Neebo 81 update parts list

[fuzzbox]

Ok so I've been comparing the tommytones boards with the ones in the
manuals from neve.
heres what I got, and can one of you guys check that I'm not off the mark.
I lost all the spacing between the numbers in this post!
so heres an explanation

"Q1 tr7 bc441 same"

Q1 is tommytones transistor # on pcb
tr7 neebs equivalent on schematic
bc441 tommy's
same neebs

I put a mark (***) on parts that do not jive with neeb schematic

340 amp parts
tommy's neeb's tommy's neeb's

Q1 tr7 bc441 same
Q2 tr5 bc441 same
Q3 tr8 bc461 same
Q4 tr4 bc461 same
Q5 tr6 bc441 same
Q6 tr3 bc184c same
Q7 tr1 bc214kc same
Q8 tr2 bc184c same

diodes

d1 d1 1n4148 bax13
d2 d2 1n4148 bax13
d3 d3 AA144 AA144

caps

c1 c5 .o1uf/100v 10n
c2 c3 220pf same
c3 c2 10uf same
c4 c1 22uf same

resistors

r1 r13 100k 1s or 15 pls check
r2 r14 100k same as above
r3 r11 10k 10k
r4 r12 560 560
r5 r8 560 560
r6 r10 150 150
r7 r5 2k7 2k7
r8 r7 2k2 2k2
r9 r4 15k 15k
r10 r9 560 560
r11 r6 4k7 47k ***
r12 r1 3k6 36k ***
r13 r5 4k7 47k ***
r14 r2 18k 18k

amp 338
tommy's neeb tommy's neeb

Q1 tr2 bc184 bc184
Q2 tr3 bc184 bc184
Q3 tr1 bc214 bc214
Q4 tr5 bc441 bc441
Q5 tr4 bc461 bc461

diodes
d1 d1 bax13 bax13
d2 d2 bax13 bax13
d3 d3 AA144 AA144

Caps
c1 c3 100pf 100pf
c2 c6 10pf 0.01 ***
c3 c2 22uf 22p ***
c4 c1 0.1uf 10uf ***
c4 ---- 68p

resistors

r1 r12 10k 10k
r2 r13 560 560
r3 can't find r3 on the card
r4 r10 47k 560 ***
r5 r6 7k5 47k ***
r6 r14 2k2 7k5 ***
r7 r8 560 2k2 ***
r8 r9 7k5 560 ***
r9 r5 2k7 7k5 ***
r10 r4 22k 2k7 ***
r11 r1 150 22k ***
r12 r11 12k 150 ***
r13 r2 47k 12k ***
this could be the missing R3
r14 r3 --- 47k

308 amp

tommys neeb tommy's neeb

Q1 tr5 bc214c same
Q2 tr6 bc184c same
Q3 tr4 bc214c same
Q4 tr3 bc184c same
Q5 tr2 bc214c same
Q6 tr1 bc214c same

caps

c1 c3 10pf 10n/250v***
c2 c2 10pf 8p2/100v***
c3 c1 10pf 8p2/100v***

resistors
r1 r8 100 100
r2 r7 33k 33k
r3 r5 3k2 3k2
r4 r4 100 100
r5 r6 22k 22k
r6 r3 33k 33k
r7 r1 47k 47k
r8 r2 1m 1m


I can't check the main board no schematic. Hope this helps .
Rob

lost all the spaces???

 

[rafafredd]

Man, this is great work! It will be very good for all of us doing some 1081.

 

[fuzzbox]

I'll try and do the same for the main board, but I can't see alot of the resistor values on my computer screen . I'll try and get a good printout at work.

 

[Zee1usa]

Thank you Fuzzbox !

I have a pair of pcb, trafos , inductors , switches and knobs.

I have not even started this project yet, but hope too soon.

If there is somthing I could do to help.. I am willing.

I cant wait to see some of these things finished.



Z

 

[fuzzbox]

Main Board same deal here

*** means different values
If anyone can verify that I'm not off the mark I'd appreciate it.
also it apparently doesn't make a difference using 6m8 resistors
or 4m7.




