DIY TT/Bantam Cables

[john12ax7]

TT and long frame are made for reliable frequent plugging and unplugging, regular TRS is not. Technically long frame is superior to TT, but you get more space with TT so most go with that.

Making TT cables does not seem fun. Have also had issues with cheaper brands. Imo there are much better returns on diy equity than making TT cables, if you can get quality pre-made ones for $10 that is a good price and well worth it.

 

[Rob Flinn]

thank you for that. always good to learn new stuff. As you have done both kinds from Neutrik. Is there an advantage to the one you mention?

I think the ones that need the expensive tool are probably better. I bought some probably 15 or 20 years ago not realising I would need the tool. I tried closing them up various ways without the tool and they never closed properly. Therefore I have been using the type you were talking about since.

 

[Rob Flinn]

In my opinion Long frame or B gauge as they are also known are the best patchbays. It's mainly a question of how much real estate you have available.

I only switched to bantam because my console has a built in bantam patch bay. Before getting this current console I used to have a massive B gauge bay.

 

[kags]

To be clear the type that need the special tool are these https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/np3tt-1-b
& this is the tool you need https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/hx-tt-1 which in the U.K is available for £520 excluding VAT (ouch) from Canford audio. £520 is actually the cheapest U.K price, I have seen them for much more than that !!

I have terminated loads of the other type (https://www.canford.co.uk/Products/43-198_NEUTRIK-NP3TT-P-B-BANTAM-JACK-PLUG-Black) that you are talking about & they are no problem. I always specify them when I build cables for clients.

I have used the Neutrik NP3TT-P and Redco TTS without crimping. I just solder the shield to the inside of the connector so the cover slides on properly. Sometimes a client wants TT to xlr, trs, or whatever and I don't have a crimper with me, so I make them without crimping. I haven't had any of these fail over several years, so as long as they're not grossly mishandled, they'll work fine.

 

[Brian Roth]

When I was still doing "Studio House Calls" (as friend and Forum member @Ike Zimbel calls the biz <g>) I had to carry with me a variety of connection options to get in and out of studio equipment and my test gear. Many years ago, I bought some pre-made Mogami (IIRC) molded TT cables in 6' lengths. Cut them in half and attached XLRs.

Since most scopes and a lot of test gear use BNCs, I do own the tooling to crimp BNC onto coax. Solder desired audio connectors on the other end....except TT. My chopped TT cable solved that.
(Except for things like "balanced" audio gear that barfs into the unbalanced scope, lifting pin 1, yada yada,)

Sidebar...I built two Frankencables each with two BNCs on coax cables to one XLR female at the other ends to use the dual scope inputs as a diff amp. Fiddly to adjust. but gives me bandwidth to the scope's limit.

ANYWAY....the old "tinsel" conductors in older cloth sheathed TT cables always seemed impossible for me to solder. Before someone barks at me because I fought with tinsel wire, save your breath. I moved on long ago. Life is too short! lol

Bri

 

[thelivingroom]

I used to buy the JDS Promotions molded TT cables on eBay, but they were either out of stock for a while or stopped selling them, so I started making my own.

I use Canare L4E5C cable (red, green, orange, blue, yellow, and black) and Neutrik NP3TT-P-AU connectors. I also buy the Neutrik colored boots from Redco to match the corresponding cable colors.

At first I was tediously soldering the shield to the connector, but got the proper crimp tool and find it much easier. I bought this Eclipse crimper from Redco:
https://www.redco.com/Eclipse-300-054.html

And this die for it:
https://www.redco.com/Eclipse-902-201.html

They aren’t cheap, but they feel bulletproof. Once I get in a rhythm it goes quickly.