Soldering Temperature
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I have my Ersa iron set for 295C, for what it's worth.
Of course, it also depends on what size/shape of tip, and how chunky of a solder joint you have to deal with, but that sort of temperature seems to be good enough for most general work (through-hole and SMD). Rarely have i needed to bump it up for bigger stuff, but i rarely have such bigger stuff to solder / desolder.
Of course, it also depends on what size/shape of tip, and how chunky of a solder joint you have to deal with, but that sort of temperature seems to be good enough for most general work (through-hole and SMD). Rarely have i needed to bump it up for bigger stuff, but i rarely have such bigger stuff to solder / desolder.
hageir
Well-known member
Depends on your workflow; Speed/Heat Ratio,
if you're really quick you can have a higher temperature.
But it also depends on the board in question; those "glow-in-the-dark-ish" almost-white 70s boards from America are really fragile,
I'm fixing a CBS 9101 Compandor and almost EVERY desoldering manouver lifts a trace. To the point where I just cut the faulty components off to save me the hassle LOL
if you're really quick you can have a higher temperature.
But it also depends on the board in question; those "glow-in-the-dark-ish" almost-white 70s boards from America are really fragile,
I'm fixing a CBS 9101 Compandor and almost EVERY desoldering manouver lifts a trace. To the point where I just cut the faulty components off to save me the hassle LOL
RuudNL
Well-known member
My Ersa is always on 350ºC. (Some like it hot! 
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Pace MBT station here, generally right at 325ºC, small chisel tip, 63/37 solder. Desolder iron starts at 350ºC and up, depending on tip.
295!? Well I was happy at 400 until I had a few mistakes, lifting some pads from the PCB. As long as one's quick, uses a nice tip etc it's very fast and efficient. Least posttible heat time on the component. So I'm now usually at about 350 for smaller pcb parts, up to about 400'ish for bigger parts. Okay, we are all talking about what the station indicates I presume, and not actual temp measurements, so realistic temp might differ. But I have a hard time imagining my station doing anyone any favors at 295C :S
Well, when i still had my chinese knockoff / clone of a Hakko 936, i had the dial set to 350 or so myself. But since i got the Ersa, i was curious if i could use lower temperatures precisely to avoid risking damage.
I was pleasantly surprised to discover the thing worked like a hot damn (no pun intended), even at sub-300C, so even better than the "936", so i stuck with it. YMMV...
amplexus
Well-known member
I work at 400C soldering and 425C on desoldering station. I like hot and fast. It makes pcb assembly real quick, esp double sided boards, and has plenty of heat to get in and out of turrets and eyelets fast. I switch tips for each application so the heat goes/stays where i need it for a given task. Tip size plus temp is a big factor obvs.
Some of it depends on how good your irons thermal capacity and recovery is as well… you might have to “make up” for a lower end iron in some cases by goosing the heat.
Some of it depends on how good your irons thermal capacity and recovery is as well… you might have to “make up” for a lower end iron in some cases by goosing the heat.
living sounds
Well-known member
It depends on your soldering station.
I've got a JBC station that always keeps the tip at the set temperature by massively increasing the heating at the blink of an eye if necessary. So I could probably even reduce the set temperature, but I still work at a little over 300°C most of the time.
I've got a JBC station that always keeps the tip at the set temperature by massively increasing the heating at the blink of an eye if necessary. So I could probably even reduce the set temperature, but I still work at a little over 300°C most of the time.
I might need to turn mine down to 350C
As some have said it depends on what you are working with. Lately I have been soldering loose wire connections and not PCBs. Higher temps will burn tips faster and lift traces easier.
JR
As some have said it depends on what you are working with. Lately I have been soldering loose wire connections and not PCBs. Higher temps will burn tips faster and lift traces easier.
JR
If you want to solder at a higher temp, when you order PCBs, ask for TG 170 instead of the standard TG135. This is the temp in C that if you go above it, the board might de-laminate. TG135 is typically for lead solder and TG170 is for lead-free. Some board houses also offer TG180. You can also order 1oz, 2oz or 3oz copper. I use PCBWIN.COM, they have great quality and are fast (much better than PCBWAY) and don't charge extra for TG170 or 2oz thick copper.
Some of the DIY shops supply TG135, so be careful with high temp irons.
Some of the DIY shops supply TG135, so be careful with high temp irons.
pucho812
Well-known member
I do everything in Fahrenheit. typically I am at 650F which is about 343C, at times I have gone 700F but I average 600-650 usually.
I'm in Fahrenheit land as well, and I work about 99% of the time around 640.
For turret or tag strip based tube gear the Weller 100w soldering gun is my bestie , to some degree you can regulate temp by adjusting the gauge of the copper wire you use for the tip but also the longer you hold down the trigger the more heat , you kinda get to know your iron after a while . You know the old saying theres more heat in a cupfull of luke warm water than a teaspoon of boiling , suiting the mass of the tip to the job at hand helps prevent delivering way to much heat vs overly long dwell times, practice makes perfect (joints)
Ricardus
WILL SOLDER FOR FOOD
I work at about 700 F and I've only burned holes in a few boards.