Tommy?s neebo tommy?s neebo


Resistors

R1 R4 47 47
R2 R7 10k 10k
R3 R57 6m8 4m7
R4 R56 6m8 4m7
R5 R55 6m8 4m7
R6 R56 6m8 4m7
R7 R52 6m8 4m7
R8 R51 6m8 4m7
R9 R50 6m8 4m7
R10 R49 6m8 4m7
R11 R47 6m8 4m7
R12 R46 6m8 4m7
R13 R45 6m8 4m7
R14 R44 6m8 4m7
R15 R48 6m8 4m7
R16 R43 15K 15K
R17 R42 620 620
R18 R6 1k1 1k1
R19 R5 100 100
R20 NA 12k NA
R21 NA 68k1 NA
R22 R3 NA 1k5
R23 R58 620 620
R24 R53 6m8 4m7
R25 R60 10k 10k
R26 R59 47 47
R27 R27 47 47
R28 R40 47 47
R29 R88 3k5 3k5
R30 R15 15k 15k
R31 R26 2k 4k3 ***
R32 R25 3k5 6k9 ***
R33 R28 10k 10k
R34 R29 15k 30k ***
R35 R89 3k6 3k6
R36 R39 2k 6k2 ***
R37 R41 10k 10k
R38 R24 6m8 4m7
R39 R23 6m8 4m7
R40 R22 6m8 4m7
R41 R21 6m8 4m7
R42 R20 6m8 4m7
R43 R19 6m8 4m7
R44 R18 6m8 4m7
R45 R17 6m8 4m7
R46 R16 6m8 4m7
R47 R31 6m8 4m7
R48 R32 6m8 4m7
R49 R34 6m8 4m7
R50 R36 6m8 4m7
R51 R30 6m8 4m7
R52 R33 6m8 4m7
R53 R35 6m8 4m7
Tommy?s neebo?s tommy?s neebo?s

R54 R37 6m8 4m7
R55 R38 6m8 4m7
R56 R84 1k1 3k ***
R57 R85 1k3 3k3 ***
R58 R87 1k6 3k6 ***
R59 R86 1k3 3k? ***
R60 R61 620 620
R61 R63 6m8 4m7
R62 R64 6m8 4m7
R63 R65 6m8 4m7
R64 R66 6m8 4m7
R65 R67 6m8 4m7
R66 R68 6m8 4m7
R67 R69 6m8 4m7
R68 R70 6m8 4m7
R69 R71 6m8 4m7
R70 R72 6m8 4m7
R71 R73 6m8 4m7
R72 R74 6m8 4m7
R73 R75 6m8 4m7
R74 R62 15k 15k
R75 R76 47 47
R76 R78 10k 10k
R77 R77 620 620
R78 R14 10k 10k
R79 R11 47 47
R80 R13 620 620
R81 R12 4k3 4k3
R82 R8 2k7 2k7
R83 R9 7k5 7k5
R84 R10 470 470
R85 R83 100 100
R86 R82 100 100
R87 R80 15k 15k
R88 R79 3k9 3k9

CAPACITORS

Electrolytic

Tommy?s neebo?s Tommy?s Neebo?s

C100 C5 100/25v 100/25v
C101 C4 150/16v 150/16v
C102 C6 150/16v 150/16v
C103 C73 150/16v 150/16v
C104 C31 150/16v 150/16v
C105 C72 100/25v 100/25v
C106 C30 100/25v 100/25v
C107 C54 150/16v 150/16v
C108 C53 100/25v 100/25v
C109 C17 150/16v 150/16v
C110 C94 150/16v 150/16v
C111 C93 100/25v 100/25v
C112 C16 100/25v 100/25v
C113 C95 150/16v 150/16v
C114 C98 100/25v 100/25v
C115 C99 100/25v 100/25v
C18 C2 470/16v ****** 470/25v
C78 C96 470/16v 470/16


TANTALUM

Tommys neebos tommys neebos

C23 C70 22/16v 22/16v
C27 C26 22/16v 22/16v
C28 C101 22/16v 22/16v
C29 C51 22/16v 22/16v
C26 C100 22/16v 22/16v
C74 C91 22/16v 22/16v


Film 10%

C61 C80 1.5 1.5

Silver Mica

C121 C59 0.022/250v 0.022
C116 C69 0.022/250v 0.022
C137 C32 0.1/250v 0.1
C133 C38 0.033/250v 0.033
C132 C40 0.022/250v 0.022
C131 C42 0.022/250v 0.022
C146 C77 0.1/250v 0.1
C141 C87 0.1/250v 0.1


Polystyrene


Tommys neebos tommys neebos

C21 C1 1200p 1200p
C17 C7 470p 470p
C11 C60 1800p 1800p
C10 C61 680p 680p
C9 C62 1000p 1000p
C8 C63 1500p 1500p
C7 C64 2200p 2200p
C37 C20 6800p 6800p
C36 C21 6800p 6800p
C35 C22 4700p 4700p
C34 C23 3300p 3300p
C33 C24 3900p 3900p
C32 C25 2700p 2700p
C31 C26 2700p 2700p
C30 C27 1800p 1800p
C54 C43 4700p 4700p
C53 C45 2700p 2700p
C52 C47 3300p 3300p
C51 C50 2200p 2200p
C79 C15 3300p 3300p
C87 C11 3300p 3300p

