GSSL HELP THREAD!!!

[gyraf]

Mow,

Have you looked through this thread for similar malfunctions?

Distorted when compressing usually points to missing wire link on control board. Distorted while NOT compressing could be vca or associated (5534) circuit. Shorts. Wrong value resistors.

Jakob E.

 

[Mowenw]

I've checked all of the threads one this board but have been unable to find anything of any practical use at this point.

As mentioned. There are no solder issues from what I can see and no value or orientation issues in VCA.

Did you read the entirity of my last post? Is there anything that this situation might point to more specifically?? I mean, if I have jumped the pin 1/8 and the audio path is clear would that point to non-malfunctioning opamps and maybe an issue with the 1280b?  A clear signal path would suggest there are no issues with cold solders woudn't it??

I mean, I cant go poking around aimlessly anymore. There are no solder issues, no component value/orientation issues, voltage issues,  the audio path is clear. I've triple checked everything. Is there nothing that can be said more specifically as opposed to a standard "check smart search....solder....components". Is there anywhere else i can go for more comprehensive support?

 

[G-Sun]

How do I hook up the DC-meter?

I've bought this one:
https://pcbgrinder.com/index.php?route= ... uct_id=105
together with Gustavs kit.

- Plus on DC-meter goes to? (I'll check the schemo)
- Should I use a trimpot?
- Or  a fixed resistor.
- Do minus on meter go to case? Or better to pcb somewhere?

Power led:
- I'll just use a 3mm 12V red led from 12V on pcb. No resistors needed then I suppose.

 

[Gustav]

I've checked all of the threads one this board but have been unable to find anything of any practical use at this point.

As mentioned. There are no solder issues from what I can see and no value or orientation issues in VCA.

Did you read the entirity of my last post? Is there anything that this situation might point to more specifically?? I mean, if I have jumped the pin 1/8 and the audio path is clear would that point to non-malfunctioning opamps and maybe an issue with the 1280b?  A clear signal path would suggest there are no issues with cold solders woudn't it??

I mean, I cant go poking around aimlessly anymore. There are no solder issues, no component value/orientation issues, voltage issues,  the audio path is clear. I've triple checked everything. Is there nothing that can be said more specifically as opposed to a standard "check smart search....solder....components". Is there anywhere else i can go for more comprehensive support?

The same person who was not sure how to measure voltages 3 posts ago? And after the forum members helped you do that very crucial step in the error tracing process, you are now frustrated with the level of help and looking for a place to go for "more comprehensive support"? 

Jakob just pointed out a few possible issues, which you did not report back on, so this is where I would start if I were you.  You should check the jumper mentioned, and if you only one fully working channel, you should try swapping opamps/VCAs from side to side to rule out component failure (one at a time to be systematic).

I apologise if this input to your process is not satisfactory. In that case, my suggestion would be that you find a local tech and pay him to do the trouble shooting.

Gustav

 

[Gustav]

How do I hook up the DC-meter?

I've bought this one:
https://pcbgrinder.com/index.php?route= ... uct_id=105
together with Gustavs kit.

- Plus on DC-meter goes to? (I'll check the schemo)
- Should I use a trimpot?
- Or  a fixed resistor.
- Do minus on meter go to case? Or better to pcb somewhere?

M+ and M- on control board.

Power led:
- I'll just use a 3mm 12V red led from 12V on pcb. No resistors needed then I suppose.

12V LED? I would double check that number,  but if that is the case (never heard of such an LED, but I discover new components every week still), no drop resistor is needed from the 12V aux supply.

Gustav

 

[G-Sun]

Thanks a lot Gustav!

Ah, there's the M+/M-. I just didn't see it

The meter trim-pot, is that mandatory or optional?
(Not included in your kit at least.)
If, no, then link the points?

Yes, 12V led:
http://no.farnell.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=15001&langId=47&urlRequestType=Base&partNumber=2217963&storeId=10169

 

[Gustav]

Thanks a lot Gustav!

Ah, there's the M+/M-. I just didn't see it

The meter trim-pot, is that mandatory or optional?
(Not included in your kit at least.)
If, no, then link the points?

