> > PRR:
> > Dunno why 80 years later we are having trouble with alky fuels, why my new snoblower mandates less than 15% alky.
Your snowblower likely doesn't have a computer controlled throttle body and oxygen sensor to compensate for the difference in the stoichiometric ratios between gasoline and gasahol. Even if it did, it would have to be programmed to handle "flex-fuel" ratios to deal with more than 10-15% alcohol. Alcohol burns a lot leaner, and is the bane of us classic car guys that have carburetors with no wires in or out. We really hate burnt valves and seats, that aren't even properly lubricated by lead anymore. Our poor valves, under attack from above and below, by many angles of modern politics.
> JR:
> I'm fine with ethanol as an oxygenate-octane extender (better than MTBE), but not 10-15% worth. My lawn mower and chain saw motors have plenty of alcohol damage.
I'm not fine with it, but MTBE was a disaster. I miss tetraethyl lead (*1) , and I miss the original red-lead paint from Rustoleum, the newer "Ruddy Brown" rusty metal primer just ain't the same.
The first thing to get damaged on small engines from alcohol, is the original vinyl(?) fuel lines, they just break down and crumble. Any decent lawnmower shop has spools of some greenish tinted hose in all sizes, I forget the tradename, that supposedly stands up to alcohol. Even Home Depot/Loews have it in way-too-expensive multisize kits, ya gotta buy the whole kit to get the one size you need. I have replaced most small engine fuel lines here, and so far, so good. Also, that primer bulb will break down, there are replacements rated(?) for gasafrigginhol. It is still a good idea to run them dry before you put them up.
The second thing is that straight gasoline is not hydroscopic at all. Mix alcohol in, and the blend is very hydroscopic, and the moisture content will corrode the hell out of aluminum carburetors and steel fittings,, and any urethane diaphragms, gaskets, whatever, will also swell up and break down.
There are some workarounds.
1) some areas still have alcohol-free fuel stations. Patronize them for your small engine needs. And your big engine needs.
2) Visit your local small airport with a 5-gallon can and a credit card, fill up with "LL-100". That's 100 octane low-lead gasoline, even your 2-sroke weed wacker will smile at you for it. Illegal to use on the highway as no road taxes are paid, and it would quickly foul any catatonic perverter on a car made from 1975 on up.
3) If 1 and 2 aren't viable, you can easily remove the alcohol from "gasahol". 3 gallons of 10% gasahol in a 5-gallon can, add a gallon of clean water. Shake and let settle a few times. Alcohol will mix with gas, but it much prefers water, and will mix into it, leaving behind straight gasoline on top Decant unadulterated gasoline off of the top. (Ironic, government paying subsidies with our tax dollars to put the alcohol in, and then we have to jump through hoops to take it back out, and figure out how to dispose of it, likely creating an environmental hazard in the process.)
#3 leaves two problems:
A) The gasoline is now at a lower octane than the mix was, either start with a higher grade, or add a bit of Toluene, it is 114 octane. Toluene is a great octane booster, and relatively cheap from industrial paint stores by the 5-gallon pail. And a good all-around solvent.
B) You are stuck with a water/ethanol mix that smells like gasoline with unknown additives in it, disposal problem, or maybe boil off the ethanol and reuse the water. But eventually, you end up with some really nasty haz-mat water.
Note
*1) everybody needs their minimum adult daily requirement of lead and other heavy metals. Without them, how else would you have the presence of mind to know who is really out to get you?
Gene