Faceplate hole for VU meter??

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Matt C

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 30, 2012
Messages
240
Location
Saint Paul, MN, USA
How do folks usually go about making a large hole in a 19" chassis faceplate for a big VU meter? Is it possible to get a punch that big? Am I better off just ordering a custom-machined faceplate? any advice is much appreciated.
 
In aluminium, I use a simple handheld wood-router running in an attached 4mm acrylic jig with an appropriate cutout
+1

I do this similarly for all my larger cutouts, aluminum is just shiny wood. 😅 It's not for the faint-hearted, wear protective gear.

I make round cut-outs with a special (circle) jig for the edge router and templates for square cut-outs with thin LEGO bricks, no joke.😎

Edit: That's how I started (on my washing machine), I've optimized the process a bit since then.

' https://groupdiy.com/threads/diy-pr...mps-buffers-or-microphones.84324/post-1098005
 
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Remember that the VU meter you are fitting must be designed for the panel material as STEEL panels mess up the balistics of moving coil meter movements. Aluminium is not a problem.
 
In aluminium, I use a simple handheld wood-router running in an attached 4mm acrylic jig with an appropriate cutout
I’m surprised I haven’t tried that, as what @rock soderstrom said, it’s just shiny wood. I’ve used my table saw with 80-tooth finish blade to make straight cuts on sheet aluminum, and miter saw for angle, round, and square tube many times with great results.
 
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I use a hole saw. There are reasonably priced hydraulic punches that will do it.
In aluminium, I use a simple handheld wood-router running in an attached 4mm acrylic jig with an appropriate cutout
Every time I’ve tried a hand held router on Aluminum it scared the crap out of me. I don’t scare easily. Maybe the Bosch Bullet I have isn’t powerful enough.

I use a hole saw in a hand drill. It can’t be any hand held drill though. The two I have that have enough torque are a Hitachi D90? I don’t have it in front of me but it’s a low rpm high torque version of the corded drill. My daily driver is a Fine drill. It’s an old model. It has the most torque of any hand drill I’ve tried. You have to clamp and hold on tight. But be ready to let go in case it binds.
 
It actually does not feel that scary once you realize that the business end of that tool is always pointing away from you, and that the most common error mode, broken bits, is quite harmless.

/Jakob E.
 
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