> IV2 tube recifier. can I just use silicon diodes instead the tube?
Yes, though they will have to be over 2,000 Volt rating, not ordinary 1N1006 rectifiers.
However if you had no high voltage, you would have no spot at all, so I think you have high voltage.
> the tube make noise if I shake it.
Not a good sound, but many tubes have loose parts and still work. The insulating support can snap off, or bits of welding splatter. As long as they lay in the base, they do no harm. Maybe a little microphonic if the support broke, but not a big problem, certainly good enough to check for other trouble.
> I need a tester with 100M input..
Yes, it is difficult to check the high voltage directly. The rectifier output might support a 10Meg voltmeter, but very few modern voltmeters will survive 1,000+V on their inputs. But note that the voltage divider resistor chain has low-voltage taps, which are also lower impedance. If you get about 100V on a tap that calculates as about 100/1400 of the total HV, you have HV. The exact HV is not critical: I had a CRT rated for 1,000V, built with 450V supply, and I re-built it with 300V supply. Brightness is a little less, but sensitivity is better. As as you say, brightness improves with focus: a good sharp focus does not need a lot of HV.
> the screen look as if we look through a magnifier. maybe is caused for a low tencion on the CRT.
No, as the HV gets smaller, with the same signal voltage, the sweep gets bigger. I could only get 50V signals, and with 600V CRT HV supply that was only half-screen. When I dropped to 300V on the CRT HV, I got full-screen sweeps. So for biggest picture you want small HV. Not too small or it will be dim. But more important than voltage is getting all the voltages in the right proportion. That is what Focus and Astig do.
Small sweep sure sounds like the Signal amplifiers are sick, maybe low B+ voltage. And if your funny unmarked capacitors are glass, then I sure would bet that the 450V Electrolytics in the B+ are sick before I would worry about the HV caps. If the B+ is low and also full of ripple, you will get exactly what you put into the CRT signal electrodes: a lot of 100Hz/120Hz wobble.
Put a jumper wire across the plates of the Vertical output tube, another on the Horizontal output tube. This will force the Signal voltage into the CRT to be "zero", while still getting the normal DC voltage. You should now get a tight dot. It may not be centered: the CRT is never perfectly centered. It might not even be on screen: I had a CRT that I could not get a dot on until I held a small magnet near the neck, then I could pull the spot on screen. With that clue, I put the CRT on a tape eraser, and now it gave a spot slightly off-center: the CRT was magnetized! When you do get a spot, and are able to focus it small, keep the Intensity low and don't leave the spot on for very long. A stationary spot will burn the screen.
None of your links work. "File Transfer: Incorrect link ... You have clicked on an invalid or stale link." Maybe that photo-host does not like too many hits.
where I put the... ´t ... :roll: 
