Electro Harmonix - Holy Grail Neo switch/traces mess

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friedd

Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2018
Messages
8
Location
France
Hi,
I recently got a butchered Holy Grail Neo reverb.
the pedal have 3 reverb algorithms (Spring/hall/plate) depending on the switch position.

Mine is stuck on one of them because the switch, and the traces around, got messed up.
I tried to simply put the switch in position and repair the dead traces but switching don't change the algo.
So i tried to understand what trace(s) was(were) missing and where, but i can't figure it out by myself, looks like it makes no sense to me ...

I can't find a picture of both sides of a working pcb, only this one side which is in the end not that much of a help.
I've taken some pictures of my broken one, here attached, and humbly ask for your help !
One is a side, the second the other side, and the third a compiled version of the too.
R2 and R30 are 10k missing resistors if that changes anything.

Any help on this ?

Fred
 

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That switch is likely hooked up to two digital inputs of the processor, and the missing resistor are likely the pull-ups to the 3.3v(?) supply.

Switch in the middle = both signals logic "high" = one algorithm
Switch to position 1 = one signal logic "high", the other logic "low" (pulled to ground via the switch) = 2nd algorithm
Switch to position 2 = same story as above = 3rd algorithm

The relatively easy part of that is the electronic repair - doable with some thin wire strands, kapton tape (ideally conformal-coating pen), thin-tip tweezers and lots of patience. The mechanical repair though, is much less likely.

You could consider some panel-mount on-off-on switch, that you'd attach with flying wires to the respective points on the board (after recreating the ripped traces, of course).
 
That switch is likely hooked up to two digital inputs of the processor, and the missing resistor are likely the pull-ups to the 3.3v(?) supply.

Switch in the middle = both signals logic "high" = one algorithm
Switch to position 1 = one signal logic "high", the other logic "low" (pulled to ground via the switch) = 2nd algorithm
Switch to position 2 = same story as above = 3rd algorithm

The relatively easy part of that is the electronic repair - doable with some thin wire strands, kapton tape (ideally conformal-coating pen), thin-tip tweezers and lots of patience. The mechanical repair though, is much less likely.

You could consider some panel-mount on-off-on switch, that you'd attach with flying wires to the respective points on the board (after recreating the ripped traces, of course).
Thanks a lot for that precise and fast answer !
so, to you, no trace is missing ? i mean except the obvious 3 ripped ones on the back ?
I already ordered a on/off/on switch that i'm waiting for.

once again thank you.
 
so, to you, no trace is missing ?

Well, the plating inside the holes for the switch pins may well be history as well. That's relatively bad news especially if that happens to be a 4-layer board (which i've only just realized)...
 
Well, the plating inside the holes for the switch pins may well be history as well. That's relatively bad news especially if that happens to be a 4-layer board (which i've only just realized)...
Damn, haven't thought about that ...
I think it is as the left middle hole (right middle hole in the 2nd picture) doesn't look like it's connected to anything but has continuity with ground, so ...

i guess i only have to try a meticulous repair crossing fingers ...
If that doesn't work, i'll be left with a 1/3 working reverb pedal, which is still more than nothing !
 

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