SSL Clone-Bypass Switch

[Siegfried Meier]

Just finished 2 of these and neither one works. The meters fire up as they should, but they don't pass audio. I'm using a regular 4x2 rotary for the bypass switch and I'm afraid I've perhaps wired this incorrectly. Would that cause no audio to pass the unit?? Anyone know how to properly wire it up? I'm just not getting the diagrams. Thanks so much.

Best regards,
Siegfried Meier

 

[daArry]

Hey,

Look at the PDF of the boards - Jakob has marked the rotary switch poles with letters/numbers so A = pole 1, B = pole 2, C = pole 3 etc. the position numbers correspond to the poles, ie, A1 = pos1/pole1, A2 = pos2/pole1...should be pretty straightforward. If your using those lorlin/alpha types the numbers/letters are marked on the back for reference...

Cheers!

 

[Siegfried Meier]

Yeah, I've done that. There are letters, from A-D, but the numbers go from 1-12, they don't say A1, A2 etc., like they do in the PDF. I counted the poles, and guessed based on their positions in the PDF. And still, both units exhibit the exact same behaviour. Meters fire up and no audio passes. Weird, you'd think one would at least work, or they'd have different problems. No idea what could be wrong then.

My question again, if the bypass switch is incorrectly wired, will it not allow audio to pass???? Thanks.

Siegfried

 

[gyraf]

Siegfried,

Look at the schematic:

The bypass switch serves two functions. First of all, it breaks the signal path in the sidechain - so no signal is transferred from the rectifier circuit to the timing circuit. Second, it breaks connection to the makeup gain pot in order to disable makeup when bypassed.

From this follows, that audio should pass almost no matter how much you mess up the bypass wireing - it's only a sidechain thing.

The switch numbering (A1..B2) is first click on the "A" part .. second click on the "B" part. Use an ohmmeter if you're not sure what's what.

Jakob E.