dbx 160vu clone

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DY,

Have a look here:
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=1996.msg24614#msg24614

This has to be the definitive meter post here at prod-pro. (Thanks Mark!)

Mike
 
damnyankee said:
Walrus said:
Would it be possible to use something like the top meter here...http://www.esr.co.uk/electronics/test-panel.htm
and then use the mechanical zero adjust to offset to 12.30?
the dbx meter is 1.2mA to 0.6mA; the scale on that meter goes -50 to 50.  I suspect that in its stock form, you probably wouldn't hardly see the needle move on the meter.
So a +/-50uA meter will hardly move with 600uA fed into it?? :eek: ::)
 
damnyankee said:
2. Bridge rectifiers are used in AC applications and true VU meters, correct? 

3. Would it be safe to say DC voltage meters do not have these rectifiers? 

4. As the dbx meter is a DC amperage meter, we would measure the mA rating along the meter points, correct?

Heya!

1) Bridge rectifiers are usually used to convert AC to DC (with a few other components), think about most any linear power supply... These little analogue meters read a DC control voltage, which is (in the case of audio) usually a rectified and smoothed AC signal, but may also be a VCA control signal or similar. VU meters have a rectifier built in so that you can strap them directly across an output with no extra components. The meter still, however reads a DC signal coming out of the rectifier.

2)So, no a DC meter does not have a built in rectifier, but can have one added externally, as in the JLM VU meter kit, where the rectifer and smoothing is outwith the meter.

3) Yes. You could also change the meter output circuitry to match whatever meter/ballistics you so desire, with a bit of care...

A +/-50uA meter with 600uA through it will be pegged... That +/-50uA is describing how much current can run through the meter before it hits the end stop(s)...

Hope Im being clear/helpful... Quite tired...

Mo
 
damnyankee said:
[quote author=David Kulka]

Your table of currents and meter readings is correct, but practice repeating these words 100 times "Audio is AC. VU meters are AC. dbx meters are DC."

Forget this "audio output amperage" stuff. dbx used a DC meter, driven by a 3 mode metering circuit. In Gain Change mode it basically displays the DC control voltage going to the VCA. In Input mode you are seeing the DC output of the RMS Detector. Output mode (as I recall) is a sum of the RMS Detector DC and the VCA control voltage (input level plus VCA level equals output level).

There is never AC or audio signal connected to this meter. It only measures, depending on mode, different DC voltages within the side chain circuit.

Ok, I wrote it on the board Bart Simpson-style 100 times.  ;D

Depressing one of the buttons on the 3 button gang allows us to select DC voltage going to the VCA, DC voltage out of the RMS, or sum of the voltages of the VCA & RMS - which is being read as "decibels" on the dbx DC meter

So here's a few stupid questions..

1. Why is current (mA) being measured at various points along the meter scale instead of voltage?  I know when I troubleshoot pedals, I look for voltages...

2. Bridge rectifiers are used in AC applications and true VU meters, correct? 

3. Would it be safe to say DC voltage meters do not have these rectifiers? 

4. As the dbx meter is a DC amperage meter, we would measure the mA rating along the meter points, correct?

Thank you again!

DY


[/quote]

These current / voltage questions are very good, and the topic is an important one that many experienced techs (especially self taught ones, like me!) tend to overlook. For anyone who's really interested, it might be worth grabbing some basic electronics book and reviewing ohms law. I don't want to go way off topic, but it helps to understand that as a general rule electronic circuits are based on current, not voltage. Without current flow there is no circuit, and nothing can happen. Consider a flashlight that is switched off. There is voltage potential at the battery but the open switch prevents any current from flowing, and nothing happens. When the switch is turned on, current begins to flow and the circuit operates.

So circuit operations depend on current, not voltage. However, for most troubleshooting and for much design work, thinking in terms of current is a pain. Compared to voltage, current is hard to measure and hard to visualize. (Ever try to "look at" current with a scope? You can, but it's a big production.) Fortunately, in most cases, voltage measurements tell us what we need to know about power supply and audio circuits. Most audio circuits are capacitively coupled between stages so even though it's current that's doing the work, we can easily "peek" at the AC and DC voltages in different places to know what's going on and locate faults.

