GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[bernbrue]

Depends, what kind of meter you´ve got. Has it got bulbs or LEDs? Maybe wrong polarisation or too high/low voltage.
Bernd

 

[turk sanchez]

bernbrue, thank you again, fine Sir! I really appreciate you helping me.

I got the 8027-b 1ma from Hairball. Pretty positive I don't have the polarization reversed (I did white + and black - and ran the power for the VU from the main PCB) I wired from the "+12 V" pad (white wire) to the positive tab on the VU meter, and from the "0v" tab (black wire) to the negative tab on the VU. I opened up the VU and it has LED's and they don't "look" blown.

Gustav, would it help if I delete some of those pics I posted (except the one showing the backwards IC) at some point? So I don't "clog" the thread? Thanks again for your help, Sir.

 

[bernbrue]

Light: 2 white LEDs 5.6-7.6V (from hairballs homepage)

12V seems bit too much. 
Bernd

 

[turk sanchez]

...I saw that at hairball, but I thought it could handle the sum of both of those values (13.2v)...that is what I get for making assumptions. I had also seen others use this VU for this project. How are they doing it? Adding a resistor like on the 1176 rev A/hairball does?

Thanks so much, bernbrue ~ you're a huge help. I'd be lost w/out this forum and guys like you.

 

[kante1603]

Hi Turk,


Hairball spec the meter lights as follows:Light: 2 white LEDs,5,6-7,6 vdc.
You might have killed them,maybe not.
Lift the two LED supply wires or connections and attach an external psu set to roughly 6vdc.
If they still work then just calculate the necessary preresistor and put it in series to them,done.
You can use 4 x 1,5v batteries for testing in case you don't have an external psu.

Best,

Udo.


Oooopppsssss,double post with Bernd,excuse me.

 

[turk sanchez]

thanks for that, kante1603!

Can you tell me what resistor value I would need to get it just under 6vdc? I don't understand electronics ~ I can just solder OK and follow instructions. I am learning as I go...especially from posts like yours and others on here.

I'll just order a couple (one extra) of them and try wiring one in there w/the VU I have now and see if it lights up. If it doesn't, I'll just order another meter from hairball (about the same price as new LED's anyway) and wire that one w/the extra resistor. I have some extra length on the wire/leads, so it'll be easy to just re-strip them/re-wire them and not have to touch the PCB pads.

Here is a pic of "my baby". Just waiting on the new bypass switch.

 

[orangechili]

I have an older rev 7 gssl that seemed to be working fine. It has a super side chain board installed. Now out of nowhere the right side just has a hum and no sound at all. I measured my ac and dc voltages and all seems fine. All 15 and 12 volt regulators are pushing out the correct voltages. I have changed all the opamps to no avail, every opamp. I even put in a fresh 3 vca's all at once to try all options. I'm kinda stuck for where to look next to troubleshoot? Any advice greatly appreciated!

 

[kante1603]

Turk,


if you want to learn it start with the basics.
Use Ohm's law,this is a good example for it.
So we have a supply voltage of 12vdc,and we want to drop it down to say 6vdc,right?
The "left-over voltage" is 6vdc,we want to get rid of it somehow.
So let's get it "burnt" in that before mentioned preresistor into heat.
A white Led runs on roughly 20mAs.We have two in series,the current stays the same.
Ohm's law says R=U/I,so put the values in: 6v / 0,020A = 300 Ohms.
That's it!


The values are not super precise,but give you an idea.
If you want the leds darker increase the resistor value,if wanted brighter decrease it a bit.


There are also a lot of free resistor calculators (for leds) to find on the internet.


All given if a)your leds survived and b)the supply voltage (12vdc) is still there of course.


Do it


Udo.

 

[turk sanchez]

thanks for teaching me ~ I am not sure I get the math (I am not good at math), but I understand the theory of it.

So...just solder a 300ohm, 1/4 watt resistor placed on the + lead of the VU meters "lamp" lugs?

You guys are making my day over here...solving all my problems! I am going to order a few resistors around 300ohms today. Can't wait to hear this GSSL!

I love this place.

