Maybe you swapped some leads with one of the output transformers? Easy enough to correct.pitone said:Hello everyone!
Recently I built two VP28 and they both seems to be perfectly working, but one is out of phase ... :-[
I swapped slots and made some checks with cables and everything so I'm pretty sure one unit is phase reversed, when I flip the switch works as expected. No big deal, I could live with that but where did I go wrong?
Could it be something wrong while building an OpAmp?
If someone of you ever had the same problem please let me know, thank you very much!
Have a nice weekend
Roberto
jsteiger said:Maybe you swapped some leads with one of the output transformers? Easy enough to correct.
You can swap the red and black leads from one of the transformers.pitone said:Hi, thanks!
Tried to swap the opamps from the other unit and checked the wiring of the (Liz) transformers and all seems to be correct but no luck so far, the same unit is out of phase...
jsteiger said:You can swap the red and black leads from one of the transformers.
All are classic signs of a bad solder joint. I would touch things up specifically on the HPF PCB as well as the 5-pin header that connects the boards.javibigcity said:Hello everybody,
This is my first message after long years of lurking and assimilating valuable info from you guys. So first and foremost: a big thanks to all the contributors. Hopefully I can become one over time.
I have this pair of VP28 Litz preamps and man they sound great. To be honest I almost exclusively use them to amplify the output of my passive summing mixer, and so far so good (had them for one year now).
Yesterday night, however, one of them started to act funny, in these two ways:
- The HPF switch, when in the -12dB position, entirely cuts the preamp output. In addition to that, when touching the switch with my fingers, I can hear a low but audible intermittent random ground (? ) noise. The noise stops when I touch ground anywhere else in my mixing rig.
- I hardly use the switch, but more problematic (and maybe related somehow?) is the fact that this unit suddenly reproduces low freqs around 4-5 dB louder than the other unit. I realized this cause the mix yesterday was totally wrong, pan-wise. It was caused by the synth-bass although it was mono and centered in the DAW and in the summing mixer. So I used white noise to test the outputs of both the summing mixer and the CAPIs and apparently everything was ok. Then I tried with tones and it became clear that 80Hz and 100Hz were louder in one of the CAPIs (or quieter in the other). I did not go beyond those two freqs.
The -6dB position in the switch works ok, as so do the freq buttons.
Can a faulty HPF switch be causing all this trouble? Any hint would be very appreciated.
Thanks a lot,
Javi
javibigcity said:Hopefully that solves both issues (esp. the second one).
I'll do that between tody and tomorrow and keep you posted.
Thanks so much!
Javi
Excellent! Glad you got it solved. Now back to making music...javibigcity said:It definitely solved the issue. There was a bad solder point in one of the pins of the HPF connector to the main board.
Thanks a lot : ]
tydbowl said:Thanks Jeff,
Here are my measurements on the output transformer leads...
Black to Red, 15.7Ω
Pink to Gray, 32.8Ω
Violet to Orange 31.1Ω
I went ahead and measured other colors together after you mentioning there should be no measurable resistance between the other colors. I am getting resistance between these other leads..
Grey and Orange 33.3
Grey and Violet 63.7
Pink and Violet 31.1
Faulty output transformers are very rare and unlikely but sh!t does happen because of humans. If your TP voltages read good until the final output, I would look into T3. Make sure all T3 leads are desoldered from the PCB and none are touching each other. You should only getting resistance from end to end of the following windings.PerspectiveSound said:I'm a bit unclear which of the transformers T2 or T3 to measure, I seem to be detecting resistance between these same leads on both of them, could they both be faulty? I should say the three working channels sound amazing and can pass a stereo image at unity gain and all the transformers were packaged together. Thanks for any help y'all could give me
OK then, this transformer is likely fine.PerspectiveSound said:Thanks Jeff, I checked the resistances on T3 and got close to the proper values for black to red - 16.3 ohm, gray to pink - 33.1, violet to orange - 31.7, however I seemed to get very high resistances between most other combinations for example 6 MOhm between black - gray, 8.5 MOhm black -pink, 5.0 MOhm gray - violet. I feel like I could be making a mistake however the proper resistances consistently show up as well and the meter reads zero at rest.
On the VP28 just replace the four 10Ω R's. The testing is pretty self explanatory if you have looked thru the VP2x build guide. Make sure you have the proper DC voltages at the V sockets and make sure the signal sockets are not directly shorted to ground.Homestudio said:Hi all, I built a couple of gar 2550s and plugged them into my good working vp28. burned out PR1 and PR3 on the board. I'll replace all four resistors. Is there anything else I sould check on the vp28 before fireing back up? I'd like to test the op amp sockets before I install my tested gar 2550s but need the test procedure. Can a man get some help? Thanks
Well, if the 10Ω damping R's smoked there is definitely something wrong on the opamp builds. Did you double check the larger BD transistors? Posting on the gar2520 build thread is best off from here.Homestudio said:Thanks Jeff for the quick response. The only things I see on the gar 2520 are some bridges on the pens to other points that I thought were ok. I'll clean those up and see what happens. Everything else looks good. Thanks, Patrick
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