Direct coupled circuits are harder to troubleshoot and understand, especially when multiple feedback loops are involved. With amplifier and summing amp circuits "virtual ground" inputs may be involved. These are current inputs, and there is no voltage to measure. Many dbx products use direct coupled, current based designs. (If this 160 project goes forward, I suspect that some people reading this thread may find themselves losing hair while de-bugging the VCA and sidechain circuits. At many of those circuit points, voltage readings tell you little, and the currents can't easily be measured. It can be a challenge!)

Back to the meters, remember that ALL mechanical meters measure only current, not voltage. Meters are "adapted" to measure voltage by adding a series resistor. Current meters are almost always "shunted" with a parallel resistor, which reduces the meter's sensitivity and calibrates the meter's printed scale to the circuit. A panel mount volt meter will always have a series resistor inside it. The dbx 160 has an external network of several resistors and a trimpot in series with the meter.

To answer your other questions:

2. Bridge rectifiers are used in AC applications and true VU meters, correct? YES. I "believe" they usually use copper oxide rectifiers, which have low forward bias.

3. Would it be safe to say DC voltage meters do not have these rectifiers?  YES.

4. As the dbx meter is a DC amperage meter, we would measure the mA rating along the meter points, correct? If you have a meter on the bench and want to know it current rating (usually referred to as "full scale current" you connect it to a low voltage DC source in series with a protection resistor and a pot. You carefully increase the DC voltage and/or decrease the pot resistance until the meter reads full scale. You can then measure the full scale current by placing a DVM or VOM, in current mode, in series with the meter under test. (You could also calculate it by adding the values of the pot, the protection resistor, and the meter coil, and dividing the DC source voltage by the total resistance. But it's easier and more accurate just to measure it.) If you have a complete 160 in front of you you could simply connect an external VOM or DVM in series with one of the wires to the Beede meter, and directly measure the actual current that is driving the meter.

Hope that helps!
 
Great!
Great posts and links. So as far as I understand it...We can find ourselves a cheap or expensive DC meter and hook it up to the stock circuit, and using the 50k parallel resistor and maybe switching out a series resistor or 2 we can probably get a wide range of meters to work. but its good to know, when the circuits made and the DC meter doesn't work I have some info to reference and read again. Also I would like to point out, even if a meter is "VU" with a bridge rectifier inside, it can still be used as a DC meter - the diodes are basically "invisible".





 
I've sent Abe several more dbx 160 docs to host and link, that I think will be helpful to those in this project. They are:

1. Original dbx 160 cut sheet with specs, etc. (front and back)
2. dbx 200 VCA schematic (poor resolution I'm afraid)
3. Five Pages of hand drawn simplified schematics for the dbx 160

The simplified schematics contain a ton of information. I didn't even know I had them until I dug through my 160 files this morning. If someone really wants to understand what makes a 160 tick, they can learn a lot from studying that document.
 
Fantastic!
Very interesting info. For me my the lucky number came up with :

www.acsoundstudio.com/DIY/160vu/dbx 160 block diagrams.pdf

it has the power supply with the 723 pins clearly labeled so I'll be able to double check the schemo, as with any prior versions of the schematic are a little fuzzy on the 723 pin outs.
also great information on the units:

www.acsoundstudio.com/DIY/160vu/dbx 160 cut sheet 1_4.pdf
www.acsoundstudio.com/DIY/160vu/dbx 160 cut sheet 2_3.pdf
www.acsoundstudio.com/DIY/160vu/dbx 200 VCA.pdf

On behalf of all of us here, Thank you David for this information.

 
David Kulka said:
These current / voltage questions are very good...

Hope that helps!

Thank you, David - and the other posters - I'm really learning alot AND it's alot of fun!  

And thank you for posting the block diagrams and other info.  I hope you get something out of this project as well!

DY
 
David Kulka said:
The simplified schematics contain a ton of information. I didn't even know I had them until I dug through my 160 files this morning. If someone really wants to understand what makes a 160 tick, they can learn a lot from studying that document.

thanks for sharing these docs david! very informative stuff.

abe: i think the link to "dbx 200 VCA.pdf" in your post is missing the "/160vu"? should be: http://www.acsoundstudio.com/DIY/160vu/dbx 200 VCA.pdf. thanks for putting these files up :)

the next trick after we get this thing working is to squeeze it into a 500 series module  ;D
 
damnyankee said:
arska said:
It´s dc-current meter not voltage meter, take any 100uA or 1mA meter and make new dB scale . redesign mea amps with bias setup to give meter offset as needed.
Easy task .... no problem........

