Plate reverb driver repair - unknown maker

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The characteristic "plate" reverb sound is generally brighter than other reverbs. They even used chambers (rooms) in the way back machine with a "darker" sound.

A plate excited by a nearby speaker could be useful, more like a chamber sound than a typical plate. Natural reverb FWIW is not very bright, so if it sounds good, it is good.

JR

PS: Do people still sell plate reverb kits? what do they use for drivers?
 
PS: Do people still sell plate reverb kits? what do they use for drivers?
Making a driver from a speaker coil is DIY able I think.
I don't know if there was ever a kit including the steel plate. That's the hard part for a DIY effort..
EMT used cold rolled steel and rejected plates that didn't sound good (I've read).
Ecoplates used stainless steel.
Thickness is important. The smaller the plate the thinner it needs to be.
 
JohnRoberts said:
what do they use for drivers?
Perhaps a "ButtKicker", used by drummers to shake the thrones for some unknown reason, would work. Remove the LPF from the amp(?), or just use a much smaller full range amp, as the version that Pearl sells are 200W, 5-200hz, and we're not looking to buckle the sheet metal, or fatigue it into confetti. ;D

Gene

 
They even used chambers (rooms) in the way back machine with a "darker" sound.
I messed around with re-amping through rooms & stairways a lot and the sound was always pretty thin (just treble) - not a full range reverb. Now I have a large warehouse space with a curved ceiling (60' by 60' room) and the reverb is lush and full - and even warbles like a plate.  So I don't know what the chambers in the classic old studios sounded like, but from my experience re-amped chambers can sound really different and the larger the room the fuller the reverb.
I wouldn't say a plate is bright but it has shiny-ness that is distinct from other reverbs.
Like I said, I don't hear a difference with how the plate is driven. The only difference was in the very low frequencies and that was probably just because the monitor speaker wasn't putting them out.
 
dmp said:
I messed around with re-amping through rooms & stairways a lot and the sound was always pretty thin (just treble) - not a full range reverb. Now I have a large warehouse space with a curved ceiling (60' by 60' room) and the reverb is lush and full - and even warbles like a plate.  So I don't know what the chambers in the classic old studios sounded like, but from my experience re-amped chambers can sound really different and the larger the room the fuller the reverb.
Yes, the dimensions and shape of the acoustic space define the time interval of the repeats and character of the sound envelope.  More delay between repeats, but not enough to be heard as echoes is generally preferable.  Strong parallel wall repeats can cause flutter-echos.  Many early chambers were accidental spaces that were repurposed because they sounded good.  Of course what sound energy you drive into the room, and where makes a difference, as well as well as where you sniff for output. Eq on both ends could be useful.
I wouldn't say a plate is bright but it has shiny-ness that is distinct from other reverbs.
I try not to argue with people about what they hear.  I probably shouldn't fixate too much on such generalizations. The speed of sound in metal is very fast, and losses if the plate if undamped will be modest. Some plates have a variable (felt?) damper.
Like I said, I don't hear a difference with how the plate is driven. The only difference was in the very low frequencies and that was probably just because the monitor speaker wasn't putting them out.
Acoustically coupling to a plate "should" be different from mechanically coupling to a plate. As well as where the mechanical transducer is positioned will interact with standing vibration nodes and/or antinodes (kind of like a big rectangular drumhead, where you hit it matters).  For my drum tuner I basically point a speaker at the drumhead to vibrate it, but apples and oranges, or worse so I shouldn't try to extrapolate too much. 

I've seen DIY plates made from cheap galvanized sheet metal so I expect there is a range of different outcomes from a number of variables.  Sorry I don't mean to sound like I am lecturing you about your plate. 

I repeat if it sounds good it is good.

JR

PS: I need to dig through my father's old notebooks, I seem to recall some architectural drawings of an old purpose-built from scratch studio for sound recording (probably in the 30's maybe for film). I don't recall there being a chamber, but I just glanced at it years ago. I remember more about the wall and floor details (for sound isolation). 
 
Wanted to add to this thread with some findings,

After searching around, seeing this post, http://www.tangible-technology.com/EMT/reverb/plate.html
…and bringing the tuning down a nudge on all 8 ecoplate nuts, the sound is now approaching pretty freaking glorious & a great improvement!

Point being, although I've heard the 140 is often tuned up till one breaks a clip & then brought back a notch…
my Ecoplate very significantly benefited from bringing the tuning down a bit further than one might be inclined or think reasonable. The different metals in each must be relative to this equation I'd bet.

The Ecoplate can seemingly sound a bit trashier than than a 140.  However, been finding that if I back off the input to plate and use a bit more of the returns, the results are much richer with less of that trash. 
Of course the gain staging / dance with noise ensues but here I might be fortunate to have had the amp modded a bit to bring any potential noise down a bit.

It's funny but the reg-glue of the voice coil seems to also been an improvement But,  that improvement was not as clear a few hours after doing so as it seemingly is a week or so later. Or, maybe the tuning is even more giant of an ultimate significance than imagined.
 
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