GSSL SuperSC board

[Harpo]

Front panel is 0.125" (from par metal aluminum/steel im thinking of getting)

This panel thickness would be the min.length required for your LED holder of whatever material,shape,diameter,... you find eye pleasing. This is a more aesthetic than technical decision.

1 - bout led holders... id get the cheap parts too but im not sure which parts i need!! at the moment i was tryingto simplify on part numbers and mistakes to be made.... i think they are too expensive too and possibly not mounting the LEDs on the front pannel and just need the 2 holders for the meter illumination. was thinking of mounting them with these expensive boys too but if u know a better way id be very interested in knowing how to!!

2 - ok now that u are saying about resistors for the bypass sw; i got my power sw also with illumination. On the outside of the switch it says:

5.5A 250V AC
13A 125V AC
its toggle switch kinda behaviour and supposedly has an led inside but i dont know more about it.
with this information, does this work as my power sw??  does it need any resistors?? if not what kind of switch should i get for power?

So all your LEDs are already mounted (inside the meter or inside the switch(es)). No further LED holder needed.
Power switch rating looks OK. The LED is only built inside the switch with on further inside connection to the switch. You have to supply the solder lugs for LED connection at the switch yourself with the correct voltage, current and polarity. If this specific switch already has a LED built in, but you don't know any data, first assume NO resistor already built in, so connect this LED to the '"power On" LED' spot at the control pcb. When your GSSL is switched on by this AC mains switch, the transformer scales the AC mains voltage down. This voltage gets rectified, smoothed and regulated and will supply the LED from the +12V DC rail with current limiting resistor 1k already on pcb in between. If a resistor of unknown value is already built in inside the switch, this would be in series with prementioned 1k resistor and brightness might appear too dim, so you could decrease this 1k value within parts limits. (or measure and calculate the value needed, using ohms law).

 

[ptron]

ok so for the power sw... it only has the 3 lugs behind it for the "sp" and the "dt", but i dont see anywhere that says anode cathode or + - .. am a bit confused on where and how to plug the led inside. Do i have to plug the switch as a normal power switch and then on top of that the "power LED", that comes from the ctrl pcb, on the same lugs too? .. i think with the machine infront of me  it will all make sense

thanks for your help harpo .. im sure ill find some other tings to bother u with in the near future

killaaa!! most packages are about to arrive this week or the next!! gettin anxious!

patricio

 

[Harpo]

So this switch does not come with an LED. Might be a mains powered neon, if it is illuminated at all. In any case, never connect any DC lead to AC mains.
For bypass you changed your mind in favour of the NKK HB series switch. Your previous quoted KB series switch has high enough rated contacts for mains voltage as well.

 

[ptron]

1 - so basically the switch i got for power wont work? i dont mind if it dont light up i just want it to switch on and off i can put the "power on" LED anyways and that will do for a light show ...   ;D

2 - btw the switch for the ssc.. sp8t do i get the non shorting or shorting type? i picked non shorting like the rest of my rotarys but who knows maybe i shouldve asked this before  ???

im choosing the knobs now... hard work!!! i want the expensive ones always    all my pots and switches are 6mm shaft (i think all are serrated except one Dshaft) ..
my questions about the knobs   ;D
3 - if i got 6mm shaft 1/4 inch fits? or i need the 6mm and nothing more?

4- if i get knobs like this ones http://mx.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=PKES60B1/4virtualkey50660000virtualkey506-PKES60B1/4 (with little screws to fix in place).. can i get THEM for all my controls regardless if its dshaft or serrated switch?

now LED`s..

5- harpo; u said earlier that all my LEDs are already mounted on switches and meter.. but i thought i still needed some sort of contraption to connect LED`s from the pcb "meter illumination" to the meter. i thought i needed this sortof led mounting wire to put LED`s behind my meter. and attatch em there .. do i?

6 -i read from one post around here that all the led`s should have its resistor independently, so if i want to connect 2 LED for my meter should i put them both going out of the "meter LED" hole from the SSC board each one with its own resistor? or can i just connect straight LED with no resistors? (if the answer is "yes i can connect one LED with no resistors there"... my question is.. can i connect 2? or should i plug just one there and other to 15v and use kinda 1k ohm 1/4w resistor like u said earlier?) maybe i can do some cool color mixing there  8)


thanks!!

