Lorlin switch for low level signals

[Viitalahde]

Trying to think here whether to use a 4-pole attenuator made out of a Lorlin rotary switch for mic level signal or not, on a small-run product (that is intended to be pretty cheap but good)..

What's your view on their long term durability? As far as contacts go, I'm thinking of using a 3-pole, 4 position switch anyway and to parallel the three decks.

 

[Michael Tibes]

I remember having seen them as gold-plated versions (at Buerklin in Germany), I would try these for low-level applications. But they are a lot more expensive...

Michael

 

[Mbira]

What's your view on their long term durability?

I have had lorlins literally fall apart in my hand. I think their durrability is crap-either that, or I have just been extremely unlucky with the batches I have used. Unfortunately, there isn't anything else close to that price range...

 

[Viitalahde]

Joel, have they been genuine Lorlins or some other brands? Some seem very crappy, genuine Lorlin branded ones seem better.

I know, it's a compromise to use one.. I might just not.

 

[NewYorkDave]

isn't anything else close to that price range

Don't forget the Alpha open-frame rotaries from Mouser. They're more solid than the plastic Lorlins, but about the same price.

 

[Mbira]

Actually, those alphas are cool. I havn't had the chance to do the "mod" to make them not continuous rotation...

I don't think these are genuine "lorlin" brand, actually, I didn't think lorlin was a brand, as many of the philmore's, etc say lorlin right on the package...

The ones I use are from Mouser.

 

[gyraf]

I used Lorlins in the early series of the pro Gyraf stuff - and I haven't had a single switch to go bad or in need to be replaced of those batches. Occationally there's been a need to clean a switch that hasn't been used for looong time, but this is due to oxidation of the silver contacts, and will happen on any silver switch.

Overall, I feel that the Lorlin's (at least the "real" ones) are really good value for money. If you need long-term low contact resistance, use the MBB types if possible - they have larger and better self-cleaning contacts.

Jakob E.

 

[Viitalahde]

Thanks, Jakob. :thumb: My impressions have also been that real Lorlins feel better & sturdier than the unbranded copies. I've had no years of experience with them but I might just give them a chance. If the mechanics just hold up, I think the parallel poles will help. They'll be left unused anyway..

 

[gyraf]

Also, the Drawmer1960 used the Lorlins, and they seem to last relatively well..

 

[kruz]

i saw that farnell carries a rotary switch branded ITT that looks exactly like the Lorlin's
I think it's gold plated.. but i'm not 100% sure.

 

[Michael Krusch]

Manley has used the Lorins in the ealier Pultecs. Chandler is using Lorins. And I use Lorins in my studio gear for years without any problems.

 

[clintrubber]

IIRIC the 'Lorlins' from RS have an RS-branding on them.

Wasn't aware of first & second rate Lorlins...

 

[Greg]

Just wanted to mention I used the dual deck Alpha switches for a 1272 project. They worked out great and have a nice feel to them.

Only downside: An end-stop needs to be added.

 

[matta]

I just wanted to add what alot of other have shared...

In my Greens and SSL Bus Comp I used the Taiwan Alpha's (Lorlin copies), and while I have no complaints recently I purchase some REAL UK made Lorlins and they do indeed feel alot more sturdy than the Taiwan switches.

So far I've not had any problems with the Taiwan Alphas and still use them, I guess I'll know in years to come...

Cheers

Matt

 

[Mbira]

I'll have to find some real lorlins, I guess...

Joel