Yes, 12V led:
http://no.farnell.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=15001&langId=47&urlRequestType=Base&partNumber=2217963&storeId=10169

Nice. 12V LED will make life easier for me for some stuff.

No need for a trimmer with the meter you're using.

Gustav

 

[Mowenw]

I've checked all of the threads one this board but have been unable to find anything of any practical use at this point.

As mentioned. There are no solder issues from what I can see and no value or orientation issues in VCA.

Did you read the entirity of my last post? Is there anything that this situation might point to more specifically?? I mean, if I have jumped the pin 1/8 and the audio path is clear would that point to non-malfunctioning opamps and maybe an issue with the 1280b?  A clear signal path would suggest there are no issues with cold solders woudn't it??

I mean, I cant go poking around aimlessly anymore. There are no solder issues, no component value/orientation issues, voltage issues,  the audio path is clear. I've triple checked everything. Is there nothing that can be said more specifically as opposed to a standard "check smart search....solder....components". Is there anywhere else i can go for more comprehensive support?

The same person who was not sure how to measure voltages 3 posts ago? And after the forum members helped you do that very crucial step in the error tracing process, you are now frustrated with the level of help and looking for a place to go for "more comprehensive support"? 

Jakob just pointed out a few possible issues, which you did not report back on, so this is where I would start if I were you.  You should check the jumper mentioned, and if you only one fully working channel, you should try swapping opamps/VCAs from side to side to rule out component failure (one at a time to be systematic).

I apologise if this input to your process is not satisfactory. In that case, my suggestion would be that you find a local tech and pay him to do the trouble shooting.

Gustav

I apologize if I appeared impatient or offensive in previous post.

I am frustrated for two reasons though. Primarily because I'm having difficulty getting this unit to function properly which is obviously completely down to me. However, I do also find it somewhat irritating that I am implored to check through smart search and to be as thorough as possible in my troubleshooting and reporting of problems and when I do that and spend hours working out how measure voltages and be as "systematic" as possible, the info I report back is not referred to in any way.

I posted my voltage measurements, which I had to work out pretty much off my own back. I still don't know if these are correct.

I have checked through the schematics and looked for solder joints and cold solders, of which I can find none.

I reported that I now have two working channels of audio but that both are distorting. So this makes the "one channel" suggestion somewhat erroneous doesn't it ?

I mentioned the fact that the audio path is clean when the pin 1/8 are jumped on the 2180 vcas. Doesn't this make the possibility of certain solder problems unlikely?

I asked if there is any likelihood of a dodgy 2180, that could have been damaged at some point during the process. No answer.

I repeat that the reason I do this is to be systematic and to offer as thorough a work through of the troubleshooting process so that it might be addressed and used to help me understand (from people who understand better than me) why certain things are not working and what the best course of action is. That way, I might avoid wasting time on quadruple checking for cold solders/wiring/voltage/solder-bridge problems.....or even avoid exacerbating the problem further by hammering the pcb and components with reflows that are unnecessary. 

I'm doing best here to be informative. I'm just asking for a response that might be a little bit more personal and less generic. Even if you tell me to check solder joints, that's cool, but it'd be nice if that were reasoned within the context of the info I've given.

Jakob has been very helpful, but as I say, when one has troubleshot and has potentially eliminated some potential problems it would be good if that were made clear.

 

[Mowenw]

Mow,

Have you looked through this thread for similar malfunctions?

Distorted when compressing usually points to missing wire link on control board. Distorted while NOT compressing could be vca or associated (5534) circuit. Shorts. Wrong value resistors.

Jakob E.

Hi Jakob,

I've checked loads of posts under the smart search(gssl distortion). None of it has really sorted out the problem.

I've listed the voltages of unpopulated ic/vca sockets above. Are these ok ?

I've put the jumper on the control board next to the meter.

Ive checked component values for the whole build. They all appear fine.

I've gone through all solder joints looking for bridges or cold solders. There appear to be none.

The unit distorts massively when in bypass mode and when in not in bypass.

I put a jumper from pin 1/8 on 2180 sockets and the audio path was clear and levels were fine.

