My A-P-I clone and a feedback loop. Did I destroy it?

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Category 5

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So silly me, I hooked the output of the channel a to the input of the channel a. in closed ear headphones I wondered why no output from the mic. As I proceeded to crank the gain I heard a ringing sound. i removed my headphones and noticed my error.

It was the transformers ringing...audibly! I immediately pulled the cables off and proceeded to test the preamp... Whew, the mic worked and sound came through.

Tonight I had a stereo pair hooked up (matched mind you) and noticed the output of channel 2 seemed noticably brighter than 1. I swapped cables, channels, pans, mics...always channel 2 was brighter.

Now I am worried! Did I fry my op-amp? Did I fry my transformers? (is that possible?).

Are my 1973 2520s just "different" and I never noticed it before?




Also, on preamp one the voltage pots and dc offset pot are a little twitchy compared to the pots on module 2. Could this be because I had heat on them too long while soldering? Channel 1 was my first and I may have done this. Also, could a less accurate +/- ratio or DC offset setting cause the effects I hear? I'd rather replace the pots than the op-amp, or transformers.

If it's the Op-Amps, at least I can get A-P-eye to replace them, can't I? Anyone know what this costs?

Thanks!
Shane
 
Shane, were you working in phones? If so, did you turn the phones around? If you're working in speakers, did you check to see if you blew a tweeter? Did the brighter channel lose gain and bottom?

API charges $75.00 plus the old opamp. You have to return one to get a new one


Good luck
 
I noticed something interesting (maybe minor) about the current 2520. I had a box open the other day and the opamps get quite hot as compared to any older version(s).
 
[quote author="tommytones"]I had a box open the other day and the opamps get quite hot as compared to any older version(s).[/quote]

same box ? ..... same rail voltage ?

I'm sure the 2520's have changed if only to accommodate component availability and supply issues over the years BUT as far as I know they only have the one version so to speak.

The other guys have slightly different models but I think all API2520's are trying to be the same thing.
 
[quote author="jrmintz"]Shane, were you working in phones? If so, did you turn the phones around? If you're working in speakers, did you check to see if you blew a tweeter? Did the brighter channel lose gain and bottom?

API charges $75.00 plus the old opamp. You have to return one to get a new one


Good luck[/quote]

Yes, I switched the headphones around, switched the pans around, swapped mics, and swapped mic cables. The first channel always sounds less bright than the second. Maybe tomorrow I will swap the op-amps and check the voltage levels, etc. Could a difference in positive and negative voltage cause trouble (i.e. +17.4, and -17.3)? The pots on the first one were tweaky, and I had a hard time getting voltage to match.

I also couldn't get the DC offset to rest at 0 permanently. it would fluctuate up to 1 and back to 0 (but were talking millivolts!).

Both channels still sound fantastic. Were I not comparing with a matched pair of mics I would have thought it was the mics. Until I stated swapping things around.

Maybe the op-amps are fine, and I just have 2 from differen manufacturing batches. Being that they are from 1973 I wonder what the consistency was like.

Shane

P.S. Any way to compare the 2 channels' frequency response using a scope? How would I do it?
 

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