 

[Harpo]

1 - so basically the switch i got for power wont work? i dont mind if it dont light up i just want it to switch on and off i can put the "power on" LED anyways and that will do for a light show ...   ;D

switching power with this whatever switch will work (dunno about mexican safety rules, only switching life allowed, or a needed double pole switch for switching life and neutral obligatory). Switch illumination might be mains powered. You won't need the "power on" LED (redundantly/hopefully displaying the same status as the neon? inside your mains switch, also you know the GSSL is on when the meter illumination lights up.)

2 - btw the switch for the ssc.. sp8t do i get the non shorting or shorting type? i picked non shorting like the rest of my rotarys but who knows maybe i shouldve asked this before  ???

non shorting.

im choosing the knobs now... hard work!!! i want the expensive ones always    all my pots and switches are 6mm shaft (i think all are serrated except one Dshaft) ..
my questions about the knobs   ;D
3 - if i got 6mm shaft 1/4 inch fits? or i need the 6mm and nothing more?

A 6.35mm knob will operate with a 6mm shaft, but the shaft will be alligned to the opposite side of the fixing screw, resulting in an eggwise, 0.35mm off center rotation. You can get adapters (piece of slotted pipe) for a tighter fit. Using 6mm knobs in the first place would be easier.

4- if i get knobs like this ones http://mx.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=PKES60B1/4virtualkey50660000virtualkey506-PKES60B1/4 (with little screws to fix in place).. can i get THEM for all my controls regardless if its dshaft or serrated switch?

Temporary mount the knob to the dshaft to get the angle for a solid fix before soldering a lorlin type switch to the pcb. The switches are built symetrical. Filling the gap between Dshaft and knob with a piece of whatever handy might further help, if the fixing screw is not long enough.

now LED`s..
5- harpo; u said earlier that all my LEDs are already mounted on switches and meter.. but i thought i still needed some sort of contraption to connect LED`s from the pcb "meter illumination" to the meter. i thought i needed this sortof led mounting wire to put LED`s behind my meter. and attatch em there .. do i?

the mains switch obviously not . Dunno what meter you have. The behringer BE4x style meters, member Ptownkid is selling already seem to come with LEDs. Other meters might come with optional illumination kit for LEDs or (powerhungry) inscandescent lamps.

6 -i read from one post around here that all the led`s should have its resistor independently, so if i want to connect 2 LED for my meter should i put them both going out of the "meter LED" hole from the SSC board each one with its own resistor? or can i just connect straight LED with no resistors? (if the answer is "yes i can connect one LED with no resistors there"... my question is.. can i connect 2? or should i plug just one there and other to 15v and use kinda 1k ohm 1/4w resistor like u said earlier?) maybe i can do some cool color mixing there  8)

Not neccessarily. You can power a series string of LEDs with same current and a single resistor. Advantage is, the resistor has less voltage to drop so less power is wasted/transfered to heat. Disadvantage is, if one day 1 LED fails open, all LEDs are dark, if this LED fails short, parts limits for the remaining ones in the series string might get exceeded. With a resistor per each LED you can individually and within parts limits adjust LEDs brightness, especially for a mixed colour config. Disadvantage is parts count/cost/space and generated heat. Pick your poison.
Resistors (2x 1k2) for LEDs in Bryans BE4x meters are already on ssc-pcb. Resistor rating and value would not fit for an inscandescent illumination config.

 

[ptron]

my meters are third world meters made in mexico proudly  ;D  but with no illumination kits or anything i thought of addapting a couple of leds in the back of the meter with those mounting contraptions (no filters) and like u said adjust brightness

1 -is that a good idea?
2 - should i hook these up on my "meter LED" on the SSC board ?
3 - if so... i see only one set of + / - there, should i go on paralell with the 2 leds? im not sure i understand the details on how to wire em properly


and unrelated topic...
4 - will this trafo work with my setup??
http://www.steren.com.mx/catalogo/interior3.asp?pdto=TR18-1.2A

thanks a lot !! 