 

[bernbrue]

"If it doesn't, I'll just order another meter from hairball"

  You won´t buy a new meter only because of some burnt LEDs, won´t you? Repair it! Thats DIY!! 8)
Bernd

 

[kante1603]

So...just solder a 300ohm, 1/4 watt resistor placed on the + lead of the VU meters "lamp" lugs?

Yep,just solder the resistor to the lug,the other side goes to your on-board +12v via the existing wire.

 

[turk sanchez]

...I see your point of course. That was the first thing I looked at, but the LED's I found cost a lot (as much as the VU). I'll take another look for some LED's and see if I can find some for a better price. The guys at Hairball don't sell the LED's (I asked them  a week ago), but they said to just use "any flat LED".  Anybody have additional specs or idea of a good place to buy some LED's (where I don't have to buy 1000 of them).

Thanks Again, bernbrue. Can't believe you saw that backwards IC. You ended a week of confusion and stress for me.

kante1603, thank you!!! Got it. You two guys are the best. This has been the best day ever for me on this forum.

 

[bernbrue]

you are lucky that I´m building an SSL compressor for my mixing console right now and just wanted to inform myself what kind of problems other builder might have. I built one a couple of years ago  but unfortunately sold it.
I would search for ultra bright white or blue LEDs on ebay. 100 pieces for only five dollars, that´s cheap!
Bernd

 

[turk sanchez]

killer! I have 50 blue LED's on the way from Ebay...and four 300ohm, 1/4 watt resistors on the way from digikey...

I'll report back in a few days once the stuff comes in ~ really appreciate the help today!!!

 

[TheBassgasm]

Hey guys.

So I took the ICs out of my build today and measured the socket voltages without audio passing through. Everything seems fine, except for the supply voltages of the sidechain VCA.

I measured -7.9V at pin 5 and 12.8V at pin 7 on the side chain VCAs socket.  The -7.8V are a bit low, right?

 

[Ave Crux]

Hooked it up again to see if I have fixed any shorts, I cleaned the PCB and seems that it's blowing the fuses again.
The only thing I don't have hooked up yet is the meter, is that a possibility of why it's not working?
Thanks guys.

 

[Che_Guitarra]

Hi guys.  I'm in the middle of building a GSSL comp and I think i've made a boo-boo.  I'm using a PCB Gr. kit with both sidechain and turbo add-ons.  My only deviation from the standard plan is to have the turbo on full-time (ie unswitchable). 

My question - did I need to buy two sidechain boards for the turbo, or do you only need one (... I only bought one)? 

 

[TheBassgasm]

Hi guys.  I'm in the middle of building a GSSL comp and I think i've made a boo-boo.  I'm using a PCB Gr. kit with both sidechain and turbo add-ons.  My only deviation from the standard plan is to have the turbo on full-time (ie unswitchable). 

My question - did I need to buy two sidechain boards for the turbo, or do you only need one (... I only bought one)?

If you want to use the sidechain functions in (the expat, is it?) turbo mode you do have to build a second sidechain add-on.
I think I even remember it saying on the expat page.

 

[Che_Guitarra]

It's throwing me off a bit.  It says @ Expat I need a second SC board if I want to work in both Oxford or Aarhus modes (which I assume is a fancy way of saying turbo on or turbo off).   

I'm not sure whether to translate this as one being fully dedicated to each mode, or the turbo mode needs two sidechain boards regardless.  ie,  isolated summed mono peak detection for each mode, or if turbo mode flips each sidechain to a stereo pair peak detection. 

 

[Che_Guitarra]

I dug through the thread and eventually found the turbo sidechain is stereo.  And having read a bit more of this thread I think I might drop the sidechain function off completely.  Casting a net to wider forums I'm reading that, whilst potentially useful, a lot of guys don't use the feature that much in their completed units.

One thing that didn't get answered by reading all 8,784,102 pages of this thread - does the turbo mod require the sidechain to be installed?  Or does no sidechain render the turbo mod functionless?  There is an 'off' position after all... hmmm...

And sorry for my dunce questions... i'm merely a hobbyist builder.