...probably better to use a resistor in series, and go with the original 12V..
Jakob E.
Jakob E.
GSSL HELP THREAD!!!
- Thread starter hairyandy
- Start date
Help Support GroupDIY Audio Forum:
darkcharly
Active member
gyraf said:
Thank you! I'll do that.
Greetings.
I recently scored a bunch of free toroid assemblys (toroid trafo with mounting bracket and IEC socket with power switch and fuse socket). They're all 230V in and 28V-0V-28V 2.3A out.
A LM7815/LM7915 combo Will handle up to +/- 35V. Though it's probably overkill, could i (safely) use one of these toroids to power two GSSL's in one 2U case?
A LM7815/LM7915 combo Will handle up to +/- 35V. Though it's probably overkill, could i (safely) use one of these toroids to power two GSSL's in one 2U case?
Harpo
Well-known member
No. AC voltage isn't = DC voltage. See http://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=47.msg714443#msg714443grrrunge said:
Harpo
Well-known member
At least. Could be a lot higher. 35V caps rating wouldn't be sufficient as well when using different type/circuit of voltage regulators that could take this input voltage and the regulators I/O voltage differential times load current will generate lots of heat. Better use your transformers for a different project or as a doorstop instead.
...28-0-28 would make a good power source for a 1176...
Jakob E.
Jakob E.
Che_Guitarra
Well-known member
Hi guys. I'm in the process of drilling the faceplate for my PCB Grinder GSSL project, and want to keep it all as aesthetically pleasing as possible. It's going to have a turbo and sidechain, with the turbo constantly on (& no need for a switch).
Anyway, space is tight, i've already fitted the meter and on/off switch, and i'm hoping to use a rocker switch for the bypass. Unfortunately it's late, i'm having a brain fade looking at the schematic, and i'm not good with the acronyms used for switch naming :-[ Am I chasing a DPDT or 3PDT switch for bypass... or something esle?
I've tried searching through the thread, but at 320 pages long it's a behemoth to get through :-X
Anyway, space is tight, i've already fitted the meter and on/off switch, and i'm hoping to use a rocker switch for the bypass. Unfortunately it's late, i'm having a brain fade looking at the schematic, and i'm not good with the acronyms used for switch naming :-[ Am I chasing a DPDT or 3PDT switch for bypass... or something esle?
I've tried searching through the thread, but at 320 pages long it's a behemoth to get through :-X
Harpo
Well-known member
DPDT (without illuminated status display). Using relais for more needed switch poles will be easier and cheaper to source than a >2pole rocker switch. YMMV.Che_Guitarra said:
hi Guys,
I finished my New GSSL and imm. after powering up, the outer 10Ohm burned, I changed it and again...
I got no shorts there and any part is soldered correct.
Can some one tell me how much Watt both have to have?
1 got Metall 1%, 0.6W, 2x15VA Torroid
thx
I finished my New GSSL and imm. after powering up, the outer 10Ohm burned, I changed it and again...
I got no shorts there and any part is soldered correct.
Can some one tell me how much Watt both have to have?
1 got Metall 1%, 0.6W, 2x15VA Torroid
thx
Solved it, got a Shorty, :
Working right now.
Question;
I want to build a Turbo into for getting better Stereo-Compression..
Do I also have to add a second Sidechainboard to compress in Stereo?
at the SC Board, Left and Right are joint together right after the In!!!
Working right now.
Question;
I want to build a Turbo into for getting better Stereo-Compression..
Do I also have to add a second Sidechainboard to compress in Stereo?
at the SC Board, Left and Right are joint together right after the In!!!
Greg S. said:
I would recommend getting to know the unit as it is, and then later decide if you really need changes. "Better" stereo compression does not make sense - it's all a matter of taste and real-life use.
I know that all the add-ons are easy to consider must-haves - but the basic unit actually goes a long way.
Jakob E.
hello!! been a while! i hope all is well
just placing the parts on rev 11 is there any documentation for this revision? i got the rev 9 documents and they are quite outdated!! been trying to find for a while but not much luck!!
thanks a lot !
EDIT: Found em https://pcbgrinder.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_69&product_id=51
thanks a lot !
EDIT: Found em
https://pcbgrinder.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_69&product_id=51hello! other thing i have in mind..
are the 10 and 22 ohm safe under 1/4w or should i go for 1/2?
in this design does the CRC becomes obsolete then?!
and on a separate note..
i am using serpent audio`s VCA`s for this builds. should i adapt them same as i did with igor`s?
with igor`s VCA`s, i had 2.5k instead of 15k just under the "output" letters on the board also 220pf instead of the 100pf there.
i also used 182k instead of the 1M (% on new board) and a jumper wire instead of the 27k* between regulators and vca`s
i wonder if this is ok with the new VCA boards or i got to do something different?
all the best!
are the 10 and 22 ohm safe under 1/4w or should i go for 1/2?
in this design does the CRC becomes obsolete then?!
and on a separate note..
i am using serpent audio`s VCA`s for this builds. should i adapt them same as i did with igor`s?
with igor`s VCA`s, i had 2.5k instead of 15k just under the "output" letters on the board also 220pf instead of the 100pf there.
i also used 182k instead of the 1M (% on new board) and a jumper wire instead of the 27k* between regulators and vca`s
i wonder if this is ok with the new VCA boards or i got to do something different?
all the best!
Harpo
Well-known member
2K5 feedback resistor is correct if 4 VCAs are fitted per module. I'd increase the 220pF across this feedback resistors to 330pF. Jumper instead of the 27K voltage to current converters (these 4*20K in paralleled VCAs are on the module) is correct as well. The 182K (probably 180K for 4*2181As, 56K for 4*2181Bs or 33K for 4*2181Cs) instead of 1M depends on type of THAT2181 used on VCA modules.ptron said:
I have a problem with ssl when joining is quiet and starts blinking LED when the switch does not work release and compression
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qlis66dz7ggg0li/AAAkxMLH0gc-rCbPQF7pqX0ta
https://www.dropbox.com/s/oah0xbkry30gry2/IMG_2143.MOV
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qlis66dz7ggg0li/AAAkxMLH0gc-rCbPQF7pqX0ta
https://www.dropbox.com/s/oah0xbkry30gry2/IMG_2143.MOV
Majestic12
Well-known member
Looks like some problems with the voltage regulators, maybe also a latchup problem with the 7815 regulator.
Which kind of brand do you use for your 7815? TS branded regulators don't seem to work properly, I have switched to Fairchild to solve the problem.
Which kind of brand do you use for your 7815? TS branded regulators don't seem to work properly, I have switched to Fairchild to solve the problem.
