D&R Series 2000 PSU

[Siegfried Meier]

Hey guys,

I just found one of these consoles for very little money.  However, it didn't come with a PSU.  I do have a 4000 series console, but I can't seem to find out if the PSU's can be shared between both consoles regarding voltages and pinouts.  They are from what looks to be pretty much the same generation of console, so I would almost assume that the 4000 PSU would work?  But, maybe someone here knows before I give it a try...

Thanks!
Sig

 

[analogguru]

The PSU's are identical for the 2000- and 4000-series.

Before connecting the PSU I would verify/readjust the +/- rails to 16V - sometimes they are adjusted to +/- 18V resulting in a lot of blown chips (without any real benefit).

 

[RuudNL]

http://d-r.nl/assets/2000-series-service-manual-canon-scan.pdf

 

[Siegfried Meier]

The PSU's are identical for the 2000- and 4000-series.

Before connecting the PSU I would verify/readjust the +/- rails to 16V - sometimes they are adjusted to +/- 18V resulting in a lot of blown chips (without any real benefit).

The PSU for the 4000 series actually does say +-18v on the front, and if I'm not mistaken the drawings also require this voltage.  Are you saying that the 2000 series only wants to see +-16v?

 

[Siegfried Meier]

It's hard to read, but this looks as if the PSU for the 2000 sends out +-19v??

 

[RuudNL]

Yes, I was also shocked! That would mean the OpAmps are working on 38 V...

 

[analogguru]

The PSU's are identical for the 2000- and 4000-series.

Before connecting the PSU I would verify/readjust the +/- rails to 16V - sometimes they are adjusted to +/- 18V resulting in a lot of blown chips (without any real benefit).

The PSU for the 4000 series actually does say +-18v on the front, and if I'm not mistaken the drawings also require this voltage.  Are you saying that the 2000 series only wants to see +-16v?

D & R is in general well known for blown chips because they run the chips at their limit (+/-18V).
If you run them on +/- 16 V you are on the save side and the loss in headroom is neglectable (approx. 1 dB only).

 

[Gene Pink]

D & R is in general well known for blown chips because they run the chips at their limit (+/-18V).
If you run them on +/- 16 V you are on the save side and the loss in headroom is neglectable (approx. 1 dB only).

While the supply may be +/- 18V, how much of that actually makes it to the board?

With my Midas, starting with 18v solid at the supplies feeding through 5 meters of umbilical with uncomfortably thin conductors, the board sees about 16.8V. Not sure of the wire gauge, but it does warm up to the touch with 11+ amps per rail at idle.

Was this ballast designed in, or were they  just cheaping out on proper wire size?

Some questions will invariably go unanswered.

Note that I did replace the wire in a bad umbilical with some hefty #13/8 of the same length, and the board was up to +/-17.4 with no ill effects for years of running.

Gene

 

[Siegfried Meier]

Thanks guys!

Question...I acquired an older Allen and Heath PSU and it's +-16v out.  I'm trying to rewire the 5 pin XLR connector now, and from I see on the D&R, it's the following:

pin 1  0v
pin2  +18v
pin 3  -18v
pin 4  +48v
pin 5  0v

The back of the Allen & Heath PSU states that one of the 0v is DC 0v, and the other is chassis 0v - how do I know on the D&R which 0v is which?  Neither of them actually go to the chassis - it has its own separate chassis ground cable.  Or does it even matter?  Make either pin 1 or pin 5 whichever 0v...?

 

[Siegfried Meier]

I just wired the Allen and Heath 0vDC to pin 1 and chassis ground to pin 5, and she works!