[BUILD] CAPI Dual VPR & 51x Floor Box PSU~Official Support Thread

[foesters]

ok thanks

So this should be right.

Yeah the reason I say 1.5a fuse, is because I don't see any 1.25a fuses.
In my package from volker there was only the 160mA, 2,5a and 1,5a?
Do need to get a 1,25a fuse from the shop ?

 

[Harpo]

So this should be right.

yepp. (just hope, the fuse was blowing faster than your transformer windings and maybe resulting followups)

Yeah the reason I say 1.5a fuse, is because I don't see any 1.25a fuses.
In my package from volker there was only the 160mA, 2,5a and 1,5a?
Do need to get a 1,25a fuse from the shop ?

Doesn't matter in this case, but try to be a little more exact in your posts. 'the 160mA, 2,5a and 1,5a' would be 3 fuses and rating is missing their fusing characteristic. There are 5 fuses on pcb and one inside the IEC socket.

Both 1.5A/t or 1.25A/t will do for fusing your AC mains connection.
The 1.5A/t fuse from Volker once was a fuse, so you'd need a replacement anyway.

 

[foesters]

I blew the two T2.5AL250C fuses.
Still got two 1,5A250V fuses and one 250CM160(or 160M/C250 fuse, don't exactly know how to read this) fuse.

So I use the 1,5A250V for the IEC socket
On the PCB I used in F1 the 250CM160 fuse and for F2-F5 I used four 1,5A250V fuses. Like the manual said.
Why are the T2.5AL250C fuses included if I don't need them?


Btw: sorry for my stupid questions, but i'm not super familiar with fuses. And the manual is a bit confusing because of the European 230v wiring. 

 

[foesters]

Is that correct?

 

[brettooo]

Hi guys,

I'm pretty new to building stuff, I have built a few pre amp modules and am self taught so any help appreciated!

Im building a VPR PSU though my multi meter readings seem to be wrong ( and turing the trim pots seems not to be changing anything) so perhaps I have gone wrong somewhere ?

With the mutimeter switched to dc and the black end on the star ground stud my readings are -

+48 = 0.2
-V # 2 = -.08
+V# 2 = 0.8
+16v = 0.00
-16 v = -0.4
+48 = 0.2

also not sure which +48 corresponds to the trim pot ?

Any help much appreciated!

Brett

 

[jsteiger]

The +48V terminals are a mult so you can use either one when adjusting.

Something is not right though because at start up, the measurements will be very close to their target like I specify in the build guide. You basically have no DC readings. Is the mains switch set to 230V (since you are in Europe) ?. Is the mains fuse blown for some reason? Do you have the proper AC readings if you probe at the inlet header from the toroid?

 

[brettooo]

Hi Jeff,

Yes switched to 230v , main fuse in tact. Though I did trip my wall sockets fuse first time as i had a jumper going across the bottom row of the 115v/230v switch as in the build pictures ( though took this out).

Could you tell me how to probe from the inlet header from the toroid ? ( as I don'r know these terms sorry! ).

Thanks,

Brett

 

[brettooo]

Here are some images of the build if it helps. I use electrical tape on some ends to make sure there was no metal work showing though looks a but messy.

 

[Harpo]

Yes switched to 230v , main fuse in tact. Though I did trip my wall sockets fuse first time ...

will trip again with neutral (your white wire) and safety ground (your green/yellow wire) flipped at your IEC socket.

... as i had a jumper going across the bottom row of the 115v/230v switch as in the build pictures ( though took this out).

Using the mains voltage selector switch, without this jumper you will miss the needed transformer primary windings series connection for 230VAC mains (not parallel for 115VAC mains). Have a look some posts above for another european hookup (obviously using a different transformer)

 

[brettooo]

Yes switched to 230v , main fuse in tact. Though I did trip my wall sockets fuse first time ...

will trip again with neutral (your white wire) and safety ground (your green/yellow wire) flipped at your IEC socket.

... as i had a jumper going across the bottom row of the 115v/230v switch as in the build pictures ( though took this out).

Using the mains voltage selector switch, without this jumper you will miss the needed transformer primary windings series connection for 230VAC mains (not parallel for 115VAC mains). Have a look some posts above for another european hookup (obviously using a different transformer)

Hi Harpo ,

thanks for the response. I see I had the ground switched now, that makes sense . Does this mean if I swap them over ( and add the jumper on the Voltage selector switch) I am ok to do the Voltage checks or do I need to do further re wiring ?

