phone system power supply

[hitchhiker]

I've got this rather large (6 rack space) multi voltage phone system power supply and I am wondering what else it's good for?
Is it worth sourcing the large male cinch connector?

Voltages are 30v  5v  24v  7.5v  15v

Where were these older phone systems used?

 

[Gene Pink]

I've got this rather large (6 rack space) multi voltage phone system power supply and I am wondering what else it's good for?
Is it worth sourcing the large male cinch connector?

Post a picture, I have stripped a few of these or similar, and for some stupid packrat reason, I still save stuff like that.

Voltages are 30v  5v  24v  7.5v  15v

No minuses?

Where were these older phone systems used?

The last one I stripped was an ATT Horizon system, 80 lines with an 80 line extender, from a high-tech company.  They outgrew 160 lines in the late '80s. These days, they have their own exchange, and you have likely heard of them.

To answer you question, any large company with many phone lines.

Gene

 

[hitchhiker]

Thanks for the reply Gene.

pic of the connector-

 

[hitchhiker]

the Nitsuco model  TC-22

 

[hitchhiker]

The fuse panel

 

[Gene Pink]

pic of the connector-

I believe you want a P-324-CCT-L The L is locking, you don't really need that option, but your female has the slots. (NPI)

I don't know this company, 10 bucks. Minimum order is $25, they might have other things that you can't live without. Looks like an interesting place, large selection of knobs ranging from "decent price" to "Waddaya, nuts?"

https://www.tedss.com/2025004056

There is a pdf datasheet link at the bottom of that page, dimensions and such.

Or 10 bucks without the locks, on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/302056014337?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

Gene

 

[hitchhiker]

Thanks again, that does look like the right connector. 

I'm guessing the 30 volt  is the 10 amp fuse and the 24 volt is 3 amp?

 

[Gene Pink]

Thanks again, that does look like the right connector. 

On looking again, the ebay one has the nice, old-school wrinkled finish metal housing, the other one is the cheap plastic.Tthe ebay one would be the one to get, assuming your supply actually works. Otherwise, what's the point?

I'm guessing the 30 volt  is the 10 amp fuse and the 24 volt is 3 amp?

No way to tell without measuring, the 5V may well be handled by the 10 amp fuse., powering a bunch of logic downstream. It would have been nice if they labeled the fuses by what they covered.

Safest way, power up, measure and write down what voltages you get at the output connector, draw a pinout. Note that there may also be main voltages in that connector to extend to something else, be careful. That connector has a lot of pins for only a few voltages, it is an unknown and should be treated as such. It also may be dead, waiting for a confirmation signal to say "OK, I'm plugged in to a load, I can turn on now", this is much more likely if it is a switching supply.

Once you have mapped out the voltages, remove each fuse one at a time, and see what voltages go away. One of those fuses may be for the mains.

If those voltages are useful to you, that's great, you have a free bench supply. If not, a hefty 12V lightbulb in series with the +15 will make a decent trickle charger for your car battery. ;-)

Gene

 

[hitchhiker]

thanks Gene, 

All very good  advice!

BTW, there is another fuse at the power on switch.

Lance