GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[aaruel]

Alright, I had time to flip the wiring and it has the same behavior.

LEDs turn on in the push buttons when switched

Audio gets passed through, both channels work great and have ZERO noise

Turning on the compression (deactivating the bypass) still does nothing, also it might be good to mention the makeup gain does nothing. Probing the voltage of the makeup pot, it goes from 0V-12V just fine, so I'm not sure what's going on.  Anyways, something that might be going on, I'm assuming there should be a voltage coming to "ON" and "OFF" and coming from "COM" so it can be managed by the switch. Well, there isn't a voltage coming from "COM" or going to "ON" or "OFF" . Looking at the schematic, COM goes to the ATTACK rotary, for some reason. Does this mean the switch isn't working?

Return the unit to stock configuration, and see if it works. Its really hard to trouble shoot with mods added like this, since we can't be sure if its "just" the set-up of the switching.

Gustav

Just did, everything on it is working now!

Now I guess I should find out how this bypass switch should be wired. Something tells me it has to do with the two unmarked pins on the diagram circled below. It seems to be controlling the makeup gain (which would make sense). Any idea where I should wire those up to?

http://imgur.com/KK8iui3.jpg

Great news - problem isolated to the alternative switching.

The switching has been covered numerous times in this thread - sorry, I dont have direct experience setting it up.

Gustav

Alright I figured out a solution, with a compromise however. The desired operation of the switch is the light, compression, and makeup gain off when normal, and on when switched, however it's a DPDT switch so only two of those things can happen. Since I would rather vie for correct non-aestetic operation, I opted for the makeup gain and compression to be controlled with the switch, resulting in a diagram like this

--> http://imgur.com/scjMxAP.jpg <--

Note the NC and NO are flipped because I want the compression enabled when switched. The compromise being the light will stay on all the time, but I'd take that for a properly working unit. If you want the light to switch on and off, just wire it normally and bridge two wires (if you look on the schematic you'll see they are the two pads connected to the makeup gain pot output). Another problem I had when wiring up was the compression didn't work at first, which confused me. I then tried to do a continuity test on the switch and found out NO wasn't working on one of the poles. Since the makeup gain didn't need a NO state, I just flipped the wiring and everything worked fine. Hope this helped some people looking for answers.

 

[cray]

Hello guys.
recently installed dry/wet board on my ssl.

working fine except by mistake i  mis-poling  the 10 pin conector.
now i have no light on led.
measuring after th 1k resistor . i get about  0.9v

79l12 , 78l12 are ok.. as they are giving the correct voltages.
led replaced , 7815 & 7915  are hotter than usual. but giving the correct voltages.


its a rev 7.

any suggestion ?

thanks in advance.

 

[Gustav]

working fine except by mistake i  mis-poling  the 10 pin conector.

Not sure what that means, and not sure if you fixed the problem, but...

- a very random  guess - The added circuitry put you beyond the capability of the power trafo youre using!?

Gustav

 

[cray]

working fine except by mistake i  mis-poling  the 10 pin conector.

Not sure what that means, and not sure if you fixed the problem, but...

- a very random  guess - The added circuitry put you beyond the capability of the power trafo youre using!?

Gustav

I mean connected in the wrong way the 10 pin connector ( the one that goes to the control board)
not reversed. just one step to the right .

the trafo is:

15 A.c. 15VA,

is a basic ssl.  just with the crush and bend by lukas. no extra side chain board ,

before the 1 k resistor of the "LED" there is about + 12v.  after 0.9.
there must be 1.5v? !

Just in case replaced the  two  small 12v vr but nothing.

voltages on board are ok. +15-15 +12 -12v.

 

[innercityman]

Hi everyone,

I'm sorry but I haven't been able to find and answer to my issue with the search engine of the site. I've just finished my GSSL from Gustav and I'm getting troubleshooting. When bypassed, the sound is clear and balanced. When bypass out, the sound is distorted and the needle of the vu meter goes fast to the right, when bypass out and side chain in, the sound is clean and the meter needle goes back to the left but, no compression, only the makeup gain is responding. The threshold, ratio, attack and release have no effect, and the needle of the vu meter doesn't move at all. Any suggestions?

Thanks for your help.

 

[Gustav]

working fine except by mistake i  mis-poling  the 10 pin conector.

Not sure what that means, and not sure if you fixed the problem, but...

- a very random  guess - The added circuitry put you beyond the capability of the power trafo youre using!?

Gustav

I mean connected in the wrong way the 10 pin connector ( the one that goes to the control board)
not reversed. just one step to the right .

the trafo is:

15 A.c. 15VA,

is a basic ssl.  just with the crush and bend by lukas. no extra side chain board ,

before the 1 k resistor of the "LED" there is about + 12v.  after 0.9.
there must be 1.5v? !

Just in case replaced the  two  small 12v vr but nothing.

voltages on board are ok. +15-15 +12 -12v.

No hits for "lukas crush n blend" in smart search.

No location in your profile, wanted to know if you were in 115V land, to know if made sense to ask if you had a full 15VA rating on the trafo, when using the primaries in parallel - but possibly only using one.

False assumed you had tried a different LED - did you?