Thanks a lot,

Brett

 

[Harpo]

Does this mean if I swap them over ( and add the jumper on the Voltage selector switch) I am ok to do the Voltage checks or do I need to do further re wiring ?

Probably, but hard to see on your pics and you want to build this correct and safe.
Have a look at the 1st.page of this thread for a visual crossreference and that this matches your transformer and your transformers datasheet or printed on label (colour coding is not standarized, so a different type/vendor of this transformer will/might use a different scheme). Your mains voltage selector switch hookup might look something like http://www.classicapi.com/catalog/images/FB-build/FB-PSU-build-28.gif for the 51x-toroid, Jeff is selling. For the european type you can get thru Volker [silent:arts], have a look some posts above.

 

[brettooo]

Probably, but hard to see on your pics and you want to build this correct and safe.
Have a look at the 1st.page of this thread for a visual crossreference and that this matches your transformer and your transformers datasheet or printed on label (colour coding is not standarized, so a different type/vendor of this transformer will/might use a different scheme). Your mains voltage selector switch hookup might look something like http://www.classicapi.com/catalog/images/FB-build/FB-PSU-build-28.gif for the 51x-toroid, Jeff is selling. For the european type you can get thru Volker [silent:arts], have a look some posts above.
[/quote]

Thanks again for the answer Harpo, my mains and voltage switches now have exactly the same wiring as the pictures in the beginning of the tread . Though my transformer has black leads that go to ac48v on the pcb (instead of white ones) though I read earlier in the thread that that was ok?

I tried to read the voltages though now it says 2.4 on the +48v , and the the +16 and +48 lights are now not coming on , so must be still going wrong somewhere ?

Thanks in advance for any help,

Brett

 

[jsteiger]

....Though my transformer has black leads that go to ac48v on the pcb (instead of white ones) though I read earlier in the thread that that was ok?...

Yes that is fine. For the US toroids, the black leads for the 48V windings indicate that is a dual VPR toroid. The white leads are for the 51x version. Besides the part#, that is how I tell them apart.

 

[brettooo]

....Though my transformer has black leads that go to ac48v on the pcb (instead of white ones) though I read earlier in the thread that that was ok?...

Yes that is fine. For the US toroids, the black leads for the 48V windings indicate that is a dual VPR toroid. The white leads are for the 51x version. Besides the part#, that is how I tell them apart.

Thanks Jeff,

Any idea why it's not working ? Do I need to switch any of the wires to the european versions ( though i have the U.S transformer) ?

Thanks,

Brett

 

[saxmonster]

What are the sizes for this PSU, tried looking everywhere but can't seem to find anything.  I probably just over looked it knowing me. Was thinking about getting one of the floor PSU and selling my original 51X rack version PSU.

-Scott

 

[jsteiger]

It's appx 6 3/8" wide, 4" tall and 13 3/8" long.

 

[saxmonster]

Thanks Jeff.  Hey Jeff would a male 7 pin connector fit or would i be able to mod it, where the wire goes into the psu?  I have 2 nice cables I would hate to take apart, hahahahah.

 

[jsteiger]

It would not fit without some work. I do have some spare front panels from my proto run if that will help you.

 

[nolivdacom]

Hello!

I had some issues with my +16V rails using two Phoenix Audio DRS-1R (remember?).
I changed the LM350 +16V regulator for a new one and all seems to be find! I measured +16,7V (or so) as It should be.
BUT, I used a slow blow fuse (T1,5A/250V) in order to fix my problem. Then, I tried with a fast blow fuse (F1,5A/250V)...
First start: ok for the +16V rail but with a little spike from the fuse.
Second start: fuse is dead.

It really seems that Phoenix Audio modules suck up to much current at start up.

Can I use another fuse with value like 2A but with fast caracteristics in order to have fast protection for my modules?

Do you think there is another problem?
Could it be some bad wiring with leakage current or something like this?

Thanks for your help

best

 

[nolivdacom]

Today, I received a mail from phoenix audio with the DRS1R/500 specs :

the +16v rail of the Phoenix DRS1R/500 is 118ma (which is within the API VPR spec) and being that the unit is Class A discrete the inrush is very slightly higher.

What do you think about that? These modules can't blow a 1,5A fast blow fuse, isn't it?
What's wrong with my set up???  :-[

thanks for your help!!!