 

[said]

Hello Genius People!

i've been wanting to post here for a long time...

i started building my GSSL long ago, and left it behind. Today, i have retake it, and as expected.. its not working and i really need help from the experts..

Heads up:

34 V AC into the board,  Rectifier Brige is working, covering it to 34V DC,

Big Capacitors (4) are showing 21 V DC

LED is working on the switches board....

i really don't know what else to measure, or where to go...

any help will be greatly appreciated!

thank you once again!

 

[said]

Here is a pic!

 

[Gustav]

Here is a pic!

You should probably link to the rest of the pics you sent me as well.

Check supply voltages on active components (check a few posts back from me to see how to (Note to self:Write a small guide on that some day for the assembly guide!))

From the pictures you sent by mail, if voltages are good, first thing I would do is undo the alternative bypass set-up and try the standard to rule that out during trouble shooting.

Hope thats a start.

Gustav

 

[tzman]

Mow,

Have you looked through this thread for similar malfunctions?

Distorted when compressing usually points to missing wire link on control board. Distorted while NOT compressing could be vca or associated (5534) circuit. Shorts. Wrong value resistors.

Jakob E.

Hi Jakob,

I've checked loads of posts under the smart search(gssl distortion). None of it has really sorted out the problem.

I've listed the voltages of unpopulated ic/vca sockets above. Are these ok ?

I've put the jumper on the control board next to the meter.

Ive checked component values for the whole build. They all appear fine.

I've gone through all solder joints looking for bridges or cold solders. There appear to be none.

The unit distorts massively when in bypass mode and when in not in bypass.

I put a jumper from pin 1/8 on 2180 sockets and the audio path was clear and levels were fine.

Your voltages appear to be ok.
Did you already receive the new THAT chip and replaced the one in the right channel? Is the left channel still working ok or is this too sounding distorted?

I know how frustrating this can be, but I also know that I've spotted wrong resistors after checking them three times. It's just very easy to overlook when you assume that it should be alright. Don't just check the colorcodes; desolder one leg and measure them. Start doing this in the VCA sections. I've had GSSL's passing clean audio with VCA PIN 1 and 8 jumpered, but still had a wring value resistor in there...

Check reply #4199 of this thread for a basic troubleshooting guide. I've got every not working GSSL working with that guide.

 

[tzman]

Hello Genius People!

i've been wanting to post here for a long time...

i started building my GSSL long ago, and left it behind. Today, i have retake it, and as expected.. its not working and i really need help from the experts..

Heads up:

34 V AC into the board,  Rectifier Brige is working, covering it to 34V DC,

Big Capacitors (4) are showing 21 V DC

LED is working on the switches board....

i really don't know what else to measure, or where to go...

any help will be greatly appreciated!

thank you once again!

What exactly is your question? "It's not working" is a bit too general...
Is it not turning on? Is it turning on but not passing audio? Is it passing audio but not compressing? Is it passing audio and compressing but no clean audio is coming out of it? Please specify you problem.

 

[Mowenw]

Mow,

Have you looked through this thread for similar malfunctions?

Distorted when compressing usually points to missing wire link on control board. Distorted while NOT compressing could be vca or associated (5534) circuit. Shorts. Wrong value resistors.

Jakob E.

Hi Jakob,

I've checked loads of posts under the smart search(gssl distortion). None of it has really sorted out the problem.

I've listed the voltages of unpopulated ic/vca sockets above. Are these ok ?

I've put the jumper on the control board next to the meter.

Ive checked component values for the whole build. They all appear fine.

I've gone through all solder joints looking for bridges or cold solders. There appear to be none.

The unit distorts massively when in bypass mode and when in not in bypass.

I put a jumper from pin 1/8 on 2180 sockets and the audio path was clear and levels were fine.

Your voltages appear to be ok.
Did you already receive the new THAT chip and replaced the one in the right channel? Is the left channel still working ok or is this too sounding distorted?

I know how frustrating this can be, but I also know that I've spotted wrong resistors after checking them three times. It's just very easy to overlook when you assume that it should be alright. Don't just check the colorcodes; desolder one leg and measure them. Start doing this in the VCA sections. I've had GSSL's passing clean audio with VCA PIN 1 and 8 jumpered, but still had a wring value resistor in there...

