Etch-o-matic
- Thread starter Nadege
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hobiesound
Well-known member
seems like a cool system. i was actually looking for something like this. I've done some etching of guitar pedals but the results always looked kinda "28 days later". Really cool that it uses a template which you can re-use.
Svart
Well-known member
what is it you want it for?
If you want to etch PCBs then it's almost identical to PCB photoetching to begin with.
You can buy the UV sensitive dye in bottles and brush it onto your metal of choice. You print the same kind of transparency as you would when you make PCBs and then you do the same exposure/fixing process. Once that's done you choose your acid/base that you will need to properly etch your product.
If you want to etch PCBs then it's almost identical to PCB photoetching to begin with.
You can buy the UV sensitive dye in bottles and brush it onto your metal of choice. You print the same kind of transparency as you would when you make PCBs and then you do the same exposure/fixing process. Once that's done you choose your acid/base that you will need to properly etch your product.
hobiesound
Well-known member
i would want it for faceplates. For etching pcb's i use pre-sensitized bungard pcb's and a home made uv table. Works perfectly and i can etch perfect sub mm lanes for complex Uc pcb's. I actually ment guitar pedal "housings".
I have tried the UV sensitive spray but it was really hard getting a good clean coating without getting tiny specks of dust and crap.
greetings,
Thomas
I have tried the UV sensitive spray but it was really hard getting a good clean coating without getting tiny specks of dust and crap.
greetings,
Thomas
Svart
Well-known member
Some acids can discolor metal in weak solutions. Nitric acid will turn steel dark. You can use silkscreen type of printing to get an easily removed paint as your resist.
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Google for "etch o matic", or electroetch... Pay particular attention to the knives or blades makers forum, lot of usefull info there....
Basically the idea is to make a stencil (like for silkscreening) and then to electroetch the metal trough this stencil.
If precise enough the Etch-o-matic stencilmaker method may be interesting.
The electroetching works well on anodized alluminium but one needs DC current. The etch-o-matic won't do it because they made the economy of a rectifier!
Here is a diy electroetching machine:
http://www.knifenetwork.com/workshop/tut_etch_warner.shtml
Marking Methods is another suplier and they have an instruction PDF which gives much more information about the whole concept:
http://www.markingmethods.com/mark300_flyer.html
Axel
Basically the idea is to make a stencil (like for silkscreening) and then to electroetch the metal trough this stencil.
If precise enough the Etch-o-matic stencilmaker method may be interesting.
The electroetching works well on anodized alluminium but one needs DC current. The etch-o-matic won't do it because they made the economy of a rectifier!
Here is a diy electroetching machine:
http://www.knifenetwork.com/workshop/tut_etch_warner.shtml
Marking Methods is another suplier and they have an instruction PDF which gives much more information about the whole concept:
http://www.markingmethods.com/mark300_flyer.html
Axel
I was thinking of this as a really cool and easy solution for faceplate making.
Of course It won't work on anodized aluminium, but i don't care.
It seems to be a bit pricey, but it doesn't seems to be a very dificult process, it should be easily done with average easily found component .
any idea?
Of course It won't work on anodized aluminium, but i don't care.
It seems to be a bit pricey, but it doesn't seems to be a very dificult process, it should be easily done with average easily found component .
any idea?
The stencil is essentially your template... a quick visual example being, you cut out letters on a piece of paper and spraypaint or whatever through it.
It looks like they're using a photographic process with the stencil... printing, exposing to UV light and then removing the exposed portion with a developer..... looks pretty easy, there's a video of the guy doing it on the etch o matic site
http://www.etch-o-matic.biz/440.htm
cheers,
dave
It looks like they're using a photographic process with the stencil... printing, exposing to UV light and then removing the exposed portion with a developer..... looks pretty easy, there's a video of the guy doing it on the etch o matic site
http://www.etch-o-matic.biz/440.htm
cheers,
dave
therecordingart
Well-known member
Nadege said:
Why won't it work on anodized aluminum?
VERY interessing links for building your own electro etching machine for few $$
http://www.chriscrawfordknives.com/CCK/Etcher_Tutorial/Default.asp
http://www.chriscrawfordknives.com/CCK/Etcher_Tutorial/Default.asp
Svart
Well-known member
Anodized aluminum has a coating of oxide that most acids cannot eat through.
Anodizing is actually the process of "rusting"(oxidizing) aluminum in a controlled manner and depositing a color within the oxide layer.
When aluminum oxidizes, it's actually a clear layer so someone found out that you can put color in it when you cause it to happen.
The natural oxide layer isn't very thick but the one that we create is very thick.
Oxides are very stable and hard to break apart chemically. Acids usually can't do that unless they are extremely strong, in which case they would likely destroy the whole piece of metal at the same time.
Anodizing is actually the process of "rusting"(oxidizing) aluminum in a controlled manner and depositing a color within the oxide layer.
When aluminum oxidizes, it's actually a clear layer so someone found out that you can put color in it when you cause it to happen.
The natural oxide layer isn't very thick but the one that we create is very thick.
Oxides are very stable and hard to break apart chemically. Acids usually can't do that unless they are extremely strong, in which case they would likely destroy the whole piece of metal at the same time.
therecordingart
Well-known member
Svart said:
Awesome info. Thank you.
mikep
Well-known member
not really. that was the correct answer to: "why can't you chemically etch anodized aluminum?"
Electro-etching relies on a chemical and an electric current. The anodized aluminum surface is non-conductive, so no current = no etch.
By the way, You can laser etch anodized aluminum very quickly with excellent results.
Electro-etching relies on a chemical and an electric current. The anodized aluminum surface is non-conductive, so no current = no etch.
By the way, You can laser etch anodized aluminum very quickly with excellent results.
I've found an etch o matic dealer in europe:
it's Mastergrave in UK www.mastergrave.co.uk
I've found that electro etching on aluminium can only be grey, not black on other metal it will be black. This is due to (said the sales guy) the electrolyte used for black etching on aluminium which is now banned as it seems to be too dangerous and source of illness.
Stainless steel front panel might look good.
it's Mastergrave in UK www.mastergrave.co.uk
I've found that electro etching on aluminium can only be grey, not black on other metal it will be black. This is due to (said the sales guy) the electrolyte used for black etching on aluminium which is now banned as it seems to be too dangerous and source of illness.
Stainless steel front panel might look good.
