How to start a recapping?

[living sounds]

All modern caps are low ESR though.

Are you sure about that? I don't think that's true.

I never, ever had any problem with recapping with a lower ESR capacitor, neither I know anyone that did.

I had, for example, a headphone amp hum like mad when I put low-ESR caps in the filtering section of its PSU (pre-regulator). Turns out LDOs do need a minimum ESR to be stable.

Some good info:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/are-low-esr-bypass-capacitors-ever-a-bad-idea/

 

[Whoops]

Are you sure about that? I don't think that's true.

Lower ESR than the older ones for sure.

 

[living sounds]

Lower ESR than the older ones for sure.

Yes, but "low-ESR" branded capacitors are of a different construction and different properties still, I think.

 

[Whoops]

Yes, but "low-ESR" branded capacitors are of a different construction and different properties still, I think.

I know what you mean, and you’re correct. Just wanted to make it simple for the Op

 

[Admiral-dk]

Thank you (Living Sounds) for the links about Low ESR problems - there are two REALLY great Ti.com links there :

Few links for further reading:
http://www.ti.com/lit/an/snva167a/snva167a.pdf
http://www.ti.com/lit/an/slva115/slva115.pdf

Per

 

[Rattakat]

Sorry i am so slow. Thanks for all the replies.

 

[Rattakat]

Thanks all, i wil read and try to understand it all.

 

[pvision]

I photograph the pcb, print it and annotate the printout with cap values. From that it's easy to create a list of required caps and see what changes can be made. If there are a few 10/16s (for example) and the rest are 10/25s, just replace all with 10/25s

If you're doing it regularly a Hakko desolder gun, although unreasonably expensive, does save a lot of time

 

[Redhouse]

All modern caps are low ESR though.
I never, ever had any problem with recapping with a lower ESR capacitor, neither I know anyone that did.

If the Op re-caps the device with any Panasonic or Nichicon cap he will be fine, no need to make it complicated, it's a simple operation

My 2 cents

I agree, and if you are using Nichicon brand they have a series called "Muse" that are specifically for audio applications. Been re-capping gear for years with them

 

[Admiral-dk]

I normally only change the Electrolytics that are Bad and the same goes for other Capacitors.
I use a Pro ESR (and component Tester) to check them and in many cases this can be done i situ on Tube Gear - though I sometimes need to lift a Pin on a neibor Resistor.

Side note - in all Vintage Teisco Amps I have had on the Bench (and other old Japanese using the same Oil+Paper Caps) - there is ALWAYS a number of those with too high Leakage Current. These are easily found, by removing All the Tubes and using a Vario-Transformer going slowly from Zero to rated Mains Voltage - while observing the Amps. If the Amp-Meter settles at close to Zero -> measure the Voltage on All the Grid Pins on the Sockets. Any one not measuring under 0.1Vdc. - I mark the previous Capacitor with a Red Permanet Marker.
When I have tested them all - I remove the Power and discarge the Electrolytes with a 1K Ohm 5W resistor I have connected with wires and Insulated Aligator Clips. After that I change the Caps marked Red one at a time - in order not to put a wrong size in the wrong place.

Per