 

[Harpo]

my meters are third world meters made in mexico proudly  ;D  but with no illumination kits or anything i thought of addapting a couple of leds in the back of the meter with those mounting contraptions (no filters) and like u said adjust brightness

1 -is that a good idea?
2 - should i hook these up on my "meter LED" on the SSC board ?
3 - if so... i see only one set of + / - there, should i go on paralell with the 2 leds? im not sure i understand the details on how to wire em properly

as long as they are about 1mA meters
1 - DIY is a good idea
2 - yes
3 - series ... + --->|--->|---  -

4 - will this trafo work with my setup??
http://www.steren.com.mx/catalogo/interior3.asp?pdto=TR18-1.2A

No. This is a 18VAC center tapped transformer. You want a 30VAC center tapped or a 2x 15VAC transformer.
Something like amveco TE62053-ND, http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=US&WT.z_afil_site=mx&WT.z_afil_link=hp_go_button&KeyWords=TE62053-ND&x=17&y=15

 

[ptron]

hehe thanks a lot man! u encourage me to keep going

yes theyre 1mA meters Femsa is the make ill post some pics tomorow or the day after theyre pretty nice and cheap about 18 usd ... still have failed on changing the mA scale for gain reduction one but will find a way eventually i just dont want to bend the needles cus they look fragile

ill see tomorow if digikey ships to mexico and how much that would be !! the transformer is the last one component im missing

thanks for the explanations and your patience! will surely come back with more random questions but found few courses on electronics online and think this might help understanding a bit better ... i really need them  :

wel.....  couldnt go without one question at least!! someone told me i should use silver composite solder for audio circuits but few people have told me its insane what im saying... is this true? what kind of solder should i use for this circuit or how should i ask for it?

thanks again!

patricio

 

[Harpo]

someone told me i should use silver composite solder for audio circuits but few people have told me its insane what im saying... is this true? what kind of solder should i use for this circuit or how should i ask for it?

Wanna go into jewlery? No excessive heat expected and the fraction of milliohm lower resistance will vanish in parts values used.
Leaded solder wire Sn60Pb40 with flux core will do and is easier to handle. Something like mouser #590-4894-227G. (this probably will be enough for your next 500 GSSLs)

 

[ptron]

u legend thanks so much!! hehe and no, im not going into jewlery    just listened to a wonky polish engineer that told me this and payed too much attention
thanks for clearing that up !

cheerioos!

 

[ptron]

kkk so the transformer i found has this specs :

Open Toroidal Transformer,2x0-15,30VA  it has central tap  i think... is this one ok harpo?  : its from RS. # 540-5185 (this one can take 220 and 110 i just got to adapt a spdt toggle switch between the fuse and the transformer i think)...
is this one ok for my setup?

the one u told me would work .... (digikey TE62053-ND).... i see it is dual primary but has no central tap (thats what it says down the chart) is this ok? it would be better to get DIGIKEY`s one cus shipping will be cheaper from usa than spain for sure and faster! so if this one is definitley the one i need ill get them bad boys tomorow !! ;D

u know if i can do the same thing  (110 - 220 V mains voltage) with these trafos with a switch ?

whoops the crc board topic went down the forum page so ill ask here too!

is this bridge rectifier for the crc board ok ?
Mouser #: 625-W005G-E4
Mfr. #: W005G-E4/51
Manufacturer: Vishay
Desc.: Bridge Rectifiers 1.5 Amp 50 Volt

i think this is my last question untill i actually start puttin it all together .. tomorow i will do the last orders and will be a matter of waiting untill all the pcbs and components are here  8)  

harpo thanks again for all your help with my doubts u rock mate!! i understand ur explanations better than my friends' ( and they explain in spanish  ??? )

 ;D

 

[Harpo]

Ptron, the transformer from RS will work. This has dual secondaries as well, but joining the red and orange secondary winding lead will give you just that center tap connection.
Dunno what your usual mexican AC mains voltage is. If it is ~115V, connect both primary windings in parallel by joining blue with violet and gray with brown. If it is ~230V, connect the primary windings in series by joining gray with violet and isolating this further not needed junction so it never could make contact to your case.
When bolting your toroidal transformer to your case, make sure the end of the fixing bolt never makes contact to the case lid. This would make a shorted secondary winding that will kill your primary winding. 

The bridge rectifier will work as well.

