Feeler: an "Eee-Zzz" christmas present...ez1073 and ez1073-500

[Chrishoward936]

Can anyone send me a DigiKey link to the film capacitor I could use to replace C60? My kit was short one and I can’t find a 1n5J100 part anywhere. I’m assuming I could use any 1500pf 100 DCV 10% film capacitor?

Like below?

https://www.digikey.com/en/products...?s=N4IgTCBcDaIMwE4EFoCMC6oGxuQOQBFA4AhAF0BfIA

 

[Potato Cakes]

Correct. Some of the film caps are listed at 1500pF when ordering them but the manufacturer will print 1n5J on the actual part.

 

[Chrishoward936]

I appreciate the quick response!

 

[Chrishoward936]

Hey All!

I have another question. I want to find some different knobs than the traditional ones but I’m not sure how to find the right knobs. I bought a set but the screw was complete opposite of the indicator dot and the screw didn’t line up with the notch on the shafts of the pots which makes the indicator dot point to the wrong option.

I noticed that the Capi website said their knobs have two set screws located 120 degrees apart but that doesn’t seem to be an option on DigiKey or maybe there is a different term for that?

Any help would be appreciated! I’m just looking for some black knobs that are no more than 12.7mm or maybe up to 15mm in diameter. I made my own faceplate from a template I found and that seems to be a good size for what I want.

 

[Chrishoward936]

Something like the below maybe?

https://lovemyswitches.com/solid-aluminum-knob-the-falcon-black-12-5mm-od/

 

[Chrishoward936]

Something like the below maybe?

https://lovemyswitches.com/solid-aluminum-knob-the-falcon-black-12-5mm-od/

incase anyone else is interested these knobs worked great!

 

[YashaTheEngineer]

PLEASE HELP! My multimeter is reading the wrong voltage.

I have my multimeter pointed at the 200V Setting with the ends in the correct holes.

These are the numbers i'm getting when I measure voltage...

J6 + J5 = 000.8
J3 + J5 = -000.8

Everything looks good, no smoke or anything sus happening to the board.

Your help is much appreciated.

(Yes, I did used the search tool, couldn't find anything)

 

[YashaTheEngineer]

I followed the power signal diagram from earlier...

The 24V & 48V Regulate start to heat up

My calibration for my post earlier still read the same.

Checked all my solder joints to make sure theyre all good.

S.O.S

(Novice Builder)

 

[Potato Cakes]

You need to do more searching, unfortunately. You either have a bad solder joint or a misplaced component. If those regulators are heating up then something is drawing lots of current from them, maybe a short to ground, which would account for the low voltage reading.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[YashaTheEngineer]

You need to do more searching, unfortunately. You either have a bad solder joint or a misplaced component. If those regulators are heating up then something is drawing lots of current from them, maybe a short to ground, which would account for the low voltage reading.

Thanks!

Paul

I had 2 diodes placed incorrectly...after fixing this, the temperature dropped (good sign, I think)

Heres what my meter reads now...
J6 + J5 = 14.8V
J3 + J5 = 25.5V

[didn't bother to measure output bias yet]
{SIDE NOTE: I followed the Ian Bell formula for grounding}

I started reading this thread from page 1...trying to find a post that has had this issue.

Thanks again!
----------------------------------------------------------

EDIT:
PROBLEM SOLVED!!!

 

[JMan]

Hey All!

I'm building the 500 ez1073, and everything has been going swimmingly. However, I ran into a snag with the pin headers. They seem super flimsy, and just the amount of heat needed to adequately melt the solder easily loosened the pins from their plastic sleeve, resulting in a lot of shifting and uneven pins. I managed to get nearly all of them to sit correctly, but had to do so by manually seating many of them with a pair of tweezers while keeping the solder melted with my iron. Very annoying task, but it worked. However, in the process, I had one pin bend slightly. Upon bending it back into place, it just snapped off at the right angle. I should emphasize, my iron is just barely hot enough to melt the solder, and I'm being quite delicate with these things, so I think ultimately the pins are just kind of fragile.

Can anyone recommend a more sturdy replacement for these? I will keep the ones that I managed to properly adjust, but I have to at least replace the one that broke off.

 

[YashaTheEngineer]

After hours of scanning through this thread. I have yet to find a solution. /

My power is good.

My only problem is I have no signal at all...just a faint hiss when its cranked.

Any suggestions?

 

[sonicsix]

hey all
i’ve been lurking for a while but i just wanna double check something: i think i have a bad power transformer so i removed it and did a continuity test on the primaries. my meter beeps but also reads 62ohms & i get the same if i measure resistance. am i correct in concluding that this VTT2326 is toast?

 

[YashaTheEngineer]

hey all
i’ve been lurking for a while but i just wanna double check something: i think i have a bad power transformer so i removed it and did a continuity test on the primaries. my meter beeps but also reads 62ohms & i get the same if i measure resistance. am i correct in concluding that this VTT2326 is toast?

Does it turn on?

 

[sonicsix]

Does it turn on?

no

 

[YashaTheEngineer]

no

send pic of what you have so far

 

[EarthTone]

What wire is everyone using for hooking up their chassis XRL connectors to their mainboard Molex pins for hot/cold/shield signal inputs? Can you buy a thin flexible commercial shielded cable with wire of a thin enough gauge to be able to be crimped to the molex connector pins easily? Last time I made one of these ez1073’s I ended up hardwiring the chassis XLR’s to the test XLR inputs on the board because my mic cable was all too thick to use with the molex pins and couldn’t be crimped. Doing it the way I did it was a waste of Neutriks (I used bare Nuetriks to connect a short piece of mic cable between the test XLR inputs and the chassis XLR connectors) and is overall ugly so I want to use the proper Molex connectors & crimp pins this time. Can you use just any old 22 or 24 AWG wires for this step? Or is there a good Mogami product you can buy that’s shielded? This isn’t covered in the manual and I only saw harem scarem about it in the thread so thought it would be good to ask.

Thanks mates!!!
EarthTone

 

[EarthTone]

A Mogami rep responded to an email I sent and recommended W2944 for this usage (re: my question asked in the post just above this one). For anyone who is interested… I will use some on my latest 3 ez1073’s for chassis hookup, gonna start building next week. Love these units.

 

[EarthTone]

Missing parts!!!! Need help finding substitutes.

I just received an order from AML and I haven't made it all the way through the builds yet so there may be more parts missing I don't know about yet but I noticed in my consolidated ez1073 rack kit versions, half of the packet of resistor 5.6 ohm for R11 or R105 on the PCB are missing. I received 3 and there should be 6 (I am building 3 units at once). Rather than ask them to ship more from overseas, I found these on Amazon but I need to confirm: Will these work as substitute parts? 1/2 (0.5) watt 5.6 ohm 1% metal film resistors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QDXV3XD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I do not know for sure if the resistors are 1/2 watt or what size exactly....

Please advise!

Thanks,
Matt

 

[EarthTone]

I just finished 4 of these and they all work great/sound great (thanks Colin!) but one of them keeps blowing its fuse when I calibrate the output at R26 to 130mv. Like, I can measure long enough calibrate it, but it’s the act of measuring that resistor for a few seconds that causes a short or high current draw after releasing the probes which blows the fuse. I got it calibrated correctly and when I just use the unit it doesn’t seem to blow the fuse at all so far. Just wondering why measuring R26 on this particular one (my 6th time building one of these) would cause this? Something I’m doing wrong? I just measured across R26’s legs while the unit was on. No sparks or smoke, just keeps blowing fuses I’ve been through 3 or 4 of different brands now. When I replace the fuse after calibration the unit works and sounds fine. Thanks for any input.