Got sick of paying for rack mount chassis'

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buildafriend

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Jun 30, 2009
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now I need to figure out a good plan. I figure I can fab a chassis in a few hours at the cost of sheet metal but what makes the most sense as a design? What is the best way to cut the sheet metal for cheap that leaves a clean edge? What metals are the best to use?

for those who don't know what youre looking at its a spot welder and a sheet metal break.

I could fab up chassis for really cheap for ya'll if this works out.

 
I got offered plastic 19" cases recently that were much cheaper than metal.
The plastic is machineable and can be silkscreened easily. (I'm wondering if it can have digital print.

My only concern is EMI.... but a roll of foil isn't expensive ;)

/R
 
initially I bought it inspired by Dave P's metal work while realizing I had no way of making nice looking sectioned off shielding. Where that is a problem I could stick some EMI tape over it.. that may not fix it all but I would imagine it does something good. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/60mm-x-30m-RF-EMI-EMR-Shielding-Copper-Foil-Tape-Ahesive-Conductive-/350629965385?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D350629965364%26ps%3D54

I'll post pictures as I move along here

cost so far is 175 USD for the spot welder and 60 USD for the break

so about 240 with tax

I guess I'll try steel
 
buildafriend said:
now I need to figure out a good plan. I figure I can fab a chassis in a few hours at the cost of sheet metal but what makes the most sense as a design? What is the best way to cut the sheet metal for cheap that leaves a clean edge?
I don't think there are many answers; a guillotine does exactly it. You may want to use a scrollsaw or even a jigsaw but you would have to do a lot of filing and deburring.
What metals are the best to use?
You don't have much choice. Aluminium has the major advantage of being easy to work, particularly if you want to do rectangualr cutouts, but OTOH, you can't really rely on taps in aluminium. You have to use threaded inserts. Steel is used in the majority of cases, but must be passivated/protected. Most industrial manufacturers use pre-plated steel. Copper is an expensive option, does not need passivation, can be threaded.
 
I like the idea of copper for EMR purposes. I think I'll make my first one with cheap materials because im sure there will be some lessons learned.
 
front, back, top & bottom seems easy to make with the proper tools;
but the rack sides? they are pretty damn complicated m8, since they keep the whole unit "togheter" with a bunch of screws;
Anyway, this isn't impossible after all  :)
I'll follow your progress!
 
okay so,

so far working with sheet metal sucks. engles is spot on when he says "with the right tools." I'm not unhappy with where I am (even though it looks a bit sloppy) because I've used maybe 8USD worth of materials and I have a rack mount enclosure. The best solution for me might be to have the metal cut to size and then I can bend it and spot weld it together. The place I went to wanted $150usd (on top of the $60 for the sheet) to cut the 10 x 4ft sheet down. I bet I can source a place that will cut it for cheaper and I bet I can work with slightly lighter sheet metal. 20 gauge seems to be a bit too thick. I'm really curious how much copper sheet metal would cost. wouldnt it be great if I could make 2u enclosures available to you guys for about 35-40usd each? I could leave off the front panel and make it for even cheaper while just leaving a few bolt holes.

thoughts and ideas are appreciated.

so, here are some pictures of my initial hack job.



I have a much better idea of how to go about the next one. I'll pre fab long brackets for the inside corners. if I get things cut professionally I think the end result will be much nicer. I would like to clear coat them after they are completed so they do not rust. raw material seems to rust extremely fast.
 
nice diy.

have you considered seeking out a 'public shop' ? community center, junior college/trade school?
i did my 'financial aid' campus employment in art school running the tool crib of a fantastic shop...i was one of the few people that new what the tools were used for...lots of unused metalworking kit.
 
shabtek said:
nice diy.

have you considered seeking out a 'public shop' ? community center, junior college/trade school?
i did my 'financial aid' campus employment in art school running the tool crib of a fantastic shop...i was one of the few people that new what the tools were used for...lots of unused metalworking kit.

you know, I should at least walk in to the community college I went to and see what the deal is with that. They definitely have a metal shop because I remember hearing some classmates talk about it in a technical writing course. great advice! and thanks for the compliment.

Next up i'll be looking at coil winders. I wonder if the mounting system on this would work for a transformer bobbin.
http://www.stewmac.com/shopby/item/2104?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=2013-09-gp&gclid=CPWIxe6LzrkCFc-Y4AoddSMAtQ
 
Rochey said:
I got offered plastic 19" cases recently that were much cheaper than metal.
The plastic is machineable and can be silkscreened easily. (I'm wondering if it can have digital print.

My only concern is EMI.... but a roll of foil isn't expensive ;)

/R

There is even a conductive spray paint I have seen used.  (Mostly on the solid body guitar cavities, but also on plastic project boxes).
 
buildafriend said:
Sheet metal 20g

60 USD

10' x 4'

Face it, sheet metal work is a pain in the neck.  But that sheet looks pretty good for a nice plate reverb!
 
bruce0 said:
buildafriend said:
Sheet metal 20g

60 USD

10' x 4'

Face it, sheet metal work is a pain in the neck.  But that sheet looks pretty good for a nice plate reverb!

Hey hey hey!! now how do those work!? don't give me too many ideas, my wallet is in hell and my brain can't seem to stop wondering how everything works.
 
There are some threads on them.  Basically you stretch a big plate (in a quiet place), attach and actuator (basically a speaker without the cone, coil/driver connected to the plate.  Then you contact mic the plate. - (corrected from brian's great link... and wow a great article  - ).  Plate size, thickness and how it rings matters.
 
I know this is an old post and I'm not sure if you are still doing this, but I've found the very best way for cutting sheet metal is to use a stomp shear, something like this: http://www.grizzly.com/products/52-Sheet-Metal-Shear/G5772

I have one (found an old Niagra on Craigslist for 200 bucks a couple years ago), and it is a pleasure to cut sheet metal with it.  Just a thought.
 
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