Awesome!  It's unanimous - you got the job! *haha*  ;D

Haa..... ASAP!
 
arska said:
damnyankee said:
arska said:
It´s dc-current meter not voltage meter, take any 100uA or 1mA meter and make new dB scale . redesign mea amps with bias setup to give meter offset as needed.
Easy task .... no problem........

Awesome!  It's unanimous - you got the job! *haha*  ;D

Haa..... ASAP!
EXCELLENT!  Quick question: will you need to augment the pcb or would the change occur in the meter (or a combination of both)?  These meters are more complicated than they look!
 
haima said:
...the next trick after we get this thing working is to squeeze it into a 500 series module  ;D
Actually, I was thinking we could clone the original Valley People Dyna-Mite; Like that dbx 160VU, that's another incredible smash box which looks easy to build...
 
damnyankee said:
arska said:
damnyankee said:
arska said:
It´s dc-current meter not voltage meter, take any 100uA or 1mA meter and make new dB scale . redesign mea amps with bias setup to give meter offset as needed.
Easy task .... no problem........

Awesome!  It's unanimous - you got the job! *haha*  ;D

Haa..... ASAP!
EXCELLENT!  Quick question: will you need to augment the pcb or would the change occur in the meter (or a combination of both)?  These meters are more complicated than they look!

If it´s possible to do without changes on  pcb, I hope so....
First I will simulate the original measure amp and after that we will see.... 
 
Ok...

So AC - should we hold up manufacturing the prototype boards until arska determines if any board changes need to be made???
 
haima said:
abe: i think the link to "dbx 200 VCA.pdf" in your post is missing the "/160vu"? should be: http://www.acsoundstudio.com/DIY/160vu/dbx 200 VCA.pdf. thanks for putting these files up :)

Fixed, Thanks!  ;D

damnyankee said:
So AC - should we hold up manufacturing the prototype boards until arska determines if any board changes need to be made???
Yes I think its worth waiting, I think it *should* just be a matter of changing resistor values(if anything). maybe I should say  I *hope*. But i almost just want to go ahead with the prototype run just so we all have a circuit we can run tests on. But Arska hasn't failed us yet, and if he wants to hook up a test circuit, that would be way awesome.
 
It's your call, but my opinion is let's get the pcb taken care of meter wise.  Also, what about the transformer...are those still made?  Do we need to find a replacement for that?

The way I see it: I anticipate we're going to run into a few headaches matching transistors (hfe & Vbe) on the VCA footprint, so I don't want another headache with re-engineering the board to retrofit some meters.  I'm in favor of waiting for arska to give us the skinny on the meters, make any changes (if any), and go from there. 

I think if this is done right, there's going to be ALOT of people in line to build this clone. 

I'm hoping Mike/Hairball Audio is looking at those gang switches.  I'm definitely in for 4 of these...MAYBE 6.

We're getting very, very close and I want to thank everyone again for donating their effort and expertise!

DY
 
damnyankee said:
I'm hoping Mike/Hairball Audio is looking at those gang switches.  I'm definitely in for 4 of these...MAYBE 6.

Did you guys confirm the dimensions?  Are they the same as the 1176 (15x7 mm)?

Thanks,

Mike
 
hi Dy,
As far as the transformer. Any dual 24v AC transformer will work. Put another way a 48v AC center tapped transformer. Heck you could probably get away with a dual 15v AC, 30v AC center tapped. There are lots of options. Basically the thing about power transformers they don't have to be exactly perfect. As long as you know what your doing. Also sometimes a 15v AC dual will spit out up to 20v AC. And these things don't have to be big at all. The whole board is going to be pulling a lot less than an AMP. its +/-15 DC volt rails and they have +/-24v DC spec'd as a pull off to boost the power of the output transistors, I don't for see a huge deal if your spitting 18-24v DC at them...
if anyone thinks different I would be interested to know
Thanks
AC
 
Echo North said:
Did you guys confirm the dimensions?  Are they the same as the 1176 (15x7 mm)?

Thanks,

Mike

Hi Mike,
As it stands now, the switch circuits are going off the board with molex connectors. The original Idea being that people can wire up any switch type they wanted (rotary, gang). But it almost makes sense to have the molex connector for a Rotary switch and then maybe have the footprint for the gang switches on the board. You probably know more about the gang switches than me. In my mind it would make sense to use the same type and style as the 1176 but for the dbx its only a 3 gang switch...do you have any possible ideas?
Thanks
AC
 
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