inexpensive sub

[judejay]

I'm getting more into some electronica and dubstep style music and I'm now seeing that I really need a sub to hear and work with some of the frequencies I'm exploring. Can anyone recommend an inexpensive sub that would compliment my system? I guess a powered sub would be preferred-otherwise, I'll also need an inexpensive power amp-probably a second alesis.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[kags]

If you want to DIY, check out Parts Express. If you want to buy, you get what you pay for, but the Presonus Temblor 10 and the offerings from Kali punch above their weight. They are powered and provide crossovers.

 

[living sounds]

KRK 10S, as long as you don't send the signal for your stereo monitors through the sub's internal signal path (high distortion).

 

[vintagelove]

I'm getting more into some electronica and dubstep style music and I'm now seeing that I really need a sub to hear and work with some of the frequencies I'm exploring. Can anyone recommend an inexpensive sub that would compliment my system? I guess a powered sub would be preferred-otherwise, I'll also need an inexpensive power amp-probably a second alesis.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!

Check your local craigslist/Facebook/etc for a used HSU subwoofer. They are miles better than the affordable "studio subs". They will shake your f'kn guts and legitimately go down to like 16-18hz.

Another good brand to look for is Rythmik.

 

[kags]

The HSU subs have impressive specs. I’ve never seen, though they seem to be local (based in Anaheim). They are fair priced, though not “inexpensive,” as the OP stated. Plus, a crossover seems to be required, which is not a bad thing, but may increase the cost and complexity of the system.

I will definitely look into the HSU for myself and my installs.

Thanks!

 

[vintagelove]

The HSU subs have impressive specs. I’ve never seen, though they seem to be local (based in Anaheim). They are fair priced, though not “inexpensive,” as the OP stated. Plus, a crossover seems to be required, which is not a bad thing, but may increase the cost and complexity of the system.

I will definitely look into the HSU for myself and my installs.

Thanks!

Couple things,


1 - On the used market, there are lots of them for 2 reasons, first because some Home Theater guys are after the next big thing. "Oh the new model hits 1db more at 16hz, must have..." So you see a lot of few year old ones going for great prices... Second are the guys wives whose photos rattled off the wall and are like "that thing has to go".

2 - Depends on the speaker/room/etc. But... I installed their new affordable 12" model here with no crossover to fill out the bottom on some ATC here. Absolutely fantastic. I have it tuned very conservatively, but when I got it, I had a little fun and tested it with his bass reference CD.

That thing will rearrange your guts.

 

[JohnRoberts]

For monitoring mixes I would be inclined to attempt sonic accuracy (which could even involve bass traps and room treatment). If you can't do that try to mimic the sound systems the listeners will use.

If your system is way different than your listeners they will not hear what you hear.

JR

 

[judejay]

Appreciate all the replies . I was actually looking at the Rythmik too .

 

[zzzzz]

posting here for a cheap sub recommendation: we were using a Polk PSW10 (or maybe it was a PSW12? not the newer model though) for a looong time and it was very much totally fine and like, $80 used.

we have an Adam Sub8 now and it is probably an improvement, but also 10x the price.

I personally use a Yamaha HS8S and it rules, but also not $80 lol.

 

[ruairioflaherty]

KRK10S is great value and usually available on Craigslist or Facebook market place cheaply.

Not the most reliable but cheap enough that it doesn't matter.

 

[Whoops]

KEF PSW3000

or buy a PSW20xx series and do the upgrade mods to make it sturdy

 

[KrIVIUM2323]

Kef are greats but it seems they had issue with electronic QC in previous years ( many users had to get rid of electronics and diy their own in another forum i'm active in).

If OP have skills with woodwork then diy a sub by himself is not difficult at all.
Closed/sealed box + an Linkwitz Transform + classD amp can open to crazy low frequency response in room with acceptable distortion at ( relatively) high SPL if drivers are choosen carefully ( even cheap car subs works surprisingly well). I would advice using 2x sub in force cancellation mounting ( one on each facing side of box with if possible something making contact between magnets- can be bracing) if you listen to Dubstep or other heavy loaded bass style: it render box almost dead silent ( no secondary source through vibrating panels) with simple bracing technique ( lower overall count of material and no need for 5cm depth panels) and garantee you will never see your sub walk along your room by itself!

 

[Gold]

Kef are greats but it seems they had issue with electronic QC in previous years ( many users had to get rid of electronics and diy their own in another forum i'm active in).

OT: Since my ATC 100A's have been in the shop I've been using KEF LS50's. They are super fantastic IMO. I'm surprised they don't get more recognition. The midrange and imaging are second to none. I might like the midrange better than the ATC's. That's saying something as that is the strength of the ATC's. If the ATC's weren't able to be fixed within my budget I would have gotten the KEF R11's which are the LS50 driver with four 6.5" woofers per side.

