My bad Gustav! I had similar result... So same mistake I guess!
Damn, that Jakob / Gustav team is BANGING: fast and so efficient. You gotta love GroupDIY
Damn, that Jakob / Gustav team is BANGING: fast and so efficient. You gotta love GroupDIY
weiss said:if you can mount them and the specs are identical, why not? As far as i know, audio quality won't be affected but you have to try this
olebrom said:But I wouldn't know if the sound quality would be affected because I haven't tried with a different pot. And my ears are not that trained . But as the audio doesn't really pass thru the pot i guess I am ok?
weiss said:olebrom said:But I wouldn't know if the sound quality would be affected because I haven't tried with a different pot. And my ears are not that trained . But as the audio doesn't really pass thru the pot i guess I am ok?
Yes as it is on the control pcb. I bet you notice when it does not work like it should..
olebrom said:I made a mistake and destroyed the pot I got in my Kit from PCB-grinder. I found this one laying around :
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1718056.pdf
It is a BOURNS 93R1A-R22-A18L POTENTIOMETER, LINEAR, 50KOHM, 10%, 2W
Any reason not to use this as pot for the makeup? Will the sound quality be the same?
Thanks
Ave Crux said:Hey guys just wondering, does anybody have an FPD file for the enclosure of the GSSL? (Everything but the front panel) -- I just want to use somebody's as reference incase I mess up my holes
You define the amount of current drawn within parts limits. Without changing the value of the required current limiting resistor, using lower Vf LEDs will draw more current.thomasdf said:Hairball8027B 2 LEDs (in serie) : 5.6 - 7.6V according to Mike's website (althought I am planning on changing theses white / blue LEDs for warm yellow ones... Maybe it will draw less current)
No idea why you call these 'NKK series LB' switches 'NRG'.Bypass Switch (NRG) Led : around 2V
SC Filter Switch (NRG) Led : around 2V
Power Switch (NRG) Led : wired to the Control PCB LED's spot so this one is fine.
LEDs are NOT incandescent light bulbs. LEDs are current operated devices (not voltage). 2V (+/- parts tolerances) maybe is the forward voltage for this specific LED type and colour. Different type and/or colour will come with different parameters. At 1.95V this LED won't show up and without current limiting resistor at 2.05V this specific type of LED might already overheat and burn up. Value of current limiting resistor in ohm needed is (supply-voltage - LED-forward-voltage) / amount of current thru LED that you allow for, for example (12V - 2V)/0.01A=1000 ohm or (12V - 5.6V)/0.01A=640 ohm (the 5.6V is 2x series connected 2.8V LEDs). You don't want to exceed the LEDs forward current parameter If (might be 20mA or 30mA for your part, the parts datasheet will tell you) and you probably don't want to build a headlight, so allowing for 10mA might not be the worst idea as a starting point. This If value might further decrease with recent high efficency LED types.I was of course thinking of wiring all of these in parallel, but how should I proceed? I have a 12V DC that I can use. I was planning on doing a kick veroboard with a regulator but going from 12v to 2 will produce quite a lot of heat right?
Can I just do that by using 12V + resistors, or is there a more elegant solution?
jibiss said:Now the makeup pot DOES work.
I don't know the guide but that's how I make my jumpers. At least when I'm not using my fancy looking 0 ohm resistors (jumpers that are looking like resistors).Ave Crux said:can I simply use the snipped off leads of the resistors and just solder them to how it's shown in the photo?
Does it have 4 connectors? If yes, two of them are for lighting.Ave Crux said:Also, I ordered the 1ma DC Meter in PCBGrinder and I still am not sure if it lights up when hooked up. I've seen videos that seems like it lights up in a blue colour, but I looked at the meter today and seems like there's no kind of lamp inside..?
sonicwarrior said:I don't know the guide but that's how I make my jumpers. At least when I'm not using my fancy looking 0 ohm resistors (jumpers that are looking like resistors).Ave Crux said:can I simply use the snipped off leads of the resistors and just solder them to how it's shown in the photo?
Does it have 4 connectors? If yes, two of them are for lighting.Ave Crux said:Also, I ordered the 1ma DC Meter in PCBGrinder and I still am not sure if it lights up when hooked up. I've seen videos that seems like it lights up in a blue colour, but I looked at the meter today and seems like there's no kind of lamp inside..?
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