BramP84
Member
Hi everyone, so my bandmate is a bassplayer (he can't help it) and asked me to check his preamp out because it didn't sound (and work) as good as it used to. I have some experience building guitar pedals, tube amplifiers and recently finished an LA2A and Pultec build, so I know how to solder and troubleshoot a bit, but the issue I encounter with this preamp leaves me a bit puzzled:
I put in some new tubes and biased the thing properly, clean tones sound great, but when using the drive knob, it does a whole bunch of nothing for about 85% of the taper and then the last 15% has all the distortion you would ever want and more.
Luckily there's a schematic floating around so I've been checking all the components but I'm not sure what gives, my suspicion originally was with that vactrol VTL5C1 in the drive circuit, but it doesn't seem to be broken (but perhaps out of spec?)
I unsoldered the photoresistor side of the vactrol and replaced it with a 100K pot , this gives a perfectly useable taper for the drive, 150K would probably be a bit better even. So can we conclude from this that it's the vactrol that's causing the issue, or might it be another component that hampers it's performance?
With the LDR side still unsoldered, I measured the LED side which has about 7.4VDC 'before' the LED and 9VDC 'after' the LED with Drive completely off (hope this makes some sense).With Drive fully open this goes to 4.7mVDC and 1.3VDC respectively. Pin 1 of the opamp driving the LED goes from 9VDC to 1.3VDC. Are these conditions that should make the vactrol behave normally?
Current to the LED goes from 22.5mA when drive is off to 14.5uA (microAmps) when fully open. Resistance on the (unsoldered) LDR side goes from 127.5ohms with drive off to about 20M ohms when turned open but then it drops gradually to about 5M ohms (this might be normal?)
Hope you can help me out! Apologies if the above information is totally irrelevant
Bram
I put in some new tubes and biased the thing properly, clean tones sound great, but when using the drive knob, it does a whole bunch of nothing for about 85% of the taper and then the last 15% has all the distortion you would ever want and more.
Luckily there's a schematic floating around so I've been checking all the components but I'm not sure what gives, my suspicion originally was with that vactrol VTL5C1 in the drive circuit, but it doesn't seem to be broken (but perhaps out of spec?)
I unsoldered the photoresistor side of the vactrol and replaced it with a 100K pot , this gives a perfectly useable taper for the drive, 150K would probably be a bit better even. So can we conclude from this that it's the vactrol that's causing the issue, or might it be another component that hampers it's performance?
With the LDR side still unsoldered, I measured the LED side which has about 7.4VDC 'before' the LED and 9VDC 'after' the LED with Drive completely off (hope this makes some sense).With Drive fully open this goes to 4.7mVDC and 1.3VDC respectively. Pin 1 of the opamp driving the LED goes from 9VDC to 1.3VDC. Are these conditions that should make the vactrol behave normally?
Current to the LED goes from 22.5mA when drive is off to 14.5uA (microAmps) when fully open. Resistance on the (unsoldered) LDR side goes from 127.5ohms with drive off to about 20M ohms when turned open but then it drops gradually to about 5M ohms (this might be normal?)
Hope you can help me out! Apologies if the above information is totally irrelevant
Bram