midwayfair
Well-known member
A second ribbon is on my list for next year. Last year's was an Austin build with a Cinemag and a 0.8um ribbon that I'm quite pleased with -- output is good (a little higher than a Sennheiser e609), hiss is workable, and the treble is actually better on it than some other ribbons I've liked and used in the past.
Since I don't like redundancy, I'd like to make the next one a little different.
I figured I'd start with learning how the body affects the sound. The Austin is a simple wire mesh -- I removed one layer I think (I tend to do this with most mics because I always use a pop screen if a lot of air is being moved anyway). The MXL 990 and 144 are obvious candidates for this. (The 990 in particular because they're dirt cheap.)
There is also the style of body like the Royer -- Arthur Fisher's RM-5 comes in that, or I could pick up a donor body from a company called Badaax, which is on Amazon and a really good price for including a shockmount and box (their MC410 looks like it might work instead of an MXL990 body, too).
Finally, there's the lollypop shape, like the Fathead and its clones -- ISK, Nady, GAP, etc. I really have no idea why these tend to sound darker than other body shapes, or maybe it's something to do with what's put inside them.
There's the really obvious consideration of the physical space for the motor. The 990 and 144 bodies only have about 60mm of grill (IIRC), of which less than 50mm is usable in the 144. A longer ribbon sounds different. So if I wanted a longer ribbon than what's in the Austin (which is 50mm I think), I would need to use the Royer-shaped mic body.
What I'm trying to figure out is how big of a useful effect those slats have on the sound, and what can be done about them. Just some brainstorming:
1) They ought to cut down on treble, but is the amount of treble lost comparable to a finer mesh?
2) If I simply cut off the slats on the Royer-shaped one, is there anything about the body shape that would change the sound appreciably? I wouldn't think so.
3) Would there be a compelling reason to affect the top end with the body shape instead of simply using a thicker ribbon or different transformer?
I'm not sure that I can construct my own mic body. I have extremely limited metalworking tools at my disposal.
Thanks for the help.
Since I don't like redundancy, I'd like to make the next one a little different.
I figured I'd start with learning how the body affects the sound. The Austin is a simple wire mesh -- I removed one layer I think (I tend to do this with most mics because I always use a pop screen if a lot of air is being moved anyway). The MXL 990 and 144 are obvious candidates for this. (The 990 in particular because they're dirt cheap.)
There is also the style of body like the Royer -- Arthur Fisher's RM-5 comes in that, or I could pick up a donor body from a company called Badaax, which is on Amazon and a really good price for including a shockmount and box (their MC410 looks like it might work instead of an MXL990 body, too).
Finally, there's the lollypop shape, like the Fathead and its clones -- ISK, Nady, GAP, etc. I really have no idea why these tend to sound darker than other body shapes, or maybe it's something to do with what's put inside them.
There's the really obvious consideration of the physical space for the motor. The 990 and 144 bodies only have about 60mm of grill (IIRC), of which less than 50mm is usable in the 144. A longer ribbon sounds different. So if I wanted a longer ribbon than what's in the Austin (which is 50mm I think), I would need to use the Royer-shaped mic body.
What I'm trying to figure out is how big of a useful effect those slats have on the sound, and what can be done about them. Just some brainstorming:
1) They ought to cut down on treble, but is the amount of treble lost comparable to a finer mesh?
2) If I simply cut off the slats on the Royer-shaped one, is there anything about the body shape that would change the sound appreciably? I wouldn't think so.
3) Would there be a compelling reason to affect the top end with the body shape instead of simply using a thicker ribbon or different transformer?
I'm not sure that I can construct my own mic body. I have extremely limited metalworking tools at my disposal.
Thanks for the help.