On topic: I'm not a big fan of subs. I find that without acoustic measurements the chances of getting it right are very low. I'd rather do the mental math on an accurate small speaker than have thumping bass that has nothing to do with reality.

 

[KrIVIUM2323]

OT:
I think we share something in common relative to loudspeakers!

I had SCM110a as mains for something like 3 years. I totally recognize their quality about the mid dome, but i never was thrilled with them.
Fast forward, got some smaller Tannoy ( System800 passive i turned active as they have an 'issue' which is only solvable through an active cell -drivers are non coincidents and needs allpass filter to compensate) and it reminded me of a studio i worked in which they had System15mk2 i liked a lot at that time.

Since i've been playing with a number of PA coax, some so-so some very nice ( BMS ones are great if used with dsp) but size is an issue as lower than 10" i find them less interesting and being from PA origin they don't do bass so you need a third way and it quickly lead to fridge sized box (to be coherent with their efficiency).

Then i got an opportunity to buy a pair of Kef 1793 drivers (the one used in LS50 meta).

I play with them for a full year in different configuration and yes those are great drivers ( the serie of Helmotz resonator used in the 'meta' thingy is efficient and make them way better than previous gen imho)but like all coax they need a bass/sub dedicated way.

For my own preferences i prefer them in MTM with a pair of 8" sealed with an Linkwitz transform crossed over circa 400hz. I tryed to add a 4th way too ( dual opposed 12" as proposed in previous post xed around 100hz) and results are great ( they go sub 15hz and with 105db spl capability @ 1m which make them okay for k-20 with listening distance around 2,7/3m) , with 'tolerable' size ( big tower though but not very wide and deep (1,3m high, 30 cm wide, 45cm deep - mostly because of the sub and 8" ).

Other tests included cardioid loading and are promising ( copying/inspired by D&D 8c approach).

I miss the efficiency of bigger coax ( they lack a bit wrt dynamic imho) but directivity wise and from a step response point of view ( both drivers are almost coincident which isn't the case with 99% PA coax, hence the need for delay and dsp with them...) they are blameless. And with 'helper' driver it's less of an issue.



Sorry about the rambling, my last 10 years have been almost exclusively dedicated to loudspeaker designs...

 

[Gold]

I’m not a ‘speaker guy’ and have no interest in building any. I do generally like sealed cabinet designs. The only sealed cabinet in the KEF R series is the R6. It’s the coax driver in an MTM. It’s meant as a center channel speaker so I’m not sure if it is voiced the same as the rest of the line.

 

[KrIVIUM2323]

Not surprising you prefer sealed given what you do.
R6 can be used vertical no issue. They will even be better used like this : xover is at 500hz and given driver size and centre to centre spacing of the drivers you'll have the 'gain' mtm have ( lowering of floor/ceiling bounce issue, the closest to coaxial behavior of any possible driver layout- true for most vertically aligned couple of drivers).

The driver is a 'pure' medium, not the same used in LS50, but the same one used in the R5/7/11. It's better in some area than the 1793 ( directivity) and a bit less distortion in the 1/2khz range. It's a great driver too. Some diy'ers had great result with it. And i would not have concern about voicing, Kef use more or less the same passive xover over their range. Nicely build with attention to details ( capacitors which can be microphonic are wrapped in the same material they use in their cabinet for their CLD bracing scheme, inductors are nice,... can post pictures if you want, i got one of R5 in there ( but i took away the material from the capacitor).

Real issue is low end as they cut circa 60hz ( same as ns-10) but as they are sealed integration with a sub should be a breeze.

 

[Whoops]

Kef are greats but it seems they had issue with electronic QC in previous years ( many users had to get rid of electronics and diy their own in another forum i'm active in).

The PSW20xx series although great units had some problems with some components overheating,
but the problems are well recognized with lots of info around and the mods are very easy to do.

Actually for DIY people it's great that the PSW20xx had some problems has we can buy one of those units for cheap, do some easy mods and you have a great unit for a low price.

That's why I wrote "buy a PSW20xx series and do the upgrade mods to make it sturdy"

The PSW3000 series doesn't suffer from any of those issues

 

[StarTrucker]

For a modern sounding sub, JL Audio is considered by the Hi-Fi and car audio guys to be an industry leader. Don't know if it's your vibe but they're under 50 bucks on Facebook marketplace. Some come in boxes, but if you can build a box out of wood and cut a round-ish hole then you're in business with just a driver.

Some people think their car subs are better than home subwoofers.

Crown power amp? Dc300 is thought of as pretty classic.

I've heard good things about Hafler amps too but never heard one

 

[zzzzz]

Piggybacking off my earlier post -- if relevant, we have a powered Polk PSW505 that we keep around as a spare (we actually have two of them) that we are selling for very cheap lol. Does exactly what it should and has been reliable. Feel free to message me if interested. In Massachusetts but can ship.