Gustav

 

[Gustav]

When bypassed, the sound is clear and balanced.
When bypass out, the sound is distorted and the needle of the vu meter goes fast to the right,

when bypass out and side chain in, the sound is clean and the meter needle goes back to the left but, no compression, only the makeup gain is responding. The threshold, ratio, attack and release have no effect, and the needle of the vu meter doesn't move at all. Any suggestions?

Thanks for your help.

Just to make sure I am understanding correctly

When the compression is out, you are not getting distortion
When the compression is in, you are getting distortion, the meter goes to the right, and the controls do nothing.
When the compression and the side chain high pass is in, the meter does not move, and the controls do nothing.

Do you have pictures of your build?

Gustav

 

[cray]

working fine except by mistake i  mis-poling  the 10 pin conector.

Not sure what that means, and not sure if you fixed the problem, but...

- a very random  guess - The added circuitry put you beyond the capability of the power trafo youre using!?

Gustav

I mean connected in the wrong way the 10 pin connector ( the one that goes to the control board)
not reversed. just one step to the right .

the trafo is:

15 A.c. 15VA,

is a basic ssl.  just with the crush and bend by lukas. no extra side chain board ,

before the 1 k resistor of the "LED" there is about + 12v.  after 0.9.
there must be 1.5v? !

Just in case replaced the  two  small 12v vr but nothing.

voltages on board are ok. +15-15 +12 -12v.

No hits for "lukas crush n blend" in smart search.

No location in your profile, wanted to know if you were in 115V land, to know if made sense to ask if you had a full 15VA rating on the trafo, when using the primaries in parallel - but possibly only using one.

False assumed you had tried a different LED - did you?

Gustav

you won't believe me but i have tried before with a new led.. and no light..
but now you tell me that..i  tried again..yes i find there is light!!


ok..about the hot xx15.

im using a single trafo 220v.  .
70-100mA  is the comsuption of the board.  so its not a lot for the Gssl , right?

im not using heatsinks.  but now the 7915 and 7815 are hotter than usual.
Don't know what is a correct temperature..may be i don't have to be worried.?

this is the board  but rev 6

http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=31246.0

never used heatsinks on my unit because they didn't need them , thanks gustav

 

[innercityman]

Just to make sure I am understanding correctly

When the compression is out, you are not getting distortion
When the compression is in, you are getting distortion, the meter goes to the right, and the controls do nothing.
When the compression and the side chain high pass is in, the meter does not move, and the controls do nothing.

That's it. Here's some pictures

 

[innercityman]

another picture

 

[innercityman]

another one

 

[innercityman]

another

 

[innercityman]

and a last one

 

[Gustav]

Solder work looks "neat", so I wouldnt suspect any shorts (normally, I would ask to see the bottom of the main board too, but lets skip that for now).

Almost too neat, so just curious - are you cutting the terminal really tight before soldering? A lot of them look like there is no terminal on the solder joint - check that/opens/no actual joint (make sure to tin wire ends before soldering).

Check orientation of 10 pin connector.

Is your LED lighting up?

And just for the hell of it, make sure you did not swap the 12V regulators, one is 7912, the other is 7812. The one number makes a huge difference here.  (would you know how to measure to check if you have the 12V correctly?)

Thats a start.


Gustav

 

[innercityman]

Thanks for your help Gustav. Yes the led lights up. I will check that tomorrow after work, and post some pictures of the solder side of the main board pcbs.

 

[Gustav]

you won't believe me but i have tried before with a new led.. and no light..
but now you tell me that..i  tried again..yes i find there is light!!

Great, no more problems.

It was possibly a stupid suggestion to even check for the current - I was just reacting to the regulators getting hotter/now knowing what you put in there. Not sure if the extra 100mA draw should make a real difference to the regulators here, someone else will probably know.

If you were only using "half" of the VA rating on your trafo due to using just one side of a primary 115 (you still didnt enter your location, by the way), I would tell you to add the other side in parallel and try again, but if your troubles are gone, just be happy

Gustav
Gustav

 

[Gustav]

Thanks for your help Gustav. Yes the led lights up. I will check that tomorrow after work, and post some pictures of the solder side of the main board pcbs.

That sort of rules out the regulators/wrong 10 pin orientation.

Make sure you have 12V+/- before doing anything else..

Gustav

 

[innercityman]

ok, where do I measure the 12v+/- voltages ?

 

[innercityman]

I've  just checked the regulators and all of them are in the right place. I also checked the 10 pins orientation and it's good also. Yesterday I measured voltages on the ic sockets before putting them on and power up the unit, and I had 12v and 15v, I don't remember on witch pin.

 

[Gustav]

I've  just checked the regulators and all of them are in the right place. I also checked the 10 pins orientation and it's good also. Yesterday I measured voltages on the ic sockets before putting them on and power up the unit, and I had 12v and 15v, I don't remember on witch pin.

So voltages are good.

I just went over your pictures, and I can't see anything misplaced or oriented the wrong way on the main board -  make sure to double check that yourself.

I can't really figure out why the meter would be pegged with he comp in, but not with the comp in/SC HP filter in combo. Theres already a 22uF cap that would block any DC making its way through the side chain  from before that point, so I really can't figure out what difference the filter cap makes - unless its just not connected properly and breaks the signal.

Lets see some pictures of the control board.

And also, I may have forgotten the obvious here. Make sure you programmed the switches correctly. Your symptoms could arise with a switch being caught on the "wrong" side of the programming pin.

Gustav