40? Nothing looks burnt.. With my DMM I do get a reading for all of those parts listed. I thought if something blew, then I would have a reading of nothing.

Any help would be appreciated!

 

[Finlaywatt]

So i finished my rev G build a few months back and everything was working fine, however I was having a play with the 1176 today and realised if i turn the input and output right up or nearly right up it suddenly gets very distorted, and if i fiddle with the in/out levels you can hear radio through it. My guess would be unshielded cable, but surely it'd be heard before it was maxed? Why would it do it so suddenly?

 

[Kimmosavilampi]

Hi!

Im currently building My Rev F And i am totally confused when it comes to wiring the Ratio switch Pad wires, ive watched Hairball Audio´s "Wiring the Rev A/D/F with a Hairball Case" And i dont seem to get things right.


Problem 1# The pads in the ratio board

1-18
2-BLK
3-20
4-GRN
5-21
6-15

Is this Pad meant for the REV A, D or the F?


Is saw that you Mike told that GRN should go to pad 22? While mine goes to Lug B on the Attack Pot?

I am very confused, should i wire the 4-GRn to pad 22? I wired mine as the "http://mnats.net/1176_reva-d_hairball_wiring_attack_release.html" showed.


I know i should look at the schematics.. but to be honest im not that good at reading Schematics, unfortunately..

Could anybody help me on this?

So, i wired my ratio switch as shown in hairball attack release wiring..



I really need help with this. Anybody?

 

[Echo North]

Hi!

Im currently building My Rev F And i am totally confused when it comes to wiring the Ratio switch Pad wires, ive watched Hairball Audio´s "Wiring the Rev A/D/F with a Hairball Case" And i dont seem to get things right.


Problem 1# The pads in the ratio board

1-18
2-BLK
3-20
4-GRN
5-21
6-15

Is this Pad meant for the REV A, D or the F?

All of them.

Is saw that you Mike told that GRN should go to pad 22? While mine goes to Lug B on the Attack Pot?

I am very confused, should i wire the 4-GRn to pad 22? I wired mine as the "http://mnats.net/1176_reva-d_hairball_wiring_attack_release.html" showed.

Follow that MNATS guide. GRN and BLK and 22 are all wired to the switch on the attack pot.

Mike

 

[Kimmosavilampi]

Hi!

Im currently building My Rev F And i am totally confused when it comes to wiring the Ratio switch Pad wires, ive watched Hairball Audio´s "Wiring the Rev A/D/F with a Hairball Case" And i dont seem to get things right.


Problem 1# The pads in the ratio board

1-18
2-BLK
3-20
4-GRN
5-21
6-15

Is this Pad meant for the REV A, D or the F?

All of them.

Is saw that you Mike told that GRN should go to pad 22? While mine goes to Lug B on the Attack Pot?

I am very confused, should i wire the 4-GRn to pad 22? I wired mine as the "http://mnats.net/1176_reva-d_hairball_wiring_attack_release.html" showed.

Follow that MNATS guide. GRN and BLK and 22 are all wired to the switch on the attack pot.

Mike

Thanks for a damn quick answer Mike!

Okay then ive done Problem#1 right from the beginning.


Problem#2 Output and "0" Set Potentiometers

Ive wired these as shown in MNATs wiring guide, BUT The Rev F´s Pads are 15,16,17. Not 16,15,17 As shown in the pictures.


So i just made red go to 15, black to 17 and ground to 16 as the REV F Pcb shows, have ive done this the correct way?


Am at this point,

"Now attach this assembly to the output pot. Tie the two shields together and solder them in place. Secure the inner conductor of the shielded ratio board wire to the CW lug of the output pot. Solder all connections."

So where does that thinner wire go to? it said something about the ratio board but..where?

Sorry for my english, im Swedish. I got confused here as they dont show exactly where thath thinner wire goes to, ive just soldered them that way though..Ive been thinking if it goes to 6-15 on the Ratio PCB board..am i right?

Ill attach a picture from MNATS wiring guide where ive marked the wire im talking about. Getting a headache of this but im determined to get this done tonight!


/Kimmo

http://cdn.imghack.se/medium/6cd4650b8ab0287af85494fa7d61386e.png

 

[Kimmosavilampi]

Now ive come to the point where ive wired the whole unit!


Problem#1

But i dont get a signal passing through..im wondering if my shielded cables between the T-Pot and the transfomrer and so on o bad. So maybe i have to check that up.


I can adjust the zero db pot though, It reacs to that pot in GR mode, when i switch to +4, Ratio to 4:1, input to zero, output to zero, attack switched off, release on 7. the meter goes down to 0.

Now i feed a 1khz sinewave from my DAW to the input and put up the Input and output to something over halfway up, nothing happens.. And neither if i turn the the whole way upp.


What have i done wrong?..

I do get 4 Ohm on the Input XLR in the back though..hm..


Problem#2, How do i know when the Trimpots are all way up? "clockwise" (ive put the trimpot the same way  as described in the PCB) & Don Bonins Q bias video, "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Uuk1Y7M2D8" For the REV D



Ive adjusted the q bias pot clockwise carefully but never felt the stop :S...im afraid to break the resistor if i go to far..which pins in the trimpot can i measure to see how many ohms is going through?


Is it required to have output connected also for it to show signs of life due to the output transformer?..that would be unlogical though.


Some help would be more than welcome!





//Kimmo
A beauty is what this is though!



Thanks!

 

[Kimmosavilampi]

! more thing im wondering about, sorry for all the posts.


Why does the PCB have  a 1uf Capacitor on the PCB, but when you order the BOm from Hairball audio you only get 1?

I had to buy another 1uf metal film capacitor from the store..but unfortunately it was +-10 %..but it should not be the factor to my issue right now. or that what i think though,


But still, a answer to my earler post up above would be a gift from up above!


Many thanks!

//Kimmo

 

[Kimmosavilampi]

! more thing im wondering about, sorry for all the posts.


Why does the PCB have  a 1uf Capacitor on the PCB, but when you order the BOm from Hairball audio you only get 1?

I had to buy another 1uf metal film capacitor from the store..but unfortunately it was +-10 %..but it should not be the factor to my issue right now. or that what i think though,


But still, a answer to my earler post up above would be a gift from up above!


Many thanks!

//Kimmo

On the C1, right where the Input is on the PCB.

 

[user 52987]

Hi,

I finished my rev G build. Unfortunately it's not working as it should, I get distorted noise, some audio sometimes but mostly noise. My power section is producing the proper voltages where it should. At this point I'm clueless as to where the problem is. It's really difficult to get the information of how the wiring should be or what should and should not be on the board. If you guys could offer some help it would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[Kimmosavilampi]

I noticed that i get continuity between the  output - and + on the output of the Altran C3837-1 .. Should this happen? Maybe this is the issue of no sound or life shown in the meter?..or maybe i should set the trimpots halfway up and try again to see if it gives anything.. very wierd..