Guys, thank you for all the insights, they are really helpful.
I got to a point where the board is no longer oscillating.
I can't quite explain why but I removed tested and soldered back all transistors and diodes and may have fixed a broken solder joint as consequence.
Then the aluminum block where the transistors are attached accidentally touched the chassis of the transport (a mesh shelf with rounded holes) and I got a spark, which I found interesting because I thought the whole chassis was grounded...and I thought the transistors collectors were insulated from that plate, but allowing that accident to happen is plain stupidity.
The fact is that the board is no longer supplying the voltages and there is a clicking noise coming from T2 which I believe to be just a symptom, not the cause.
The board 3A fuse is intact, I decided to take a walk and go back to it perhaps tomorrow.
I replaced all electrolytic caps, and three film caps. But, addressing your point I was afraid to up the voltage, as I use to do in my other audio gear, because this seems quite finicky and all this chatter about ESR made me second guess if some of my regular approaches would work for this equipment. I replaced C6 with a Nichicon that is currently on the board, but to rule out the ESR thing I ordered a Wurth with 260mOhms ESR just in case.
I got to a point where the board is no longer oscillating.
I can't quite explain why but I removed tested and soldered back all transistors and diodes and may have fixed a broken solder joint as consequence.
Then the aluminum block where the transistors are attached accidentally touched the chassis of the transport (a mesh shelf with rounded holes) and I got a spark, which I found interesting because I thought the whole chassis was grounded...and I thought the transistors collectors were insulated from that plate, but allowing that accident to happen is plain stupidity.
The fact is that the board is no longer supplying the voltages and there is a clicking noise coming from T2 which I believe to be just a symptom, not the cause.
The board 3A fuse is intact, I decided to take a walk and go back to it perhaps tomorrow.
I replaced all electrolytic caps, and three film caps. But, addressing your point I was afraid to up the voltage, as I use to do in my other audio gear, because this seems quite finicky and all this chatter about ESR made me second guess if some of my regular approaches would work for this equipment. I replaced C6 with a Nichicon that is currently on the board, but to rule out the ESR thing I ordered a Wurth with 260mOhms ESR just in case.