Found this Alice-inspired project

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.......... Only issue is I hate having so many spares that just end up collecting dust.
I use a simplified version of Jules' original 1642 'Alice OPA' project schematic for my various OPIC project variations: OPIC Impedance Converter

A really simple option - using stripboard for those experimenters wanting to try out an easily modifiable circuit --- or PCB versions for those who prefer that style of construction....
And (almost!) no SMD soldering (just the op-amp to an adaptor PCB).

I find stripboard useful where you want to either just try something different out in a 'real world' situation (as opposed to 'simulations') - or only intend to build one or two of a particular mic project - perhaps just for your own use?

Saves on having to buy several PCBs, which often - as you say - just end up collecting dust!
 
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Title.
https://github.com/Spirit532/studio_mic
Curious if anybody had any thoughts on this. Seems like a relatively hassle free single-board solution for anyone brave enough to get the PCBs fabbed and assembled.
Since the capsule connection and hiZ resistors, opAmp input are all soldered directly to the pcb the mic would potentially have humidity/noise/leakage issues depending on where you live and how you use the mic. There are some brands that do this, but they do different stuff to prevent these issues from happening.

I don't like how close the hex inverter is to the hiZ area either. It's oscillating at very high frequency and could potentially interfere with the audible range. I don't know how much time the PCB designer used to address the layout, or if they were aware of this. But this is just a guess on my part, @Khron would know more about this.

EDIT:
The R13 is too low imho. Røde uses up to 5Gig resistors here for low noise.
 
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Shame. PCBWay quoted me $18 a board to get everything assembled. Would have been nice to have a plug'n'play solution, but you cant have your cake and eat it too. Thanks for the input everybody!
 

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Yes, from PCBWay. The link is on @rogs website shown in his signature. I just ordered a few. They are nice, but don't burn up the OPA chips. I have toasted a few already.
I've built a few of Jules' circuits from PCBway boards and found using solder paste instead of wire solder works really well for the SM op amps. I still use an iron, but you only have to touch it for a split second to liquefy the solder. I tried a heatgun once and blew the SMC across my bench. I don't get that process...
I also bought a digital microscope for inspecting my work. Found at least one solder bridge that way.
 
I have no good results with soldering paste. Only if i am add more my favorite bga flux to it then it is working good. In other case still many balls with my paste. Maybe some paste with better quality. But for me bga flux still best to have really clear soldering with no balls and really easy for cleaning after soldering. It is go to brown color only after 340c so i can use 300c with out any burning of flux.
 
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...I tried a heatgun once and blew the SMC across my bench. I don't get that process...
SMD is easy. Put solder paste on the pads (helps if you use a stencil but not absolutely necessary), place the components on there and heat the bottom of the board with a heat gun until you see the solder melt (you can heat that PCB a lot more than you would think), clean the board and you're done. You will need one of these to hold the pcb while you heat it: PanaVise Products, Inc.
 
I've yet to find the need to bother with paste. Just dab a bit of solder on one of the pads where each component goes, a pair of sharp-enough tweezers to hold the component, re-melt that solder to tack the components in place, solder the other end / other pins, and optionally re-melt the tack-pad with adding a bit more flux / a bit of fresh solder, and job done.

Of course, a nice sharp tip helps - i'm very partial to the "PLCC blade" type tip (big fat face for massive joints, as well as a pointy tip for delicate work).

https://www.waveroomplus.com/assets/images/0102bdlf20.jpg
 
The only SMT device I've had to solder (so far!) is the OPA164* op-amps, which I use for my OPIC mics..... I find a tiny blob of 'Blu tack' ( I believe it's called 'poster putty' in the US ?) on the underside in the centre of the device holds it in place so that the pins can be easily lined up.
Then manually soldered with thin solder and a sharp tip.... Seems to work fine.....
 

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I find a tiny blob of 'Blu tack' ( I believe it's called 'poster putty' in the US ?) on the underside in the centre of the device holds it in place so that the pins can be easily lined up.
That's a great idea. I just happen to have some of this stuff on my desk, gathering dust. I will try that out on the next one I solder.
 
... Or just tack-solder one corner pin, then maneuver the chip until it lines up with the pads, tack-solder the opposite corner, then do the rest of the pins? Using tweezers for handling is useful (if not a must).

Almost sounds like you guys are trying to find more complicated methods than necessary..? :) I'd at the very least like to think i'm not privy to any sort of "arcane secrets"...
 
... Or just tack-solder one corner pin, then maneuver the chip until it lines up with the pads, tack-solder the opposite corner, then do the rest of the pins? Using tweezers for handling is useful (if not a must).
I foud that 'lining up' without the need for any heat at all a bit easier.... Even a single pin 'tack solder' really needs 3 hands, if the device itself can still move about...
 

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