One More Vote for a Metalworking Thread (CNC & Hand tool

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N

northsiderap

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2005
Messages
223
Location
Michigan
Any links for DIY CNC milling and cutting would be great. I fully plan on DIY'ing my own industrial sized CNC miller/driller soon.

I am currently researching CNC machinery, and I've found that it's probably up a lot of people's alleys. I know it's up mine, with a background in metalworking and computer programming.

Who wouldn't want a nice batch of faceplates with perfectly square VU holes and their personal logo etched into it somewhere? How about a batch of 100 condenser microphone backplates to your specs? Did I mention PCB etching? Mic bodies?

Or how about just a single backplate?

Then again, I'm a total doofus with this search function, so if someone's started a good DIY CNC thread, point the way.
 
I've been using the Sherline mill and lathe set. They are quite stiff and I've drilled probably somewhere between 4000 and 6000 holes in mic capsule backplates (solid-carbide #67 and #57 drill bits) without a single broken bit. That is actually quite a feat because carbide bits that small snap so easily it's not even funny. If you are planning on doing backplates, this is where you really need to look at runout and stiffness specifications very carefully.

My mill is CNC equipped, I built my own controller using four Allegro Micosystems microstepping control/driver IC's (X,Y,Z, and rotary table), and am using the artofcnc.ca Mach 2 control software for it. The lathe I've got is a manual one. I use both machines mostly for building mic capsules. I've added a Mitutoyo digital dial gauge to my lathe setups when I am cutting capsules on the lathe. I don't think the digital readouts supplied by Sherline are accurate enough for capsule work.

The down side to these machines are that they are quite small. If you get the optional spacer kits, though, you can actually work on most audio-related things without too much difficulty.
 
Hans W.'s CNC page (good and simple computer/stepper interface, the "Bi-Polar Motor Driver") http://hans-w.com/cnc.htm

Majosoft - many ideas.. http://www.majosoft.com/

Artsoft - really great and affordable NC programs: http://www.artofcnc.ca/

CNC-zone forums - the GroupDIY of mechanics: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/index.php?

Jakob E.
 
Hey Dale,
I was looking into some CNC small Mills and your set up sounds very interesting. Do you have any idea of how much your CNC controller stuff ended up costing you?? Does it work well? I'm assuming it does.
I was thinking about getting a Taig, or Grizzly, or Jet mill. I'm mainly looking for one that has at least 20" or X travel so I can do front panels in one shot. Do you have any recomendations??
As far as the CNC package, I was looking into a 3 or 4 axis small set up from lowcostcncretrofits.com. But they are not as low cost as the web site says... hehe.
Any input would be awesome.
thanks
Gil
 
I have a taig and sieg lathe the taig is a toy it chatters to much when cutting. Brass 'like" to "grab" the bits even setup at the correct cutting height.

The Sieg needs to be setup better. I need to learn how to scrape the bed to true the compond. My sieg cuts convex when doing a facing cut, Even taking into acount heat build up difference from outside to inside. Capsules need the lathe as close to 100% as possable. I do use it for making bodies and parts for my microphones.

If I was to do this again I might buy the mill and lathe Dale bought.
 
my dad told me about a kind of machinists vice that he saw that would probably be perfect for the kind of projects here. it attaches to a drill press, and can move in 2 planes via a hand cranks. (similar to the way the front jaw of a standard vice moves). with this ability to move, you could lower your bit into the workpiece and then move the piece into the bit, like a mill or router, to cut out straight lines.

i haven't found information on the web for any of these, so it's possibly a custom job, however, it wouldn't be extremely difficult to make one.
 
1531.jpg


A "Jacobs Vice" - note different spelling.. :razz:

The threads/leadscrews are not very precise, so it looks better than it really works. But is OK for some purposes..

Jakob E.
 
I still have a Whitney punch available if anyone is interested. It mounts on a table top, and is consider a 2 or 4 ton punch. It was used to punch a square hole through stainless steel. All sorts of bits are available for it.


Please someone take this off my hands! Its heavy so it would have to be a "pickup" only. Retail was over $2k. I would trade for a completed DIY compressor, or preamp or a decent mic or what ever! I could use some input tranies and some opamps.

Please take this off my hands......and I will probably regret it too.

Joe
 
Nope! Chicago IL. USA (I updated my profile to reflect this)

If you can figure out a way to ship it overseas, I am sure we could work a great deal out. I think it weighs about 125LB....

Joe
 
Q: What types of metal and applications can be used with a Plasma cutter?

A: Plasma will cut any metal that is electrically conductive including steel, aluminum, copper, and stainless steel. Keep in mind that your cut will be de-rated a little with the softer metals like aluminum, copper, and stainless
Click to expand...

direct from miller electric

http://www.millerwelds.com/education/faq/plasma/buyingplasma.html

sounds like a good buy to me :thumb:
 
plasma cutter does not make kind of crude cut and tend to deform thin metals, dont forget you also need a compressor (and not a 1176)
 
[quote author="BR"]Hey Dale,
Do you have any idea of how much your CNC controller stuff ended up costing you?? Does it work well? I'm assuming it does.
[/quote]

It works well but you need a reliable computer behind it. Some computers will lock up occasionally when running a setup like this. Part of it is the brushed motor that the Sherline setup uses. Other than that, it works very well.

The motors I ordered with the Sherline mill, and they are sized for that type of mill... they might be too small for a larger one. In any case, I think they were around $55 or $60 per motor, but check on the Sherline page. I got 4 motors, X,Y,Z, and either A or C (rotary table) axis.

I DIY'ed the drive board, using point-to-point wiring and some Allegro IC, but I would have to look up the part number. I think it's a 3A microstepping unipolar controller. I think that cost about $200 to build, including a 24V power supply, which I salvaged from some old equipment.

If you want to build mic capsules, those requirements are quite high. My cuts on the Sherline lathe are actually pretty good - it doesn't chatter much on normal free-machining brass. Some of the hard brass alloys (like the one used on 797 Audio capsules) do like to chatter and gall on this lathe, and that's a case of needing the right cutter and a lot more power. A small lathe does mean that you need to spend more time getting the tool angles and heights set up right. I've found that using carbide inserts really helps me get a consistent finish.

I've not actually done any milling on my mill because I don't want to put side-loads on the spindle (which will wear it out quicker). Basically, I'd like to save my mill for drilling without bit breakage with those nice carbide bits. I use the 'PC Board' drill bits from McMaster-Carr. They are brittle, they break easily, but they give a nice finish and a straight and centred hole. I do have a bit of milling I want to do, so I might do a bit of light cutting in the next little while and let you know how it goes.
 
Hey Dale,
I was looking into something like this:
https://www.travers.com/index.asp
type OTMT mill, and its the first one listed.
I'm not quite sure what the specifications are, or even if its suited for
CNC retrofit, but it looks good to my non-machinist eye.
I have no intention of doing capsules, since its way over my head, but maybe some capsule mounts/rings.
BTW, did you get my email about the mount that I just machined?? anyways, I have one and would like to test with your capsule, maybe I can send it to you, or, you could send me one reject/broken.. and I'll send it back to you..

Anyways, back to the topic.
My idea was to retrofit it with a servo package from lowcostcncretrofit.com. I don't think I want to venture into diy my own controllers and such. I heard its a pain.

The reason why I'm going with a slightly bigger machine is for front panels and such.

Thanks for the tips.
Gil
 

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