Both not SSC related questions/answers seem better placed in the official GSSL help thread.
You might update your profile with your location data to better help others helping you.
Sorry for not replying in spanish.

 

[ptron]

ah sorry about the unrelatedness of my questions  ;D  :-[

1- what should i do about it? should i grab this post and the last one and put it all on the GSSLHELP thread?

Ptron, the transformer from RS will work. This has dual secondaries as well, but joining the red and orange secondary winding lead will give you just that center tap connection.
Dunno what your usual mexican AC mains voltage is. If it is ~115V, connect both primary windings in parallel by joining blue with violet and gray with brown. If it is ~230V, connect the primary windings in series by joining gray with violet and isolating this further not needed junction so it never could make contact to your case.
When bolting your toroidal transformer to your case, make sure the end of the fixing bolt never makes contact to the case lid. This would make a shorted secondary winding that will kill your primary winding. 

2 -so in this case you are talking about the RS transformer or about the DIGIKEY transformer?
my question... i was told with the RS one i could just make a simple toggle switch to connect on either one or the other mains voltage and i`d like my comps to have that choice in case it goes abroad u never know ...
is that possible with both?

thanks !

ps.. about spanish replies hehe cheers man! but tbh i prefer in english i think i get it more like this cus all my tutorials and all i have read and heard is in english

8)  finally got the quote thing!!

 

[Harpo]

1- what should i do about it? should i grab this post and the last one and put it all on the GSSLHELP thread?

Keep it, but having a thread a little sorted isn't a bad idea. YMMV.

2 -so in this case you are talking about the RS transformer or about the DIGIKEY transformer?
my question... i was told with the RS one i could just make a simple toggle switch to connect on either one or the other mains voltage and i`d like my comps to have that choice in case it goes abroad u never know ...
is that possible with both?

My colour coding from last reply refers to the RS transformer. The Digikey one will operate the same, didn't look up its colour coding again.
Switching between 115V or 230V AC mains might be done like this little drawing. A maybe DPDT toggle switch should NOT be accessible at the case front- or backpanel. Accidently switching a 230V connected box for 115V mains will blow more than only the transformer. You will have to change the fuse for the different rating as well.

 

[ptron]

man i will inscribe the harpo name somewhere in those compressors in your honour ! u legend!!!!  thanks so much for taking the time to help me (and not just me) all of us noobs get on with it!!

in my head im thinking ill try the 115 - 220 switch but if i find myself in a big mess of wires ill do the simple way  ;D

just other thing.. u were saying about when bolting transformer to case... which one is the fixing bolt? im not sure i understand that bit but i sure want to before i plug anything to mains 

thanks a lot harpo

 

[Harpo]

just other thing.. u were saying about when bolting transformer to case... which one is the fixing bolt? im not sure i understand that bit but i sure want to before i plug anything to mains 

From your last posts, you are going to order a toroidal transformer. This toroid get fixed by a single bolt thru the case ground, isolation washer, transformer, maybe another isolation washer, washer, hex nut on top. If this fixing bolt is too long or whatever might drop on top of your case and bedns the case lid inwards, the tip of this bolt might touch the case lid. As the metal case, probably 1HE 19", is conductive, this will make another secondary winding (its only 1 turn and unfortunately shorted). Your mains powered toroid will try to transform this by its mains-winding:1-turn ratio and the required current of a shorted/low ohm secondary, and doing so will blow its primary winding, as this transformer is not build for this excessive current demand.

 

[ptron]

im going for 19" 2u u reckn its still too tight?

;D safe man thanks a lot

 

[Harpo]

Both 1HE or 2HE will fit, just know your enemy and maybe cut the bolt to length if so required.

 

[ptron]

hehe now considering all i probably will order in digikey is going to be cheaper shipment and faster too!  ;D

going to go for that digikey transformer u suggested (i always wanted something acme brand since i saw roadrunner and coyote )

i hope pcbs arrive soon! thanks a lot harpo 

 

[ptron]

one question.. if i want the external sidechain to be 2 mono 1/4 jacks.. should i plug 0v just in paralell from the board with 2 separate wires? one to each jack`s sleeve

;D going to a local supplier now for the pannelmount thingys and last but not least parts !!

cheerios