Check reply #4199 of this thread for a basic troubleshooting guide. I've got every not working GSSL working with that guide.

Thanks Tzman (and eveyone who has responded)....



I haven't got the new THAT chips yet. I am getting distortion from both channels now though. The left channel appears to be slightly cleaner but ye, both are crazy distorted.

Whilst on the subject, the THAT chips I received with the kit are 2180b. I assume these need the 5k1, 1k(x2) and 120R resistors in the VCA section ye? The new one's I've ordered are 2181's. Depending on the post, I've read different things regarding the 2181. Some people say they are an identical upgrade. Some people say they require a trimmer. Will I need to source some trimmers when the 2181 arrive or can I just stick them straight in with the current resistors ?

I will desolder and check resistors.

I'll also gladly check the troubleshooting guide. Does clean audio when jumping pin1/8 on 2180 sockets eliminate the possibilty of opamp failure or any other possible causes of distortion ?

Thanks again for your input.

 

[Mowenw]

How do I do this exactly ?

"Input stage: Measure both outputs of the line receivers, NE5534 pin6. They should measure the same 1V AC."

 

[tzman]

Set your multimeter to Volts AC, put the black probe to your star ground or other earth point in your GSSL and put the red probe to pin 6 of the 5534.

 

[tzman]

Mow,

Have you looked through this thread for similar malfunctions?

Distorted when compressing usually points to missing wire link on control board. Distorted while NOT compressing could be vca or associated (5534) circuit. Shorts. Wrong value resistors.

Jakob E.

Hi Jakob,

I've checked loads of posts under the smart search(gssl distortion). None of it has really sorted out the problem.

I've listed the voltages of unpopulated ic/vca sockets above. Are these ok ?

I've put the jumper on the control board next to the meter.

Ive checked component values for the whole build. They all appear fine.

I've gone through all solder joints looking for bridges or cold solders. There appear to be none.

The unit distorts massively when in bypass mode and when in not in bypass.

I put a jumper from pin 1/8 on 2180 sockets and the audio path was clear and levels were fine.

Your voltages appear to be ok.
Did you already receive the new THAT chip and replaced the one in the right channel? Is the left channel still working ok or is this too sounding distorted?

I know how frustrating this can be, but I also know that I've spotted wrong resistors after checking them three times. It's just very easy to overlook when you assume that it should be alright. Don't just check the colorcodes; desolder one leg and measure them. Start doing this in the VCA sections. I've had GSSL's passing clean audio with VCA PIN 1 and 8 jumpered, but still had a wring value resistor in there...

Check reply #4199 of this thread for a basic troubleshooting guide. I've got every not working GSSL working with that guide.

Thanks Tzman (and eveyone who has responded)....



I haven't got the new THAT chips yet. I am getting distortion from both channels now though. The left channel appears to be slightly cleaner but ye, both are crazy distorted.

Whilst on the subject, the THAT chips I received with the kit are 2180b. I assume these need the 5k1, 1k(x2) and 120R resistors in the VCA section ye? The new one's I've ordered are 2181's. Depending on the post, I've read different things regarding the 2181. Some people say they are an identical upgrade. Some people say they require a trimmer. Will I need to source some trimmers when the 2181 arrive or can I just stick them straight in with the current resistors ?

I will desolder and check resistors.

I'll also gladly check the troubleshooting guide. Does clean audio when jumping pin1/8 on 2180 sockets eliminate the possibilty of opamp failure or any other possible causes of distortion ?

Thanks again for your input.

The 2181 is NOT an drop-in replacement for the 2180. You would be better off ordering the exact same part when troubleshooting. Otherwise refer to this website for the change in resistors and added trimmer: http://diy.fischerworks.com/gssl_vca.shtml

Shorting pin 1 and pin 8 of the audio VCA and getting clean audio does not mean that your unit won't distort when putting in the VCA.

 

[Mowenw]

Well, I'm getting 0 VAC on pin 6 on both 5534's.

The resistors are fine and there are no solder bridges/cold solders.

 

[tzman]

You're getting 0VAC, but you are inserting a 0dBV (1V RMS) sine wave into the GSSL?