Peerless E-372-Q dead?

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JMK

Active member
Joined
Feb 27, 2016
Messages
32
Location
Denmark, Copenhagen
Hi there,

Just bought this one of exbay, listed as "USED IN GOOD WORKING CONDITION" and "The label has been worn from use, but it is the E-372-Q model."  I think something is wrong

Took some dcr measurements
(No shorts from pri to sec)

peerls.jpg


1-2    87.4 Ω                                           
1-3    436.2 Ω
1-4    O.L
1-5    O.L
1-6    O.L

2-3    350 Ω
2-4    O.L
2-5    O.L
2-6    O.L

3-4    O.L
3-5    O.L
3-6    O.L

4-5    O.L
4-6    O.L ??

5-6    87.8 Ω

7-8    6 Ω
7-9  16.5 Ω
7-10    O.L
7-11    O.L
7-12    O.L
8-9    10.5 Ω
8-10  O.L
8-11  O.L
8-12  O.L
9-10 O.L

10-11  10.5 Ω
10.12  16 Ω
11-12  5.5 Ω

Tried to hook it up as a line input  no lows down from 100hz
When 4-6 is connected it will pass low freq.

Defect or maybe not the E-372-Q?
Help is much appreciated!
 
looks like 4-5 might be open,


rest is good

what usage?maybe get away with half pri
 
CJ said:
looks like 4-5 might be open,


rest is good

what usage?maybe get away with half pri

Knew you would find this one ;)

Its for a switch-box project between the 12AY7 pultec and the standard. did go pretty well until this
Yes just checked again looks like its busted, dont think it would work out  :'(
Any ideas?







 
that is a 600 to 600 so you have other problems with high DCR

a lot of the times the trouble is at the terminal [late, so if you can figure out where the hood latch is you can pop the hood and take a shot at it,


having no luck, my advice would be to swallow hard and file it in the nearest trash receptacle, you will know better next time,

or send it here for a complete blueprint operation,  :D

here is the scratch sheet:





 

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CJ said:
that is a 600 to 600 so you have other problems with high DCR

a lot of the times the trouble is at the terminal [late, so if you can figure out where the hood latch is you can pop the hood and take a shot at it,


having no luck, my advice would be to swallow hard and file it in the nearest trash receptacle, you will know better next time,

or send it here for a complete blueprint operation,  :D

here is the scratch sheet:

Now this is wierd!
Ok, took a closer look under a magnifying glass, and its difficult to see, but this reads 48 at the last digits on the sticker?
So this could be the S448Q?
 
that makes more sense,

usually winds are shorted or open,

those pri ohms readings align with a tube wind,

and the current thru the tube is what killed 4-5

you could use 1/2 the pri to make a cool LA2 comp as you have no unbal DC

 
CJ said:
that makes more sense,

usually winds are shorted or open,

those pri ohms readings align with a tube wind,

and the current thru the tube is what killed 4-5

you could use 1/2 the pri to make a cool LA2 comp as you have no unbal DC

Thank you for your help here!
Yes just checked in the peerless catalog, it must be the 448
Also makes more sense to why it has failed.
Cant find any schematic on it, but know that it could be used as output for pultec 1a, just without the feedback winding

Now pretty interesting, this one go for much more, so i dont  feel so riped off anymore.
Like you suggested, maybe its just burned off at the 4th terminal, i could only open the backside
its filled with some soft black wax, but cant seem to get the top lid off this thing.  :eek:

Just found this one too http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/vintage-peerless-altec-s448q-2098226

"readings are: pins 3&4=814 ohms,2&3=330,4&5=322, 2&5=160, 8&9= 9, 8&11= 10,9&10= 30, 11&9=20ohms pins 7&12,1&6 are strapped. Date code 224"

When i strap 1-6 and 7-12 i will have almost the same readings. all the SEC match up. but, 198 ohm from 2-5 and nothing from 3-4
Will this  indicate that its not just the pin, but actually inside the winding maybe?
 
sometimes digital meters give weird readings with some transformers,

probably the inductance, put a signal thru the primary and see how the waveform looks at the secondary,
 
nice!  how did u get all the blak tar off?  was it wrapped like a mummy?

you can recheck ohms if you strip the leads

 
CJ said:
nice!  how did u get all the blak tar off?  was it wrapped like a mummy?

you can recheck ohms if you strip the leads

It was really hard to work with, i used a screwdriver to carefully scrape it off.
There was a very nasty old paper on the top completely destroyed when the hat came off  :)

I hope its not destroyed now i had to break the wires to get it off.
I have some readings here, wires have random numbers, but does not add up to previous readings, maybe just me being stupid..

DCRnumber.png


 
CJ said:
nice!  how did u get all the blak tar off?  was it wrapped like a mummy?

you can recheck ohms if you strip the leads

Could it be that some wires are missing or open maybe?
wierd.. does not look like it
It suddenly just crawled out saying "please dont make this idiot do anymore damage" But i cannot promise that, i just cant.
bd8c4c1.jpg

c14a2bb.jpg

c2db743.jpg


 

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