[BUILD] CAPI Dual VPR & 51x Floor Box PSU~Official Support Thread

[Notes2k]

I'm happy to inform you that my build was a success!

At first the 48 V fuse blew. I had read here on the forum something similar regarding a Shadow Hills Mono Gama, so that module was quickly suspected. After I removed that module the 48 V fuse has held up. I guess I'll just sell the Mono Gama then.

Big thanks to Udo, Jeff, Volker and this whole great community!

Is there any way to stop the Mono Gama's from blowing the 48 V fuse?  I'm having the same issue.

 

[PetezaSlice]

Dual VPR build here. Just at the stage of measuring JP1 after turning unit on for the first time.

Problems.

My -16v, +16v,  #1 LEDS aren't lighting. +48v LED is on. #2  -16v LED not on, #2 +16v is on but not as bright as +48v LED

Measuring the JP1 terminals with my DMM, i'm just getting numbers jumping all over, nothing that seems representative of what it should be. My DMM is the DMR-4200. tried using 200mv or 2v.

 

[PetezaSlice]

It seems I did not have most the toroidal leads properly situated in the JP3 terminals - this is my first time working with these components - what am I doing wrong? How do I get the most solid dependable connection with these? I tinned the leads but to me in my mind - that hardens the leads so they don't clamp down as well in the terminal... Did I over tin the leads?

Do I just have to be more precise and make sure the lead is actually touching the contact and then clamp down? I sort of just, stuck them in... and screwed down without much care... What is the specific micro art of these little green terminals that results in a dependable connection?

 

[jsteiger]

I am not sure how to answer fitting the tinned leads into the screw headers. It is very basic and user friendly in my mind. You ask what you are doing wrong but we cannot see what have done so hard to answer. Maybe some pics would help.

If the LED's aren't illuminating, check DCV at the respective fuse and see if you have proper voltages. If you do, then the LED's are in backwards. If you don't then its another problem. If the illumination is not similar, your voltages going to the LED's are way off and/or you populated some wrong resistors somewhere.

Not sure of your DMM but nothing we are working with is in the 200mV or 2V range, its all above that.

 

[PetezaSlice]

All LEDS are on, but sometimes not... and that seems to change as soon as I wiggle one of the wires. leave it alone, and then sometimes the LED fades back off.  then I wiggle again and then back on.

From what I can see, I have all the wires just as exactly as what is show in the pic.

+48v is definitely way brighter than the  16v LEDS,.. %75 brighter.

Maybe some of the toroidal leads need to be longer

 

[jsteiger]

If you can pull on the secondary leads of the toroid and they feel like they will come out of the screw terminals...they are no where near tight enough. DO NOT try this when the unit is under mains power.

What is your DCV at the 48V output? Check the series R that is before the 48V LED. The schematic is published for this build.

 

[PetezaSlice]

They're all as tight as they will go before they just feel like they are slipping and no longer tightening.

All the LEDs are on now and seem solid. I made a few leads a bit longer.  hopefully that fixes the problem.


but,

my DMM is acting weird, maybe needs a new batter so will try that before anything else.

I thought in the build guide I was looking for .5v for 48v and .7v for the rest???


*edit*

 

[jsteiger]

I thought in the build guide I was looking for .5v for 48v and .7v for the rest???

I assume by this you mean 48.5V and +/-16.7V?

Check your R placement if you have the above voltages dialed in and an LED is too bright. My hint was in my last response.

 

[PetezaSlice]

am I using my DMM wrong? I'm not sure I'm picking up anything anywhere...

 

[[silent:arts]]

am I using my DMM wrong? I'm not sure I'm picking up anything anywhere...

possible. for measuring your output voltage it needs to be set to measure DC, and you need to measure against ground.

 

[PetezaSlice]

The grounds weren't making contact properly in the green terminals... I don't really get what I'm doing wrong here... And either I'm doing something wrong, or these green terminals aren't a very quality part?? The screw doesn't really clamp down solid and if over tightened, it loses its grip in the casing.  I'm both having a problem getting these terminals to properly make contact, and also the screw part not really squeezing down, the screw just sort of slips without tightening.

 

[kante1603]

Hello,


seriously,I don't trust this anymore,and I have never seen them fail.
Looks like you're doing something wrong......?
Please show some clear pics of these connections here,best from an angle so we can see how the wires enter the holes.
I have seen people putting wires in with a massive amount of isolation material so the wires were clamped down by plastic,not metal.This would be wrong of course.
Also I have experienced that some people didn't understand how the clamps work and tried to put wires into the wrong hole (there are different styles of connectors,some just clamp down with the screw,some use a kind of spring under the screws,some are my prefered "elevator types").
Pics will help!


Best regards,


Udo.

 

[PetezaSlice]

my thought is I over tinned the leads so they are too hard and aren't clamping down, could this be it?

 

[kante1603]

my thought is I over tinned the leads so they are too hard and aren't clamping down, could this be it?

As said shows us some pics please,maybe also one of the leads that are tinned.
Did the tin really flow? Sometimes the lead ends are corroded,are dirty or both.
If you try to tin them you'll end up in a "conductivity nightmare".


Udo.

 

[jsteiger]

As Udo says, they are high quality Phoenix products. I have never had a customer with these problems. I hate to offend you but I am pretty certain this is operator error.

We cannot judge anything you are doing without seeing some pics.

 

[PetezaSlice]

I'm pretty sure either I'm tinning these leads too much so that the tab inside the connector isn't compressing the lead when screwed down.

The other thing I'm maybe doing wrong is..... what side of that little tab that moves up and down do I put the lead in? Do I put the lead inbetween the PCB and this metal tab so that the lead is squeezed between the PCB side and the tab, or do I put the lead inbetween the tab and the screw and squeeze up???

 

[kante1603]

Hello,


both Jeff and I asked for pics,three times now.


Udo.

 

[PetezaSlice]

pic 1

 

[PetezaSlice]

pic2

 

[jsteiger]

Some of those are tinned a little heavy but should work fine. Make sure there are no stray strands when you insert them.

From the factory, the clamps inside are wide open with the screws turned fully CCW. Insert your lead and tighten the screw CW. The clamp will move upward and crush the wire. Make sure the wire's insulation is not inside the clamp or it will hinder a solid connection to the wire. You should be able to pull on the wire and it will not come out. You cannot use a tiny jeweler's screwdriver. You need a bigger sized jeweler's screwdriver to get a little grip leverage. Much like the situation you had with the high/low screws on the rack.

If you are unsure of your starting point, back all screws out CCW and start over.