Ceramic

C62 C81 0.68/250 0.68

Polystyrene

C124 C56 0.01/250v 0.01
C123 C57 0.01/250v 0.01
C118 C67 0.01/250v 0.01
C119 C66 0.01/250v 0.01
C126 C19 0.01/250v 0.01
C128 C49 0.01/250v 0.01
C144 C79 0.01/250v 0.01
C139 C89 0.01/250v 0.01
C148 C12 0.01/250v 0.01

Polyester

C125 C55 0.015/250v 0.015
C122 C58 0.015/400v 0.015
C120 C65 0.015/250v 0.015
C117 C68 0.015/400v 0.015
C127 C18 0.015/400v 0.015
C136 C34 0.068/250v 0.068
C135 C35 0.047/250v 0.047
C134 C36 0.047/250v 0.047
C129 C46 0.015/250v 0.015
C130 C44 0.015/250v 0.015
C147 C74 0.068/250v 0.068
C56 C75 0.33/250v 0.33
C57 C76 0.22/250v 0.22
C145 C78 0.47/250v 0.047***
C153 C8 0.15/250v 0.15
C63 C82 0.47/250v 0.47
C143 C83 0.22/250v 0.22
C65 C84 0.33/250v 0.33
C66 C85 0.33/250v 0.33
C142 C86 0.22/250v 0.22
C140 C88 0.047/250v 0.047
C138 C90 0.068/250v 0.068
C149 C9 0.15/250v 0.15
C150 C14 0.15/250v 0.15
C151 C10 0.15/250v 0.15
C152 C13 0.15/250v 0.15

 

[Cainester]

This project freaks me out man.

 

[fuzzbox]

Yeah this project is a monster... for me it's already a year and a half in the making and I have yet to heat up the solder. Gonna start this week.

 

[fuzzbox]

A little update...
On the 338 c3 is 22uf not 22p my mistake.
also I think important on TT's 340 board C3,C4 both tants the polarity should be reversed. unless the neebo users guide is wrong.

Now does any one know where I could get the millmax pins for these amps? a part number would help, and a place I could find those .01/250v polystyrene's
Thx

 

[tommypiper]

Fuzzbox, good work. Mill-max can be ordered through Mouser. I've called them a few times and have ordered several versions of pins that work.

Tommytones also suggested to use spare wire or leads from resistors and such as the pins. I think this is the easiest and cheapest ($0) way to go. The only advantage of using actual pins and sockets is to be able to readily swap amp blocks. But if you find a close diameter fit from the spare wire off capacitors and the like, you can cut it to length and it should work about as well straight into the mother board holes. To really secure it once you're finished testing you can then solder the "pins" in place in the mother board. This will be even more secure than using actual pins and sockets. You can always desolder and remove the "pins" later if needed.

EDIT: In fact you can use long home made "pins" with this in mind, so if you ever need to remove a soldered amp block from the mother board, simply snip the pins close to the mother board and then desolder the remaining stud from the motherboard holes. The remaining length of pins left in the amp block should still be long enough to go right back into the mother board holes and you're running again. All you need is a semi-snug fit of wire into the holes, it doesn't have to be perfect by any means to get a decent connection. You would solder in place after testing.

If you still want to buy pins:

Pins, short: 3102-3-00-21-00-00-08-0. (Mill-max number)
These are gold pins, fairly short to accomodate heatsinks on the 340s, in case you are mounting in original chassis which has limited space (.188" length).
3103... rest same number are longer pins (.3") Heatsinks may still fit in an original chassis, not sure though. Would certainly work on all the other daughter cards. And you can probably cut to length in a pinch.

Some daughter cards actually sit on top of resistors on the mother board, so some clearance is needed. The short pins should still be high enough for that. Or mount the resistors on opposite side of mother board.

Sockets: 3450-0-15-15-18-27-04-0. These are universal sockets which fit both 340 and 440 diameter pins. (Original 440 pins are thicker and longer than 340) These sockets sit above the motherboard and raise the daughter cards already some amount, thus the short pins above.

They are not the same as original Neebo sockets - which sat more flush within the motherboard, at least with 440 amps, (340 sockets may have been more like these millmax height) and therefore original 440 pins will be too long if you are using a heatsink in an original chassis with these sockets. But the 440 pins can be snipped. I digress...

TT suggested these as solder posts: 2112-3-01-44-00-00-07-0 which fit in the boards well. Or you can just stick the wire into the holes and solder, which seems more secure to me. I think there are some points where a solder post looked handy, but can't recall where and certainly can make do without if you are careful to solder your wires before crowding the access to holes with nearby components.

Every time I get up to speed on this project ? which involves staring at the parts and boards for days, I get interrupted and I forget everything and it's months before I can start again. Still haven't heated solder. Still collecting parts and waiting for my kids to grow up. :wink:

cheers,
tommypiper