Which cable to use to for a DIY console?

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Polykobol

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2008
Messages
23
Hello,
I am building a kind of custom console based around old API cards and modules.
I would like to know what is the cable to use to wire of of these.
I live in Europa, Austria/Germany.
C.U.
Francois

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Looks like a nice project! For balanced signals i often use single strands salvaged from multi-wire studio cables. They have 2 conductors and they are shielded. Keeps wiring nice and tidy too. Tie the shield to ground at one end and leave the other end floating.

Maybe someone knows of an even better solution, but it has worked we'll for me so far.
 
Hi Lauritz,
Thank you for your answer. Any Idea of the section/diameter, technology, etc...
I am interested into making the summing busses with these summing preamps:
IMG_2882.JPG
 
I have found this cable which has a film for the shielding... Interest, it is slim... 3,7mm. But I don't know if that's an issue concerning the shielding....
https://www.sommercable.com/en-gb/P...-30-mm-black/200-0401#neonCfg=pulength::pu100

If it is an issue, I should use this one which is 6,5mm diameter... :-( Inside the rack, it will be huge...
https://www.thomann.de/de/cordial_c...z3d9-DILymwG2zOVfPsS3whgZ-D8fmKRoCKe8QAvD_BwE

It's called "console wire" for a reason. Only for use inside gear and in racks/patchbays. It is also what is inside multichannel cable (i.e. snakes).

That one has a drain wire for the shield so you're good.
 
I use Sommer -sicada- (2.6mm) or -isopod- (3.3mm) for all my audio internal wiring in the studio (console and rack gear)
For supply or any basic control/signalling, any standard coper wire is fine (with proper diameter according to current involved, or with some over rating to minimise Ω/m and voltage drop in long distance scenario (which can happen in console)
 
I've also used the W2944, I like the "drain" wire (in addition to stranded shield) which is nice to use if crimping the ends for use with small footprint contacts, as it has the same diameter as the signal wires so you don't need to modify the stranded shield (which ends up being quite thick so you'd have to trim some of it to fit in the crimp pins).

Comes in a variety of colors, and is very thin. (mind you, I haven't tried the others people recommend here)
 
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