Soldering on pcb... both sides?
- Thread starter Daniel S
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ruffrecords
Well-known member
If it is a through hole [plated PCB, which I suspect it is, then the anser is no you only need to solder the underside.
Cheers
Ian
Cheers
Ian
Look inside the hole.
Is it raw PCB stuff? Or has the inside been plated with metal?
Me, I might solder both sides just in case. The through-hole plating has become very reliable but it is still possible to have a hairline crack.
Is it raw PCB stuff? Or has the inside been plated with metal?
Me, I might solder both sides just in case. The through-hole plating has become very reliable but it is still possible to have a hairline crack.
I too solder both sides. Often not needed though cos usually enough solder flows through the hole and makes the connection on the underside by itself. At least check the underside and if there's no solder at all (didn#t flow through), better add it.
midwayfair
Well-known member
PRR said:
Ditto. The extra soldering time pales in comparison to the time you could spent troubleshooting.
I always solder both sides, especially on gear that has had work done to it.
If you heat up some of them enough, with a desoldering bulb you can take out the metal in the through hole. If that happened and both sides don't make contact, you got a problem that's not going to be fun to find.
It's worth it to be sure.
If you heat up some of them enough, with a desoldering bulb you can take out the metal in the through hole. If that happened and both sides don't make contact, you got a problem that's not going to be fun to find.
It's worth it to be sure.
Soldering on both sides seems a little extreme if the board is SUPPOSED to have plated-through holes. Use a DMM set on the low resistance/beep-on-short-circuit mode, and put the leads on opposite pads of each hole to check for conductivity. I'd think you could check the whole board that way a lot faster than soldering both sides, and you'd know of any problems.
So I looked, and presuming this is the thing, the board has silk-screened component side, so it's surely plated through. If you're repairing (as some posts seem to imply) rather than building new (as I presumed in the previous paragraph), that's a different matter (and not nearly as many places to solder on both sides).
http://www.audiomaintenance.com/acatalog/aml-17-020_extended_info.html
So I looked, and presuming this is the thing, the board has silk-screened component side, so it's surely plated through. If you're repairing (as some posts seem to imply) rather than building new (as I presumed in the previous paragraph), that's a different matter (and not nearly as many places to solder on both sides).
http://www.audiomaintenance.com/acatalog/aml-17-020_extended_info.html
Monte McGuire
Well-known member
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- Jul 26, 2013
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While it sounds like it will make things more reliable, 'cooking' the component twice makes things generally worse. A proper plated through hole of the right size for the specific component lead, soldered with proper solder, proper iron temperature and clean components absolutely does not require this at all.
When you have a board that has been torn up by a sloppy tech, or was never very good to start with, then these rules can be ignored!! :-O
When you have a board that has been torn up by a sloppy tech, or was never very good to start with, then these rules can be ignored!! :-O
