[BUILD] GIX-51X tube preamp

[maq3396]

Thanks Rodney!

 

[Toure14]

where are people sourcing their lundahl trafos and tubes?

 

[kvothe]

Hi Toure,

You can get both the Lundahls at: http://www.canford.co.uk/

silent:arts also sells Haufe input transformers (Haufe ST8456), just 30€+vat each.

For tubes I highly recommend these Teslas 802S (White print around 60´s yellow print around 70´s) if you want to go for Telefunken quality.

http://www.ebay.de/itm/THE-ULTIMATE-NOS-Matched-Pair-of-Tesla-ECC802S-12au7-ECC82-tubes-Ships-from-US-/181030421911?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2a26410597

one guy also has these black plates with white print, but I don´t know much about them.

http://www.ebay.de/itm/1-Paar-original-TESLA-ECC802S-Rohren-tubes-ribbed-plate-neuwertiger-Zustand-/171039824397?pt=DE_TV_Video_Audio_Elektronenr%C3%B6hren_Valves&
hash=item27d2c49a0d

regards, Kvothe

 

[Toure14]

Yeah I didn't see the LL1578 trafo which is 1:10 which I want the most I can get out of this pre. plus Tube wise I'm looking for warmth, presence, and color. will I get that with the Telefunken tubes? i though maybe RCA, Mullard, or Apmrex might give me that sound. I hear the telefunken sound is very clen and stresses the high end a bit more.

 

[kvothe]

Nice NOS RCA, Amperex or Mullard are a good way to go for character and colour,  though they sound quite different from each other. My second pair will have NOS RCA, or Amperex Bugle Boys, if I can afford those.

A question concerning resistors: Is a 250V rating for metal film resistors ok, or should I use the 300V or higher rated?

thank´s for the cart by the way, Toure!

 

[100WChris]

Hi!
I want to design my own frontpanel... can anybody share a ftp-file or a doc with the dimensions for the GIX-51X-Front with me?
Thanks!
Chris

 

[Winetree]

Wanna place an order for parts.
Is the Mouser Cart up-to-date?

 

[gemini86]

Here's a front panel dimensional drawing I (hastily) drew up. It's in metric, so google is your friend for conversion.

Faceplate Layout

Winetree: You'll have to check with Toure14 about his mouser cart.

 

[100WChris]

Thanks Rodney!
metric is cool, i live in germany
i made a template for FrontDesign.

It´s based on Rodneys dimensions but it is not verified!!!
Maybe someone can compare it to a real faceplate, just to make sure i made no mistake!

You have to rename the file to "fpd" (it is not allowed to upload an fpd-file).
Chris

 

[Toure14]

Thanks Rodney!
metric is cool, i live in germany
i made a template for FrontDesign.

It´s based on Rodneys dimensions but it is not verified!!!
Maybe someone can compare it to a real faceplate, just to make sure i made no mistake!

You have to rename the file to "fpd" (it is not allowed to upload an fpd-file).
Chris

How do you view it? Your link opens up all weird for me. Do you have a better upload or different picture?

 

[mulletchuck]

rename the file from whatever.txt to whatever.fpd, then open it with whatever app opens a fpd file. 

 

[100WChris]

Its a template for the app FrontDesign from schaeffer:
You have to download their FrontDesign-Software.
Than replace .txt with .fpd and you can design your own faceplate and let scheaffer or someone else with a CNC-machine make the frontplate.

http://www.schaeffer-ag.de/index.php?id=3&L=1

 

[Toure14]

got it

 

[gemini86]

I actually have an fpd file, I think I posted it in the original thread, let's see if I can find it.

Okay I found it, but I'm not sure it's up to date. I'll post the last revised file I have while at lunch.

 

[100WChris]

Hi!
First Version of my faceplate 

Chris

 

[qmp audio]

Nice.  here's mine.  I did it so it matches all of the other modules i have done.  The switch holes are bored in the back so that the mounting nuts will go on underneath.  Added 2 small screw holes so i can use small black screw to mount the plate to the bracket,  instead of the switch nuts doing this job.  I noticed i have my phase markings reversed though from the one above.  ill need to double check that.

 

[bruce0]

Nice.  here's mine.  I did it so it matches all of the other modules i have done.  The switch holes are bored in the back so that the mounting nuts will go on underneath.  Added 2 small screw holes so i can use small black screw to mount the plate to the bracket,  instead of the switch nuts doing this job.  I noticed i have my phase markings reversed though from the one above.  ill need to double check that.

Regarding those bolts... Can I assume they travel all the way back to the tube board?  If so, please take a look at how close those are to high voltages.  Perhaps you would consider a pair of nuts, with the part that hits the tube board being nylon or something.  Otherwise you are putting a conductor in that lets a person get his finger with in few mm of a tube base.

Alternatively (and very carefully) you could ground the bolts, but on the stock faceplate they would be insulated by the PCB material and only grounded if they were connected to the back, and the back to the case.

Also be aware, if you intend to have the switches have nuts installed on them then silkscreen "Mic" and "150 Hz" might be partially obscured.  This happened to me on the default plates, but I think I was supposed to omit those nuts.

I eventually omitted the nuts.

Sorry if you guys have all this figured.  The design is really tight, and well thought out, and changes to it should be just as well thought out.

 

[Toure14]

Nice.  here's mine.  I did it so it matches all of the other modules i have done.  The switch holes are bored in the back so that the mounting nuts will go on underneath.  Added 2 small screw holes so i can use small black screw to mount the plate to the bracket,  instead of the switch nuts doing this job.  I noticed i have my phase markings reversed though from the one above.  ill need to double check that.

would you mind sharing your version of the faceplate or sending me the file... ;D

 

[Toure14]

In regards to these faceplates. Is there a way to get the center holes to line up all the way. I think the Hi-Z hole is off center from the rest of the holes (a bit farther to the left)  in the mid section? would adding some spacers be simple or no?

 

[100WChris]

Very nice gunpoint
i´m was not sure about the phase switch, i guess gunpoint version is right.
I guess you can raise the DI-Input or mount it on the plate and connect it with short wires, but better let Rodney confirm this...
Chris